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Lock rite lockers?

Re: price?

i used to have a lock rite in my 1/2 ton dodge, with 36" tsl radials, 95% street use, i had gotten not even 2 years out of it when it [I love Jeeps] the bed this past winter. nothing like doing differential work with 3" of snow on the ground in 0 degree weather. i thought the diff. didnt have any gear oil in it. when i pulled back the cover nothing came out, then when i got the cover totally off, it just sorta "fell" out in one big glob. now i run Mobil 1.
 
Re: price?

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I am considering one for my 14 ff. Does the same thing as a Detroit and costs less. I don't know why anyone wants a Detroit.

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Detroit for the rear,

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Re: price?

We'll just see. I may go either way. My rear lock right seems to work ok. I may order both and compare them beforehand.

If they're both similar in design, I'll keep the lock right.

Has anyone had a 14 FF lockright fail?
 
Re: price?

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Both are very similar in design.

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If they're both similar in design, I'll keep the lock right.

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Huh? Do you even know what you are talking about?

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Re: price?

Do you? Think about it? They're both lunchbox lockers and both fit in the open carrier for a 14 bolt FF. I'll admit, I've never seen either unit for that particular axle out and apart, but both are a similar design where they replace side/spider gears with a locking mechanism. I have simply never seen that particular application.

I sell auto parts all day long and I've seen so many times where parts will be very similar or the same and vastly different prices. That's when I physically compare the parts.

If both appear the same strength, then it's a no brainer what will go in. If the Detroit is a significantly better product, you can bet I'd spend the extra cash.

In the end when it's yours, make the decision yourself. I'm perfectly happy with the lock right that's in my Ranger's 7.5" Ford. For my 14 FF, I'll cross that road when I come to it. Honestly, I'm more interested in what to put in the front (where there are more options than just lockers) than the rear. Pretty much it's going to be one or the other for the rear.

So, although I'm thinking like a crack head this week, yes, they're a similar design no matter what, but as to if one is significantly stronger than the other, I have no idea. I'll make that decision when they're both next to each other on the bench for me.

Pretend I said, "Both are similar in design, but if both are similar in appearance and strength, I'd go with the Lock Right.

Damn people are nit picky this week.
 
Re: price?

I was waiting for that response out of you. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif You make a absurd claim and state that "I don't know why anyone would want a Detroit", someone calls you on it and you can't back up your statement. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif You want to "pretend" you said something else. Do yourself a favor, don't make claims and comments about things you know little or nothing about. People will tend to not be so "nit-picky" with you.

As far as the Detroit vs. Lock-Right debate, you should state that they are both very similar in application. Design and application have nothing to do with each other. A Wankel engine and a 350 chevy are both engines, they both sit under the hood of motor vehicles, and they both move a vehicle down the road, but they are nowhere similar in design. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

Take it from someone who has an engineering background, works in "design" everyday, and deals with costs of materials & manufacturing, that similar appearance has nothing to do with cost. Supply & Demand, material costs and manufacturing costs are all factors in what an end product costs you and I.

You are correct, it all comes down to what you prefer, but don't condemn a more costly part, ESPECIALLY when you don't know anything about it. You yourself admitted that.

I guess just about everyone with a 14BFF and the U.S. Military have picked the Detroit for some reason. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Re: price?

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They're both lunchbox lockers and both fit in the open carrier for a 14 bolt FF.

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That assumption is incorrect. The Detroit Locker for a 14-bolt FF is made just like the internal parts of other Detroit Lockers. It just so happens that the factory case from an open 14 bolt FF is beefy enough and roomy enough for the Detroit Locker parts to fit inside of it. So you save some serious cash by not having to buy a new carrier with the Detroit Locker for a 14 bolt FF. It fits right in to the 4-pinion carrier, so it's very strong. On many other axles, the factory carrier isn't strong enough, so a new one comes with the Detroit Locker. Thus the $500+ price tag on most other Detroit Lockers. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Unlike the "lunchbox locker" designs, you do have to completely remove the carrier from the housing, disassemble it, and then install the Detroit Locker parts.

The Detroit Locker uses big, beefy springs to control engagement and disengagement. The Lock-Rite designs that I've seen use tiny springs and spacers to control this. The space between the drive and driven members in a Lock-Rite is critital. The Detroit Locker is a bolt-it-in-and-forget-it unit. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

There's also one other consideration. Gears and bearings for a 14-bolt FF cost a serious chunk of change. So while you might save $70 up front, if the Lock-Rite grenades and spews parts through the diff it can break teeth off the gears, ruin the bearings, etc. Now you're looking at spending $400+ for gears, bearings, etc. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif You'll really be feeling good about saving $70 about then. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I don't have the receipt in front of me, but I think I only paid $350 for mine from Randy's R&P. I Don't think I've ever seen them for a 14b F/F for much more than that. Its a good deal for the 14b since it doesn't replace the carrier (like the lock-rite I assume).

To 84_CHEVY_K10:
As far as not knowing "why anyone would want a Detroit locker." It's only among the most highly recommended lockers in the industry. No, that's not just my opinion ... ask around. But, since I'm also running a 700r4, I probably just don't know what I'm talking about.... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
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IAs far as not knowing "why anyone would want a Detroit locker."

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I didn't mean to word it that way.

They ARE similar in design and I stand by my statement. I know damn well you have to remove the carrier to install either on in a 14 bolt full floater, I've got two 14 FFs in my possession and looking at it makes that painfully obvious. Both are going to require carrier removal to install them and go in the same way. Both are going to do the exact same thing once installed. The only thing in question is, are they equal strength? This is not like comparing two engines, one with 8 cylinders and one with 4. This is two parts doing the exact same function for the exact same axle. Basically like comparing two Chevy 350 flat top pistons of a different brand.

I have not seen the 14 FF's Lock-Right, but if it uses the same tiny springs that my Lock-Right uses and the Detroit uses much larger parts, then that'd be a significant difference in strength, right? It'd be painfully obvious which one to choose.

However, we have to agree that both parts perform the same function, so if the Lock-Rights don't break, they're perfectly fine in my opinion.

I didn't mean to discount the reputation of a Detroit. That's pretty much an unquestionable piece of equipment there. We all know that it works well enough to break just about everything else and still stay together.

I've emailed Richmond reguarding an exploded view of the Lock-Right. I'm going to check it out and post it so we can see if it's really worth a **** or if it's just cheesy like the 10 bolt Lock-Right is.
 
someone obviously hasnt seen a Lockrite locker.
in my opinion, its not something that should not be in the rear of a fullsize. on the 9.25 in my dodge, it relied on 4 pins about 1/4" in diameter to make it a locker.
now i pretty much never take my dodge offroad. the most offroading its done with that locker has been driving thru a muddy apple orchard in Indiana. i will admit, its basically a Street Queen. so if something that sees 90-95% of its time on pavement, breaks, then i consider that junk.
even with the rebuild kit of springs and pins, it still wouldnt work anymore. hence why i bought a detroit locker as its replacement.
now when i get around to fixing up the 14 bff to slap under my k5, i guarantee you im not going to piss money away on a Lockrite for it.
 
I have seen a lock right, just not the 14 bolt ff model. I was hoping that the 14 bolt ff one wasn't like that. If it is, it's cheesy trash! I'm hoping it's not.
 
First of all, anything that you put into a Dodge will break simply because it will get contaminated right away with Dodgeitis. Second, Lockrites are not junk, if you need the strenght of a 14 bolt FF I would for sure go with the detroit locker since the price difference is so small but Lockrites are fine for half ton axles and I know many people run them in the front with big tires on some pretty hard core trucks.
 
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First of all, anything that you put into a Dodge will break simply because it will get contaminated right away with Dodgeitis. Second, Lockrites are not junk, if you need the strenght of a 14 bolt FF I would for sure go with the detroit locker since the price difference is so small but Lockrites are fine for half ton axles and I know many people run them in the front with big tires on some pretty hard core trucks.

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you obviously didnt read my post, i said the rear of full size trucks. where it gets used all the time and not when only in 4wd.
 
I am just curious as to when CK5.com became flame board? All of the opinions on how he stated the question were not called for. If you have a problem with how someone states something then skip the post and move on. This guy asked a question looking for honest opinions, not your smart ass diarrhea of the mouth. State your opinion which one you like,why and then shut your trap. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif


I like my Detroits, for the time and piece of mind I would spend the extra money. I know some people who run lockrights, but the Detroit is proven piece of equipment, good luck on your decision and let us know how you like it /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I say you should all find a common, reasonable location, set up a ring and duke it out. Let the rest of us know where it is so we can come out and do a little gambling. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
i personally was happier in some ways with the welded carrier in my 14bolt /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif...then went to a detroit (used for 50 buks)couldnt resist /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif...and it drives down the road worse but wheels the same....make note i have a stick so the detroit unlocks every time i shift causing me to look like a drunk driver most of the time /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif...and i have factory trac lock in the front dana44 that im pretty sure is very wore out...rarely spins 2 tires anymore /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif....BTW i still have the welded carrier if ur interested
 
There is a simple reason that lock rights are not the greatest choice for smaller axles. (anything less than a dana 60). Lock rights are limited by the size of the factory carrier. If you search you will find several posts and lenthy discussions from many who run the lock right in dana 60's and virtually all have good things to say. THe size of the carrier is much greater thus allowing much beefier components. I've had lock rights in 10 bolts and had decent luck with them, however, they do not like serious abuse. If you look at the physical size of a lock right for a dana 60 versus a dana 44 or 35, you will see what I mean. A traction aid that replaces the entire carrier will always be stronger, but the cost and ease of install are something to consider. Personally I would never run one again other than in a dana 60. /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
I agree with those statements......the Lock-right is limited in strength due to the size and strength of the stock carrier. I don't understand why people will bad mouth a 10-bolt Lock-right and then in another post say that the 10-bolt itself is too weak. If you have problems with breaking a 10-bolt, than you will also break a Lock-right in a 10-bolt.

Also to clarify some comments on previous posts, the four small pins with the springs on them are not what holds the two sides together to enable the locking mechanism. The springs force the center gear and side gear together in which the teeth on the gears engage to enable the lock up. There is obviously no way that four 1/4" pins would survive if they were what was locking both sides together............

I'm currently running a Lock-right in my front Dana 60 and 38" Swampers. I'm really not expecting to break the Lock-right but time will tell. I just couldn't justify spending an extra $200 for a Detroit and $150 for new bearings. Also, I want to eventually swap gears which means I would have to change carriers at that time and didn't want to have to buy one Detroit now and another Detroit when I swap gears.

Speaking of money, the difference in cost is probably a big reason you don't see many 14FF Lock-rights......while in most applications there is a couple hundred $$ between the Lock-right and Detroit, in the 14FF application there is only maybe $50-$70 which makes the decision a lot easier.

Two guys in our club have also been using Lock-rights in a front 60 for several years. One was under a Dodge pickup with 39.5" Swampers and a 440, and the other was under a Chevy 1-ton with a healthy 454 and some sort of semi tires on custom rims (about 40" tall). Neither one of these guys ever had any problems with the Lock-right and they saw lots of use.
 
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