i'm sure this has been discussed before but i couldn't narrow down the search results. have a 77 k5, d44 front with lockouts. why not weld the spiders up front? advanages/disadvantages? will this stress out other components? 90% of the time the truck is out in the desert crawling up hills. other than a mild 350, 35's and a 6" lift it's stock. np205, sm465. plans are for upgraded axles, detroits front and rear. but in the meantime...
CK5
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lincoln locker?
- Thread starter keelue
- Start date
Spools/welded diffs are much harder on parts than a real locker and you won't be able to steer hardly at all with the front hubs locked in. And its super hard on the steering components and the frame at the steering box.
in off road conditions would a welded front be any different than an arb or any other selectable locker?
Other than the fact that you can keep a selectable locker unlocked when you want
Basically every single turn you take with a welded front puts tons of stress on everything. With a selectable, you only lock it when you need it.
I run a Detroit with hydro assist, I like it a lot.
I've wheeled with people with spools and they are not the same thing at all. Spools are much tougher on things, mechanical lockers have some "slop" in them to relieve some of that tension and of course they can unlock if power isn't applied to them.
A testament would be that Longfield shafts are warrantied with mechanical lockers but they aren't with spools.
Other than the fact that you can keep a selectable locker unlocked when you want
Basically every single turn you take with a welded front puts tons of stress on everything. With a selectable, you only lock it when you need it.
I run a Detroit with hydro assist, I like it a lot.
I've wheeled with people with spools and they are not the same thing at all. Spools are much tougher on things, mechanical lockers have some "slop" in them to relieve some of that tension and of course they can unlock if power isn't applied to them.
A testament would be that Longfield shafts are warrantied with mechanical lockers but they aren't with spools.
i hear ya. thanks for the help. it seemed like a good thing, i figured without the hubs locked it'd drive just like normal, and in 4wd i'd have the same thing as a locker. but if it's gonna stress other parts more than a detroit would i'd rather spend the cash and have it done right. which leads me to another question...
how strong is a dana 44 front and the 12 bolt rear? i probably won't run much more than 37" tires. is it worth it to lock those axles if i'm doing some serious wheeling? are they strong enough or do should i consider dana 60's and 14 bolts? i've looked at quite a few lockers and really just wanna run detroits.
I'm sure somebody else will reply to this at some point
In the mean time, I did this to a D60 outer shaft and hub with 37's and my buggy is pretty damn light compared to a fullsize truck (just over 4K) and I was not particularly hard on it at the time (Detroit in the front):
Also, Detroit lockers (well, any mechanical locker) is vulnerable to being broken when a shaft lets go. The shock load of a shaft or hub breaking often takes the locker with it.
37's locked front and rear on a D44 and 12 bolt is pushing it big time. I've seen people do it, I've seen people break them with much smaller tires.
IMO, if you don't want to save up for one tons or you want to keep wheeling in the mean time, buy an Aussie locker for the front (much better than other lunchbox lockers) and don't invest much in the rear.
As much as I say don't go with a spool in the front, welding up the rear is much more reliable and won't affect steering nearly as much. It will make a pretty noticeable effect on tire wear on the street however.
1TUNK5
Registered Member
i ran my 10 bolt front and 12 bolt rear with locrites for almost 9 years. the front is still going strong but the rear wore out so i welded the spiders?? never broke a rear axle but have broken many front shafts and u-joints running 35" mud terrains?? the key is to not spin the tires or while under heavy load and turning?
no more half tons for me though? im in the process of a 60/14 bolt combo and 52 and 56" springs...
no more half tons for me though? im in the process of a 60/14 bolt combo and 52 and 56" springs...
that's good stuff, thanks!
gr8pumkin
Registered Member
I'm welded in the front of my blazer with a dana 60, what everyone is telling you is the truth... I have broke both stock 30 spline stub shafts with 38's I have radial fractured 35 spline stubs... Since then I have up graded to crome alloy shafts and have had no further problems. My rig is also trail only rig.
yeah i'll stay outta the diff. keep saving up for axles/lockers
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Mine is welded up front in a 3/4 ton 10 bolt with upgraded shafts.
I run 2 wheel drive when I can with a 14 bolt rear and detroit and I often lock one hub (the long shaft) and when I need to lock both. Yes steering is greatly diminished with both locked in. I also have the T-case twin sticked so I often engage/disengage.
I love the weird looks I get when I tell somebody to lock one hub.
I run 2 wheel drive when I can with a 14 bolt rear and detroit and I often lock one hub (the long shaft) and when I need to lock both. Yes steering is greatly diminished with both locked in. I also have the T-case twin sticked so I often engage/disengage.
I love the weird looks I get when I tell somebody to lock one hub.
I disagree with the idea that a welded diff is any harder on parts than a mechanical or selectable locker. Basically unless you are coasting a mechanical locker (Detroit, Lock-right, etc...) is locked up and transferring power just like a spool or welded diff. Sorry, but you are not going to break something while coasting which is the only real time there is a difference between a mechanical locker and a welded diff. You may even be able to argue that a mechanical locker is harder on parts because of the slop...loose fitting (slop) components suffer from shock loading, and I'm sure everybody with a Detroit is familiar with the loud bang when it locks.
Same basic idea with a selectable as you are not going to break something cruising through the woods at 5 mph. Rather it's when get the tires wedged in some rocks and get in the throttle. Sure, you could keep the ARB unlocked but what's the point in that if you are in a position where the extra traction is needed. I've personally seen a guy break a front shaft because he had his ARB unlocked because of the fear of breaking something.......but he had to beat the crap out of his rig to try to make it over some rocks versus being able to crawl it and thus wound up breaking something else.
I do agree that you lose some steering ability on the trail. A friend recently built a YJ with a D60 front with a spool and 37" Boggers. He never unlocks the hubs once on the trail and simply uses the twinstick on the t-case to run in 2-low and doesn't seem to have much difficulty.
Same basic idea with a selectable as you are not going to break something cruising through the woods at 5 mph. Rather it's when get the tires wedged in some rocks and get in the throttle. Sure, you could keep the ARB unlocked but what's the point in that if you are in a position where the extra traction is needed. I've personally seen a guy break a front shaft because he had his ARB unlocked because of the fear of breaking something.......but he had to beat the crap out of his rig to try to make it over some rocks versus being able to crawl it and thus wound up breaking something else.
I do agree that you lose some steering ability on the trail. A friend recently built a YJ with a D60 front with a spool and 37" Boggers. He never unlocks the hubs once on the trail and simply uses the twinstick on the t-case to run in 2-low and doesn't seem to have much difficulty.
