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Lock-Out Grenading

C

CDA 455

3/4 ton status
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What does it take to grenade a lock out?

Even a quality Spicer unit.

I've never had one go boom on me. All my off roading, short of a long dirt straight-away, have been done at less than 5MPH.
 
Last edited:
gmc4cw said:
Torque and traction.
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O.K.

Would it be caused by an abusive lead foot, or something else?


Would anything else grenade BEFORE the lock out? Or is the lock out the weakest link on the axle?
 
CDA 455 said:
Would anything else grenade BEFORE the lock out? Or is the lock out the weakest link on the axle?
Click to expand...

I used to run warn premium hubs on my 44. I had hub fuses in them. they are supposed to go before the hub or u-joint.

http://www.warn.com/truck/axles/hub_fuse.shtml

I never broke one. I did snap a short side inner axle right were it necked down after the splines. replaced it with a warn HD shaft. snapped the ears off the stub shaft next time out. replaced it with a warn HD shaft. next ride I grenaded a HD spicer u-joint and ended up taking the ears of the warn shafts in the process. I also broke the pins in a lockright.

after all those breaks I bought a 60. :rolleyes:
 
gmc4cw said:
I used to run warn premium hubs on my 44. I had hub fuses in them. they are supposed to go before the hub or u-joint.

http://www.warn.com/truck/axles/hub_fuse.shtml

I never broke one. I did snap a short side inner axle right were it necked down after the splines. replaced it with a warn HD shaft. snapped the ears off the stub shaft next time out. replaced it with a warn HD shaft. next ride I grenaded a HD spicer u-joint and ended up taking the ears of the warn shafts in the process. I also broke the pins in a lockright.

after all those breaks I bought a 60. :rolleyes:
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Hey, thanks for the info :bow: :bow: !


I have a CUCV D60 and I'm going back and forth regarding spool/lock-outs or Detroit locker/flanges set up.

That's where my thread question originated.
 
given your choices I would run a spool and lock outs. then you can trail ride with one hub unlocked until you need the extra traction.


But you forgot to list ARB and flanges. Thats my ideal setup.
 
given your choices I would run a spool and lock outs. then you can trail ride with one hub unlocked until you need the extra traction.
Click to expand...

Dumb question:
By riding with one hub unlocked, what does this do?

But you forgot to list ARB and flanges. Thats my ideal setup.
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Excellent point.

I thought of this combo too (it was my first chose).

But then, between cost and complexity, I reverted back to K.I.S.S. (Keep it simple stupid) logic. Especially when we're talking major, major cost differences between the two.
 
CDA 455 said:
Dumb question:
By riding with one hub unlocked, what does this do?



Excellent point.

I thought of this combo too (it was my first chose).

But then, between cost and complexity, I reverted back to K.I.S.S. (Keep it simple stupid) logic. Especially when we're talking major, major cost differences between the two.
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I will run flanges and a detroit when I get the money. I currently am welded with lockouts. It is fine offroad with hydro assist with both hubs locked. I tried the 1 hub unlocked thing and it really made no difference and it really sucked to backup, getout and lock the hub, and try the obstacle again:rolleyes: . Oh I have not broken anything other than a joint in the front driveshaft with this setup and 37s with a tired 350.

Dana 60 by the way.

Dik
 
CDA 455 said:
Dumb question:
By riding with one hub unlocked, what does this do?
Click to expand...

Its supposed to help you turn easier, but it doesn't help much and is much harder on that one hub/shaft/u-joint.
 
I will run flanges and a detroit when I get the money. I currently am welded with lockouts. It is fine offroad with hydro assist with both hubs locked.
Click to expand...

When you get the money???!!!!!! You're the Admiral of the Commissary :D :haha: :p: !!! You make beaucoup bucks :wink1: !!


Seriously though, that's where I'm leaning too.
 
I'm just waiting for someone to come along and tell me its ok to run a spool and flanges up front. I'm cheap and want to do it. I trailer the truck so there is no road time to worry about, but being able to turn offroad is so nice.

I go places with an open front diff that guys who are fully locked can't go. mostly because i am to dumb to turn back :rolleyes: and 44's will roll over lots of stuff.
 
gmc4cw said:
I'm just waiting for someone to come along and tell me its ok to run a spool and flanges up front. I'm cheap and want to do it. I trailer the truck so there is no road time to worry about, but being able to turn offroad is so nice.

I go places with an open front diff that guys who are fully locked can't go. mostly because i am to dumb to turn back :rolleyes: and 44's will roll over lots of stuff.
Click to expand...

The only reason I do not run flanges now is it really sucks to turn on anything other than dirt with a welded front and the hubs locked in.:doah:

As far as turning offroad I do not have any issues. I have learned that if you get the front wheels turned where you want to go and blip the throttle it will walk right around.

Since you trailer I would not hesitate to run a spool or welded front and drive slugs.

Dik
 
I'm just waiting for someone to come along and tell me its ok to run a spool and flanges up front. I'm cheap and want to do it. I trailer the truck so there is no road time to worry about, but being able to turn offroad is so nice.
Click to expand...


Have you experienced that set up :confused: ? I haven't. Is it that bad?

To me, that's the best set up for 'only off road'.

Very bullet-proof I would think too.
 
CDA 455 said:
Have you experienced that set up :confused: ? I haven't. Is it that bad?

To me, that's the best set up for 'only off road'.

Very bullet-proof I would think too.
Click to expand...

When my hubs are locked this is basically what I have.


Dik
 
CDA 455 said:
O.K.

So how is it turning while off road? How does it act?
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I think it turns fine but I also have no problem putting my truck on a rock and using that to pivot.

I have had it out twice with the welded front and I personally feel there is no real difference in turning. I only noticed the added traction of all 4 tires pulling no ill effects. I also run a 1.75" assist ram, I would not recommend a spool or welded without assist as it does suck.

Maybe with highspeed stuff it will want to scrub or not turn but the slow stuff I have run on I did not see any appreciable difference over an open dif.

Dik
 
I pivot my truck on trees and rocks now so I'm not worried about that. I have a 2x8 ram so thats covered. I just don't wanna spend money on hubs when I already have the flanges that came with the axle. :rolleyes: I'm not cheap, I'm poor.

I guess I'm worried about stress on the axle shafts and u-joints.
 
gmc4cw said:
I pivot my truck on trees and rocks now so I'm not worried about that. I have a 2x8 ram so thats covered. I just don't wanna spend money on hubs when I already have the flanges that came with the axle. :rolleyes: I'm not cheap, I'm poor.

I guess I'm worried about stress on the axle shafts and u-joints.
Click to expand...

The only joint I have broken is the axle end joint of the front driveshaft. It is still 1310 by the way:(

Dik
 
I have never personally ran this setup but know a couple of guys who have run welded with drive flanges up front, one guy went from breaking hubs to breaking axles, the other didn't have many problems with it. These are both mud trucks, and both guys are now running lockouts and detroits cause its easier to turn in the mud.
 
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