k5blazer454justin
Registered Member
i am looking for advice on how to do a 12 inch lift the correct why i need to know what changes i need to make what my pinion angles should be stuff like that looking forward to any ideas thanks 
CK5
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lifting advice
- Thread starter k5blazer454justin
- Start date
stumpbuster
1/2 ton status
superlift makes 12" leafs
go nuts
tire size ya wanna run?
...it all stems from there
go nuts
tire size ya wanna run?
...it all stems from there
Dont' take it personal but you might get some heat about the 12" lift. The current trend is low lift w/ big tires and trimming til they fit. Surely someone will chme in and say 12" is unsafe and you'll kill yourself and everyone within a 10 mile radius. 
stumpbuster
1/2 ton status
Dont' take it personal but you might get some heat about the 12" lift. The current trend is low lift w/ big tires and trimming til they fit. Surely someone will chme in and say 12" is unsafe and you'll kill yourself and everyone within a 10 mile radius.
absolutely
unless he is runnin jus mud,
another thing of course to consider is axles, cuz i dont think he gunna be wantin ta run 33's
The right way to do a 12" lift:
12" front springs
8" rear springs, 2.5" shackle flip, 6" shackle
Forget about making the stock steering work, you'll need crossover
Getting a front driveshaft to work can be tough, moving the front axle forward can help, as can moving the t-case back (i.e. doubler), turning the pinion up isn't generally a good idea because it removes the caster in the front end and will make it steer poorly (unless you cut and turn the inner c's).
That's about it, just lengthen driveline, use longer brakelines and get shocks to match.
12" front springs
8" rear springs, 2.5" shackle flip, 6" shackle
Forget about making the stock steering work, you'll need crossover
Getting a front driveshaft to work can be tough, moving the front axle forward can help, as can moving the t-case back (i.e. doubler), turning the pinion up isn't generally a good idea because it removes the caster in the front end and will make it steer poorly (unless you cut and turn the inner c's).
That's about it, just lengthen driveline, use longer brakelines and get shocks to match.
86chevyk10
1/2 ton status
Start with a 4 inch rough country lift with 8 inch blocks up front and fab up some 12 blocks for the rear. Oh and a body lift would help too. JK....just don't do it, you'll thank us later. So many downfalls of that large of a lift its not even funny! Just remember a sawzall is your best friend on a lift kit.
stumpbuster
1/2 ton status
this dewd gotta chime in here and let us all know the infamous Q "what size rubber we talkin here?"
k5blazer454justin
Registered Member
I want to at least run 40s, I dont want to trim any of the fender wells. I just finished the body work.
stumpbuster
1/2 ton status
only need 8" lift
that what i gots runnin 40's
btw the only reason i can get away with runnin these sneakers is cuz i sprung for 1tons..
only need 8" lift
that what i gots runnin 40's
btw the only reason i can get away with runnin these sneakers is cuz i sprung for 1tons..
Those fenders look like they've been trimmed
stumpbuster
1/2 ton status
yes i trimmed a little, and i mean an obvious VERY little last year, but was running untouched for awhile. i was more showing the fact that 40's can clear with just an 8" lift and not a 12"
I have a friend that had a 81 Chevy that ran 39's on a 12" lift with uncut fenders. It was a little tall but had a nice look and didn't rub the fenders. Imo, anything bigger than 39's with virgin fenders will require trimming or a body lift, even with a 12" lift.
40's with an 8" lift unless they are very narrow and tucked in will still rub with STOCK fenders! Maybe not driving straight but turning and going through rain dips or speedbumps. if the suspension moves up they will still rub.
My 33x14.50 rub on 6" of lift if I hit a good dip in a corner. Ran 12.50 37's on a 6" and they rubbed turning if I hit any bump.
Bottom line is these fenders are not very big. To run tires 40+ you either have to cut some, or lift it high, or deal with smooshed fender lips from the rubbing where you would have cut anyway.
The picture above. No you didnt trim much BUT you did trim where the tire WOULD rub. Its a little trim to us, but realisticly looking at that pic you cut 2'3" back from the stock lines.
If you drive straight all the time, or ensure the suspension has no up travel then you might be ok with a bit lower lift, but IMO unless you lift it to the point the tires are out of the wheel wells tires that big will rub.
As posted earlier the popular theme around here is low and cut so you are going to get lots of "i ran 40's 42's etc with 4-5-6 inches and was fine, but to the OP if you are not willing to trim some then plan on spending some coin to get it high and keep driveshafts and steering working properly. Don't forget larger axles and much deeper gearing to make it functional.
Just my .02
My 33x14.50 rub on 6" of lift if I hit a good dip in a corner. Ran 12.50 37's on a 6" and they rubbed turning if I hit any bump.
Bottom line is these fenders are not very big. To run tires 40+ you either have to cut some, or lift it high, or deal with smooshed fender lips from the rubbing where you would have cut anyway.
The picture above. No you didnt trim much BUT you did trim where the tire WOULD rub. Its a little trim to us, but realisticly looking at that pic you cut 2'3" back from the stock lines.
If you drive straight all the time, or ensure the suspension has no up travel then you might be ok with a bit lower lift, but IMO unless you lift it to the point the tires are out of the wheel wells tires that big will rub.
As posted earlier the popular theme around here is low and cut so you are going to get lots of "i ran 40's 42's etc with 4-5-6 inches and was fine, but to the OP if you are not willing to trim some then plan on spending some coin to get it high and keep driveshafts and steering working properly. Don't forget larger axles and much deeper gearing to make it functional.
Just my .02
^^^ What Chris said, or start experimenting with 6-8" lift 52" springs, but with the added suspension travel you will gain over 12" springs you'll open another can of worms trying to keep the tires and the sheetmetal friends.
X13!
What are your plans for the rest of the drivetrain? BB/TH400 is a good start
Just make sure everything else in between 40-44's and a 454 will live.
B-52 kit (diy4x) ez inches, (diy4x) 6" lift rear springs (52"), longer shackles, thats for the front. Should be right around 12
For the rear I would say a shackle flip kit and 8" springs.
then a 3" body lift,
Or you could get 8" 52s for the front but that would get you around 14 with all the stuff listed above.
Its not going to be cheap. You might want to look into a custom 4 link with coils too.
Even though I am not a mudrunner, If I built a big truck (more than 6" of lift) this is what I would do
If you listen to all the advice you get on here you will end up with a huge truck that will actually go down the road pretty darn good.
Driveshafts and cutting and turning the 60 (lets hope you have tons) have already been mentioned
For the rear I would say a shackle flip kit and 8" springs.
then a 3" body lift,
Or you could get 8" 52s for the front but that would get you around 14 with all the stuff listed above.
Its not going to be cheap. You might want to look into a custom 4 link with coils too.
Even though I am not a mudrunner, If I built a big truck (more than 6" of lift) this is what I would do
If you listen to all the advice you get on here you will end up with a huge truck that will actually go down the road pretty darn good.
Driveshafts and cutting and turning the 60 (lets hope you have tons) have already been mentioned
38377k5 mentioned a couple of details you must not overlook -
#1) steering: crossover style steering (like the kit offered by ORD) will work far better than the factory push pull type.
#2) driveshafts: be prepared to spend alot of money here
#3) brakes: nothing special here, just be sure you have good parts from the beginning. Stopping a big truck can get scary if everything is not in good working order.
These are items that need just as much attention (if not more) as the lift. When it's finished, obvious safety concerns aside, if it doesn't drive well you'll hate it.
#1) steering: crossover style steering (like the kit offered by ORD) will work far better than the factory push pull type.
#2) driveshafts: be prepared to spend alot of money here
#3) brakes: nothing special here, just be sure you have good parts from the beginning. Stopping a big truck can get scary if everything is not in good working order.
These are items that need just as much attention (if not more) as the lift. When it's finished, obvious safety concerns aside, if it doesn't drive well you'll hate it.
k5blazer454justin
Registered Member
i really dont want to trim. i am going with a 454 with a th400 trans what rear should i run
14BFF is common, cheap, and an easy bolt in affair.
k5blazer454justin
Registered Member
where can i find a 14 bolt at
14Bbolt full floaters come in alot of 3/4 tons Chevy pickups. Get the full floater if you can. Also come in 1 ton chevy's. You probably won't find that one as easily. Spring perch is narrower on the one ton so not as simple of a bolt in job. 3/4 tons have the same spring perch spacing as 1/2 tons.
I'm assuming you have a 1/2 ton pickup.
