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List of gauges for a custom dash. *UPDATE* PIC POST 26

rdn2blazer

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Here is what I have. Im going to run all Autometer gauges.


1. Speedometer with odometer reading

2. Tach with rev limiter

3. Oil Pressure with built in auto Kill if pressure reads low for a specified amount of time

4. Water Temp

5. Fuel Gauge

6. Fuel Pressure

7. Vacume Boost


Anything I forgetting? I feel like there is.
 
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I'm wanting to add a clock to my set. I took out my stereo, so I don't have an easy time reference. :dunno:
 
I would run

Speedometer
Tachometer
Oil pressure
Oil temp
Water temp
Tranny temp
Volts
Fuel
 
DUH, I cant believe I forgot Volt and Trans Temp, what a dumbass. :haha:I told ya I was forgetting something.
 

Are there enough threaded bungs in the block for all these senders? :D

So what's the significance of oil temp vs. pressure? Low pressure means either a leak, at a gasket or the rings, or the oil pump is wearing out, both of which are bad. But what's it mean if the oil is warm or cold or whatever?

I mean, I presume if the oil temp shoots through the roof I stop the motor ... but what's the root cause?

-- A
 
Are there enough threaded bungs in the block for all these senders? :D

So what's the significance of oil temp vs. pressure? Low pressure means either a leak, at a gasket or the rings, or the oil pump is wearing out, both of which are bad. But what's it mean if the oil is warm or cold or whatever?

I mean, I presume if the oil temp shoots through the roof I stop the motor ... but what's the root cause?

-- A


X2. Does it have to do with as the oil loses its viscosity from wear and heat, the oil becomes hoter over time which equates to more engine temp, which means the cooling system has to work harder. Thats my theory anyways.
 
Are you running some sort of forced induction on this motor?? If not, drop the vac/boost and run a straight vacuum gauge. No need for boost if it is naturally aspirated unless it pops back through the intake alot.
Definitely add the volt and trans temp.
 
Are you running some sort of forced induction on this motor?? If not, drop the vac/boost and run a straight vacuum gauge. No need for boost if it is naturally aspirated unless it pops back through the intake alot.
Definitely add the volt and trans temp.



Ok, Got'cha I wasn't sure about that one anyways.
 
If you have the room, I say run one. It is not necessary, but I have one in my DD and I refer to it often especially now that gas is $4.00+. No better way to tell how hard you are working your motor than a vac gauge.
 
Are there enough threaded bungs in the block for all these senders? :D

So what's the significance of oil temp vs. pressure? Low pressure means either a leak, at a gasket or the rings, or the oil pump is wearing out, both of which are bad. But what's it mean if the oil is warm or cold or whatever?

I mean, I presume if the oil temp shoots through the roof I stop the motor ... but what's the root cause?

-- A

The oil temp sender goes into the oil pan.

If you are low on oil or the oil has broken down enough from either mileage or fuel dilution then the oil temp will be hotter than normal. My rig has a factory oil cooler and my oil temp runs about 180* consistantly.

The only things that will cause low oil pressure are, bad oil pump, an oil galley plug came out, or bearing clearances too loose. Rings have nothing to do with oil pressure.

Oil is part of what keeps an engine cool along with the cooling system. The more oil capacity an engine has the cooler the oil will run and in turn the cooler the engine temp will be. Just as water absorbs heat from the engine so does oil.

If your water temp starts getting hot or your oil temp starts getting hot you should definately stop to investigate what's wrong.
 
The oil temp sender goes into the oil pan.

If you are low on oil or the oil has broken down enough from either mileage or fuel dilution then the oil temp will be hotter than normal. My rig has a factory oil cooler and my oil temp runs about 180* consistantly.

The only things that will cause low oil pressure are, bad oil pump, an oil galley plug came out, or bearing clearances too loose. Rings have nothing to do with oil pressure.

Oil is part of what keeps an engine cool along with the cooling system. The more oil capacity an engine has the cooler the oil will run and in turn the cooler the engine temp will be. Just as water absorbs heat from the engine so does oil.

If your water temp starts getting hot or your oil temp starts getting hot you should definately stop to investigate what's wrong.


Cool, So I was kinda right. :D
 
just to clarify, as I'm sure you know, you MUST run an isolator and electric gauge for fuel pressure if it's gonna be IN the cab..

can be pricey, thus why I run a mechanical out on the hood...
 
just to clarify, as I'm sure you know, you MUST run an isolator and electric gauge for fuel pressure if it's gonna be IN the cab..

can be pricey, thus why I run a mechanical out on the hood...

My bud mentioned that too, thanks, but he said I dont need a fuel pressure gauge so I wont be running one.
 
In my crewcab outside the factory compliment i'm adding,

Brake pressure (Adjustable on the fly)
Air pressure (suspension)
Vaccum (Can alert you to a great deal of engine condition changes)
Fuel pressure
Trans. Temperature (tow rig, nuff said.)
 
just to clarify, as I'm sure you know, you MUST run an isolator and electric gauge for fuel pressure if it's gonna be IN the cab..

can be pricey, thus why I run a mechanical out on the hood...

For gasoline yes for sure 100%, for diesel I don't agree at all.

But the guage doesn't have to be electric. They make mechanical isolators, you fill the back side of the isolator with glycol generally.
 
Subscribed ! I threwout my factory dash as well gonna be doing the same thing you are make sure you post pics and wiring diagrams and step by step install and anything else that im too lazy to do myself!
 

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