What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

lifted and discouraged

R

rbk587

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2005
Posts
46
Reaction score
0
Location
brandon ms
ok guys another episode of my 87 k-5.i just put a new 6" lift on the old girl,blocks back and springs front.everything looks great and went on with some trouble but nothing i couldnt handle.the problem is now i have a terrible vibration coming from somewhere.i thought i was a u-joint because of the symtoms but after replacing them it still there.on start off acceleration it vibrates but once moving does not but when i let off the gas a grinding noise starts but then stops if i let my foot completely off....any suggestions?
 
rbk587 said:
ok guys another episode of my 87 k-5.i just put a new 6" lift on the old girl,blocks back and springs front.everything looks great and went on with some trouble but nothing i couldnt handle.the problem is now i have a terrible vibration coming from somewhere.i thought i was a u-joint because of the symtoms but after replacing them it still there.on start off acceleration it vibrates but once moving does not but when i let off the gas a grinding noise starts but then stops if i let my foot completely off....any suggestions?
Click to expand...

yea, your pinion angle is wrong
drop yer t-case and it will be gone (the "easy" fix)
 
It wouldn't be wasted time to check the pinion nut and make sure it isn't loose.

What you need to do is match the angle of the rear pinion to the angle of the transfer case output. An angle finder is the proper tool and pretty cheap. Just because the lift block is tapered doesn't mean the taper is correct. It would be different for every wheelbase (K5, short box, extended cab, etc.) so they don't know. It's also possible (i.e. likely) that your driveshaft is now too short. A marginal slip-yoke can get really bad when it's not engaging all the way.

Another question... 6" blocks?
 
Blue85 said:
It wouldn't be wasted time to check the pinion nut and make sure it isn't loose.

What you need to do is match the angle of the rear pinion to the angle of the transfer case output. An angle finder is the proper tool and pretty cheap. Just because the lift block is tapered doesn't mean the taper is correct. It would be different for every wheelbase (K5, short box, extended cab, etc.) so they don't know. It's also possible (i.e. likely) that your driveshaft is now too short. A marginal slip-yoke can get really bad when it's not engaging all the way.

Another question... 6" blocks?
Click to expand...
yeah a friend of a friend that works for a powertrain place said it would ride better than a full suspension lift
 
ok guys my bad,you would be correct on the blocks but actually i jus said 6" lift, blocks back and springs front
 
hey stumpbuster,when i click on that link what am i looking for?or maybe that was you vendor.trying to work and diagnose is a doozy
 
Last edited:
stumpbuster said:
suspension kits always come 2" lower in rear for level, so 4" blox
Click to expand...

That's not true, with a Blazer we typically use an inch HIGHER in the rear to make it sit level.

Typically when a 6" lift uses a 4" block in the rear it also comes with an add a leaf to get the rest of the height.

stumpbuster said:
says the vendor:D

yea thats the expensive and "hard" way

there are a few ways...
i jus simply gave him 1
Click to expand...

We don't sell driveshafts ;)

It's the only way to eliminate them, you can play with angles like the link I posted but with a 6" lifted Blazer you'll never get rid of all of it without a cv driveshaft.

For the angle stuff, go to 4xshaft.com and click on the tech section. There is lots of good info in there.
 
i have installed several 6" kits and they all came with either 4" or 5.5" blocks in the rear.
i still have the 5.5" ones from my brothers pro comp lift.

now that i think about it, my 3.5" blocks under the k5 came with a 6" kit

DONT drop the t-case.

fix it right, adjust the rear shaft angle and get a c.v. shaft
 
Last edited:
How far is your slip yoke sticking out of the transfer case?

When they say that the problem can only be fixed with a C/V shaft, it means that the C/V is the 100% cure. There are a lot of other things that can help and maybe get the vibrations 75% gone. It's your choice based on your budget and priorities.

Shimming the rear pinion angle is cheap and adjusting the transfer case height might be free. If you're trying to save cash you can go through this process - or as temporary measures while you shop for shafts. If you find that the slip-yoke needs replacement and the shaft needs to be lengthened, think very carefully about spending more money on that setup and look again at the cost of the C/V shaft. Sometimes a couple replacement parts and rework of the driveshaft costs almost as much as buying a new one. But you can't do anything here until you've taken some measurements.

If you really want to fix it right the first time, skip over the rest and buy the C/V shaft right away. I dinked around with a standard shaft for several years and finally ended up buying the C/V anyway. For trail only or something with open headers or boggers, a little driveline vibration is no big deal.
 
ok guys one quick question....a mechanic told me to do what one of yall said bout lowering the t-case.he said jus have some blocks made to lower and rebolt but another has told me that will not work.then i was told to get wedges to go between the springs and the lifting block,im at a loss as to what to do
 
1BEATK5 said:
i have installed several 6" kits and they all came with either 4" or 5.5" blocks in the rear.
i still have the 5.5" ones from my brothers pro comp lift.

now that i think about it, my 3.5" blocks under the k5 came with a 6" kit

DONT drop the t-case.

fix it right, adjust the rear shaft angle and get a c.v. shaft
Click to expand...
by jimmers you jus might be right just spend the money on the c.v.shaft and be done with it
 
Actually, you still have to shim the rear end, just the other direction. For the C/V shaft, the pinion should point at the T-case.
 
Honestly, there is nothing you can do until you go out and make some measurements. There is no point buying parts, doing more work or wasting our time here until you know where it's at. Have you picked up an angle finder yet?

You can try the T-case drop for $0 and a few minutes work. There are bolt spacers in there stock. Just swap their position to lower the T-case like 3/4" or 1" If you want this for a permanent solution, then get some blocks made.
 
rbk587 said:
ok guys one quick question....a mechanic told me to do what one of yall said bout lowering the t-case.he said jus have some blocks made to lower and rebolt but another has told me that will not work.then i was told to get wedges to go between the springs and the lifting block,im at a loss as to what to do
Click to expand...


yea that was me...
then everyone beat the crap outta me for sayin it
done it b4 numerouse times
costs zero bux
fixes prollem
yes, not the ideal way, but easy as hell
wtf:whistle:
 
i had some good vibs on my rig with just 2 1/2" of lift. i "think" i used 6* shims out back and dropped the transfer case about 5/8" with a small plate. had no issues after that.

i thought a 6" lift needed a longer shaft too.....slip yoke eliminator and cv shaft would be ideal for a road truck.....as has been said already.


Double_Cardan_driveshaft.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom