What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Lock rite lockers?

K

K5Kell

Guest
Does anyone have any experience or advice on running a lock rite in a 14blt FF? Need a cheaper locker then a Detroit and saw these at Desert rat for about 230 dollars. Well, any warnigs or info would be great, thanks.
-Kell-
 
I have one in the 7.5" Ford rear axle in my Ranger and I have had no problems with it at all. It makes all kinds of noise, but it works GREAT.
 
I had a bad experience with mine breaking in my 10bolt. But other than it breaking and it clicking and clunking a [I love Jeeps] load, it worked fairly well.
 
A detroit for your 14b F/F should only be around $300-350.... But, if you are anything like me, that may as well be a million.... /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
I am considering one for my 14 ff. Does the same thing as a Detroit and costs less. I don't know why anyone wants a Detroit.
 
I have one in my 14 FF. It's cheaper as you re-use your old carrier. A weak carrier (such as a 10 bolt carrier) will become much weaker (actually not weaker, but subjected to more abuse) with the added traction. The case on the 14FF is pretty beefy and should last.
What are the specs on your truck....motor, gears, tire size, driving habits, etc.? That will determine alot.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I don't know why anyone wants a Detroit.

[/ QUOTE ]
For me it's because I've seen lots of broken Lock Rites. They're recommended for the "occasional off-roader". Folks who abuse them regularly tend to explode them. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif It's very rare that I hear of anyone breaking a Detroit Locker. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I got a stock 350 TBI and will be running 4.56's with 36x12.50r15 SX's. As far as driving habits I do tend to be pretty hard on the Blazer. A Detroit for 300-350? wheres that deal located?
-Kell-
 
They are recommended for the occassional off roader because they don't replace the carrier on ANY application, but that doesn't matter because no locker (except the Gov-Loc if that counts) replaces the carrier on the 14 ff.

Both are very similar in design.
 
What do you guys think about the stock Gov-lock in the 14FF? I have one and It seems to work pretty well.

85K5 3/4ton,14boltFF,10bolt,9"lift, 35"boggers,16.5x14 welds, big horse 406SBC/700R4 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
 
Perhaps, but I wheel with LOTS of different folks, vehicles, etc., so I tend to see what works and what doesn't. I've seen Lock Rites fail in stock CJ7's, with carbed 258 CI inline sixes under the hood and 31-inch tires. Not exactly a high-stress environment. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif It's sorta like your old Dana 44 (or 10-bolt) vs. Dana 60 argument. You can go with a proven winner, or save a few bucks now and wonder when the cheaper solution is gonna leave you stranded. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
price?

National Drivetrain used to be the cheapest place to get a Lock-Right at $238.60 for a 10 bolt. Sometime in the last week they've gone up to $255. I have a hard time paying that much for a lunchbox locker, especially since I'd be buying two. I might as well buy a spool for the back ($200) and save the rest for a winch. Or better yet, just save the money for a winch.

Anybody got a line on a better price?
 
Re: price?

I bought my Detriot for the rear(14FF) from Drivetrain Direct for $300! They might have gone up recently, but I doubt it! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Re: price?

I'm stuck with a Gov-Loc right now anyway, so I suppose it doesn't matter for me. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I was thinking lock-right for my front '60 though.

However, if you really think about it, seeing a lockright fail in say a Jeep with a worn out carrier is far different than in a 14 bolt where the carrier is so strong than even the Detroit doesn't replace the carrier.

With all this trash talk, even though I've had good luck with my Lock-Right, I may pay the extra for the Detroit for my big truck should I locate an open diff rear for it (which I'd like to do so I don't have to move spring pads and install the Gov-Locked 14 bolt from my 1 ton).

This one guy I met over the weekend with an awesome K5 (8+3 for lift, 383/TH400/NP 205 and 44" Boggers) said that he used to have a Detroit in his front '60 and he broke lots of shafts. Finally he managed to break the Detroit and he put a Power-Loc in his front '60 and he's much happier now (no breakage). Since we're on the topic of traction devices, what do you guys think of the Power-Loc? I know the White Knight had/has one, but I haven't heard of anyone else using one.
 
Re: price?

my lockright works great , and not alot of noise. i read up on the locker and they said that alot of the extra noises
are caused from worn out parts already in the carrier, like
the thrust washers and the pin. i replaced both of these parts when i installed mine. oh, this is in a 10 bolt. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Re: price?

Actually I think the reason mine makes so much noise it that I have a ground pin in mine because the ring gear is so thick that before I ground a few teeth, you couldn't even remove the cross pin completely without removing the ring gear from the carrier.

I am going to try a full round pin and see what happens.
 
Re: price?

[ QUOTE ]
However, if you really think about it, seeing a lockright fail in say a Jeep with a worn out carrier is far different than in a 14 bolt where the carrier is so strong than even the Detroit doesn't replace the carrier.


[/ QUOTE ]
This "worn out carrier" was in a stock CJ7 with 56,000 miles on the odometer. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif The Lock-Rite was installed by a shop that specializes in diff rebuilds. I've seen another Jeep break 2 Lock Rites, both the front and the rear, within 24 hours of having them professionally installed. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Rocks are brutal on drivetrain parts. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

The Power-Lok, despite its name, isn't a locker. It's just a beefy posi-traction unit. They work well in sand and mud, but will let a tire in the air spin helplessly. Sometimes you can modulate the brake pedal just right to get it to transfer power back to the tire on the ground.

Lockers in the front axle create a LOT of stresses that didn't exist with an open, or even posi-trac type diff. Locked front ends tend to break axles much more often. The sudden release of energy when a shaft that has been stressed beyond its limits decides to self destruct is one of the few things that have been known to break a Detroit Locker.

I'd prefer a selectable locker up front. You seldom need to be locked up front, so driving with an open front diff is easier on parts and makes it MUCH easier to steer. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Then for that .001% of the time when you really need to have the front locked, you can lock it in, get past the obstacle, then revert back to the open diff again. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif But you have to pay to play... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Re: price?

Ouch. I know what's NOT going in my wheeling truck now. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Detroit for the rear, leave front open until I can afford to put an ls in it.

I know that the Power-Loc is not a locker, I was simply curious if it worked well enough to be used for four wheeling. I generally think that L/S units suck for four wheeling, but some are tighter than others.
 
Re: price?

Sounds like a plan! I hate having to waste time and money to do stuff twice, so my motto is "Do it right the first time!".
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom