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Limiting straps and front 52's, anyone?

79chevyk10

79chevyk10

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Who here is running a limiting strap on the front to keep the front driveshaft from breaking besides me?

To give you a little info here, I am running 52's up front with the overload with a HAD 1350 CV shaft in the front with a doubler clocked up 2".

Had a couple of trips without problem and stupid flex.

Took it to the Hammers and broke the front CV center pin on the driveshaft. Now I run a limit strap to control the droop. Noticed that 52's are a pretty common set up these days and was wondering if anyone is running a single tcase with success. Please list your set up and what type of driveshaft your running that is working or is not working.

Here are a couple of shots. The muddy pic is Hollister and the granite pic is of Dusy at the top of chicken rock.

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Here's some more.

The forklift pic is my max flex just before the front driveshaft CV starts to bind, so I made a measurement and installed a limit strap.

The other pic is the trip I broke a new HAD shaft.

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I'm running 52's up front w/ overloads and a zero rate in the center position. I've got an SM465/205 with a modified stock CV driveshaft (cround stops, removed limit washer on splines) My shackle is in the stock location, the front hanger is moved forward and I have ORD's shackle kit with superduty shock towers and 12" travel shocks. The shocks and shackles limit my travel just as my cv starts to bind and I run out of spline on the driveshaft. I am planning on moving my engine back a few inches and down to lessen driveshaft angles and gain some length in the front shaft since the SM465 is extremely short.

Here's a pic.
cLIMB.jpg
 
I should also add that I lowered the bump stops 3" so when the spring is flat the bump stop is maxed and the shocks have 1" of uptravel. This was mandatory to keep my DLE from contacting the spring but will also make my springs last longer. :D
 
Ohh, I hear ya. Lowered my bump stops by 3" also and running comp style bushings. Recently switched to Fox resi shocks for the front and finally got rid of those piece of junk 15" procomps and need to redo my redone shock towers to gain more uptravel (I'm finding I like to haul ass as much as crawl these days.). The fox's are tunable and really making the 52's ride soo soo much better.
 
I don't run limiting straps and my front shaft has 1410 joints at each end and its not even close to binding.

1350 joints and the CV limit the angle you can run.
 
Yes, I have to agree. Unfortunately it doesn't look like the 1410 yoke will clear my triple stick shifter assembly. Are you running a doubler?
 
I'm running a full 52" spring pack with overload and the shocks are 15" travel. I don't max the shocks out, like everyone else I lowered by bump stops but I still allow for 3" up-travel. I have a 400/208 with the tcase clocked up 2".

Right now I'm just running a straight shaft with 9" slip, 1310 at the yoke and S44 at the tcase. No binding problems.

My long term plan is to run a 1410 shaft in the front. Maybe a square shaft like Chris, but I'm a little concerned about higher speeds. The $$$$ sure makes the square shafts attractive.

Here's a short clip that shows my front droop:
 
I am running the sm465/np205 with HAD 42 degree shaft. My problem now is the shaft pulls apart when flexed. The c/v is no where near flexing out, The slip shaft is just to short and can't be extended to far due to the short front shaft anyway.I have a limit strap on the passenger side only and it helps. If I do a doubler I should not have anymore issues.
 
Do you have a 12" slip on your shaft, if not, you should really upgrade to that with or without a doubler. I also am only running a strap on the pass side only.
Your spec list's a 1350 cv, I assume you upgraded to a 42* joint. I've heard from Jess that those aren't as strong. What happened to your old shaft?
 
With the 42 degree c/v Jesse at HAD could only put a 7 inch slip due to the c/v being so big and the shaft being so short. Once I do the doubler I will be able to get him to swap it out for one with more slip.
 
I only have about 8" of slip and seperation is my biggest problem. I'm trying to get creative in another post with ideas on how to add length to the front shaft without going to a doulber. :D
 
My square tube shaft is holding up just fine...no binding or anything. Cheap and relativelyt easy. If I can do it, anyone can do it. I think I am maxing out my 14.5" travel shocks :crazy:
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Everyone who has posted in this thread post up you trans/tcase specs this makes a big difference. Such as the sm465/np205 shaft being so short.
 
TruckNutzDude said:
I only have about 8" of slip and separation is my biggest problem. I'm trying to get creative in another post with ideas on how to add length to the front shaft without going to a doubler. :D
Click to expand...

My cheap solution was to find a 2wd sm465 and run a divorced np205. then I could set it up to have both front and rear shafts the same length. Then I could run a divorced atlas 4 speed later on.
 
Although square driveshaft work just fine (I have built several of them for friends) but I would never run one. Why? you ask, because it limits your top speed in 4wd. I live couple of blocks from Pismo dunes and I like to go wide open throttle and get a smile on my face. Haulin ass is as much fun as crawlin.
My specs are 350cid/TH350/NP203 to NP205 doubler with front 52's, D60 and heavy ass 42's on beadlocks running a HAD 1350 cv to 1350 at D60 with a 12" slip. Zero problems with over-extending the front shaft.

Thanks for all your input guys, I like to see what is working and what is not for fellow foolsize guys.
 
I have the same reservations about square driveshafts. I like having fun in the snow, and sometimes that involves a little speed. :D Or at the very least a little wheel speed.
 
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