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litfing body off frame

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nixit

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How heavy is a second gen body (1990). I'm stripping everything so its just the shell

I'm wondering it my rafters are strong enough to hold it while I roll the frame out. I think I'll have to strengthen them they are old 2x4s... really 2x4". I'm thinking of laying some 2x4 steel tubes across them so the load is shared across the majority of the structure. Idk kinda scary maybe bad idea. :smokin2:

I want a gantry crane so bad lol
 
Ah I just looked again it will need some reinforcement.

But how much
20140413_103315-e1397404132130.jpg
 
Might be easier to lift from underneath.

Get you some 2x4's, oriented vertically of course, wide enough to clear the frame and rolls underneath. Put them on metal drums or jack stands or ... whatever you have, as long as it's not cinderblocks :haha:

-- A
 
You might be right. Im just spoilt to using the crane at work. If its out of line you can just give is a shove
 
i used 3 2x4's screwed together standing vertically at each end. then I made heavy duty saw horses for it to sit on. I used 4 saw horses to store it. I used mobile home jacks to lift the body off of my frame.

if I were you I would get some square tubing to lay above the rafters before I used them.
 
I used 3 at each end of the blazer. I also had everything stripped out of the inside. Also that top is heavy. I would remove it first.

your rafters are long so they will need all the help they can get from bowing.

edit: I actually think I used 4 at each end now that I think about it.
 
nixit said:
Im thinking if y'all put 2x4s under it I can put them over it
Click to expand...

Yeah, but the ones under it don't have to hold up the garage too :)

Sawhorses is (are?) a good idea. Plus lumber is cheap as compared to steel.

-- A
 
If I were to use those 2x4's to lift the body up,I would nail a long 2x8 plank across several of them so they will all share the load,one on each side of the truck about 8 feet apart--then I'd put two or three 4x4"wood posts under the planks & rafters you'll be supporting the body with, and nail them to the planks,and secure them on the floor slab like a lolly colum,you can support a lot of weight that way,the floor will support the rafters and take much of the load off of them...the collar ties on the roof will be stronger than the 2x4's on the ceiling too,so it wont hurt to tie into those if possible--2x4's with that wide a span will sag pretty easily,the collar ties wont..

Then you could use a chain falls or come-a-long ,or winch to hoist the body up off the frame..
 
dremu said:
Might be easier to lift from underneath.

Get you some 2x4's, oriented vertically of course, wide enough to clear the frame and rolls underneath. Put them on metal drums or jack stands or ... whatever you have, as long as it's not cinderblocks :haha:

-- A
Click to expand...

Theres nothing wrong with using concrete blocks as long as you orient them the same as you would building a wall...


PS: Cinder blocks dont really exist anymore.


HYJACK OFF!


:D
 
I tend to over do things so I'd also put a vertical support column on either side of the truck or at least one in the middle of the building to transfer the load straight to the floor.

On a side note: Will you post pics if it falls in? I would.
 
AR_K5 said:
I tend to over do things so I'd also put a vertical support column on either side of the truck or at least one in the middle of the building to transfer the load straight to the floor.

On a side note: Will you post pics if it falls in? I would.
Click to expand...

Some temp supports to the floor are a good idea. However I still wouldnt use a single 2x4 spanning the width of the truck. I would pick up a 2x6 and temporarily sister the two beams you're picking up from.
 
Stomis said:
Theres nothing wrong with using concrete blocks as long as you orient them the same as you would building a wall...


PS: Cinder blocks dont really exist anymore.


HYJACK OFF!


:D
Click to expand...


I put 40 ton boats on em daily.... :whistle: ;)



I've never done the hang/winch way, but I would suspect if you sistered a couple boards on top of the 2x4's and wedged in a vertical support on the 2 used beams at the middle of the garage, you'd be fine...

it's not an elephant... :haha:
 
Stomis said:
Theres nothing wrong with using concrete blocks as long as you orient them the same as you would building a wall...

PS: Cinder blocks dont really exist anymore.
Click to expand...

Yabbut you know how many pix we've had had here of people putting them long-side-up, like a 8 or a B? :doah:

And I just went and Wikipedia'd cinderblock and had to read about "fly ash" and "bottom ash." Which sound like diseases Sean Connery would have. "I had fly ash but the doctor gave me a pill..."

ANYWAY, good points on using 2x6's and a box of nails ... and a REALLY good point about pix. Especially if there is a fail.

This from the guy who rolled his Blazer into an aluminum garden shed (and posted pix)... :haha:

-- A
 
Don't do it as-is. You have an unknown load already from your roof and your span is too long. Beams in general get their strength (aside from the actual material) by having a relatively short span and large 'section'. The section of your 2x4s is the 4" measurement. This is the material that supports and separates the compressive stress on top from the tensile stress on bottom when loaded vertically. Example: If you delete the vertical part of an I-beam and stack the top and bottom on top of each other, it will be very flimsy.

A couple of people on here nailed it. You can lift from above, but you would need to add stilts or columns at your lift points. This basically shortens your span to the distance between the temporary columns.

If you feel like doing some math to be certain, take some measurements and then google the 'Modulus of elasticity(E)' of the wood for your 2x4s and go here: http://www.advancepipeliner.com/Resources/Others/Beams/Beam_Deflection_Formulae.pdf

I'm an engineer if it helps, which means I have a talent for using sciency words and math to solve common sense problems.
 
Looking at doing this has just given me the reason to buy that two post lift I've been wanting... :thumb:
 
Not trying to be a smarta** but you are going to turn the Blazer around so the front faces the garage door, correct? Looks like you only have 2 feet of overhead clearance and you need 3-4 to get the body over the engine, etc.

That 2ft doesn't get you much room to put a hoist or winch unless you are going to go off the roof peak and pull it up to the rafters.

The garage door looks like it might be in the way when you open it to get the frame out as well.



20140413_103315-e1397404132130.jpg
 
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