CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

lighting wiring

85k5blzr

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 10, 2001
Posts
103
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston, Texas
I just bought a procomp 100w 6"x9" light set and i was wondering how to hook it up. I have laready run the wires, i jsut don't know how to wire it into the fuse block. How do you know where to run the wire and what kind of fuse to use? It comes with one but in the "revised directions" it doesn't use it. please help. sorry i am an amateur at this and don't want to fry something.

85 k5 blazer with an old 305....must have more power!
crazy.gif
 
Go straight to the battery, your fuse block won't handle it. Well it could but you'd have to up one of the original fuses you rob it off of. There is an accesory plug but that runs off the dome light circut. I would run a direct lead off the battery. I took an 8 gauge wire ran it to the battery and fused it at the end with a 30 amp fuse. Then I ran through some of that plastic tubing into my firewall. Just pop out the plug where the spedometer cable goes and run the cables through their and use a bushing around the hole (may not be the best if you go through deep water but it works great for me). Then I ran the lead to my switches inside the cab (each switch is also fused with 20 amp fuses). The wires going to my lights from the switches are hidden behind my door trim and pop up by the hard top. I cracked the hard top and ran the wires through the gap and closed it. I used a little black silicone to keep out moisture. Its a good fit for 12 gauge wire but anything bigger might be trouble. I also run my CB from the power lead running into the cab so thus the overkill in wiring. All totaled it runs the CB, and 4 150W KC Daylighters and the power lead runs as cool as cucumber. Its funny to listen to my engine at idle when I turn the lights on, she drags a little cause of the stock altenatot.

Two lanes wide, twelve yards long, sixty-five tons of American pride....Canyanero!
 
THat sounds so simple compared to my setup. THe procomp has this little power box (forgot what its called) where you run a wire from the battery, a wire from the switch, a wire to the lights themselves and a ground. The switch is grounded and has the lead going to the little box, but it says that it has to have power from the fuze box and doesn't use the fuze supplied in the diagram?!?!

85 k5 blazer with an old 305....must have more power!
crazy.gif
 
THat sounds so simple compared to my setup. THe procomp has this little power box (forgot what its called) where you run a wire from the battery, a wire from the switch, a wire to the lights themselves and a ground. The switch is grounded and has the lead going to the little box, but it says that it has to have power from the fuze box and doesn't use the fuze supplied with the kit, at least it isn't shown in the diagram?!?!

85 k5 blazer with an old 305....must have more power!
crazy.gif
 
I believe thats your relay. I had to totally rebuild my KC's so I didnt get one. KC's use them for the option of wiring them to your headlight switch. The purpose is that you dont draw all the power from your little headlight switch, it just uses a tiny bit of power to kick over the relay and start drawing power off the battery. It sounds like they gave you that relay so your switches dont take the brunt. Just run that lead to the battery lead to battery as labeled. The fuse box should only be used for low power stuff like gauges and such. How many lights do you have total so we can figure out how to get you fused. You don't wanna skimp on the fuses, alot cheaper than a char-grilled truck.

Two lanes wide, twelve yards long, sixty-five tons of American pride....Canyanero!
 
the switch is what wants to have power from the fuze box, i am guessing as you said to kick over the relay, becuase the relay is connected directly to the battery. So i should put the fuze that came with the kit in between the battery and the relay? and just find some place to wire in the switch ?

85 k5 blazer with an old 305....must have more power!
crazy.gif
 
You shouldn't use any less than 12 gauge wire drawing current directly from the battery. You're also going to want to put in a 15 amp fuse no more than 18" from the battery. Considering the "quality" of most switches on the market, I'd also power the switch (to the relay) from the fuse block to prevent losing the switch. Mine is fed from the courtesy light fuse.
 
The use of the relay also depends on the mounting position of your lights. If you mont them in the front use the relay. That way the Hi current wires will be shorter (less resistance = more light). As for wiring the relay most of the ones I have seen have a diagram on the side. Also most are numbered alike.
30=Hi current in (fuesed from bat)
86=Lo current wire from switch (other terminal on switch to fuse box)
85=Ground
87=Hi current to lights
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom