thats a pretty typical rust spot... if you can get a nice plate welded there, that would work fine. make sure you spray down the surrounding area with some sort of sealant like some primer or something. (It doesnt need to look pretty.. its under carpet.) Hey, body lifts are ok, but always do suspension if you possibly can. with something like a 3" body lift (which is what you would most likely need to clear those 33s) you get a few issues, and its not as much of a "saturday afternoon job" as some people make it seem. For instance, your tranny shifter arm will need to have at least a 2" extension welded at the end of it so that you can get into all your gears. sometimes people have issues with the transfer case shifting linkage, your radiator is moved above the fan, thus potentially creating some cooling issues, you get a little more frame flex, and besides, it kinda makes your bumper levels look awkward, unless you spend the extra money to have them lifted and/or get tubulars and whatnot. If at all possible get a 2.5" or 4" suspension lift. for the kind of driving you'll be doing (mild trails when youre hunting) you can use blocks in the rear with no problem. for a 2.5" you could easily go all block in the rear and for a 4" you could do the same or go with a combination block/add-a-leaf. youre always going to want to get new springs for all the lift in the front, regardless of the lift. yes, for any suspension application you will need new u-bolts and harware, as well as some longer shocks. the raised steering arm isnt too expensive ($60 or so) and you shouldnt worry about any added stress on steering parts. (after all you said you werent going to be doing any rock crawling or anything.) As far as driveshafts go, for good measure on either lift, you should drop your transfer case about an 1"-1 1/2". hey, hope I could help, and good luck. if you have any questions, Ill check back...
