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Lock Screw Broke Pinion Shaft Stuck Suggestions?

Just4Fun

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in this 10 bolt rear end. any suggestions. Kinda NEED the axle shafts outta this thing badly. Thanks
 
Only two options I'm aware of...try and pick it out, or use a drill/bit that will allow you to come in from the side. I'm not sure if removing the caps will give you any more room to get at it with a drill. All the threads are up near the head, the rest of it just "floats". There aren't but maybe 1/2" at most of threads just under the head of the lock bolt, so once you get that out of the way, the thing will come out. A reverse threaded bit would be handy I bet. It may help if you can rotate the pinion shaft a bit, it may be twisted, putting pressure on the lock bolt.

Don't bother trying to drill through the pinion shaft itself, or pounding it out. BTDT :)

One last option, which is probably just plain dumb, considering the weakness of the carrier, is to cut the carrier right next to the pinion shaft on either side with a cutoff wheel. I don't know as I'd trust that for any length of time afterwards though. :)
 
Every once in a blue moon, the remainder of the bolt will slide right out with a small telescoping magnet. That's providing the complete threaded section of the bolt came out to begin with.
 
Tried a magnet right off the bat with no luck. Couldn't get the drill in there sideways to try to back it out so I drilled straight on it for a while right next to the shaft and got it free.
 
I have done this twice, one I was able to use a pick and unscrew the piece out. It had a tiny bit of thread left. The other time I used a BFH and a huge punch to drive out the cross shaft, I went from the opposite side of the bolt. It tore the hell out of the carrier though, had to do what I had to do!!
 
"I was able to use a pick and unscrew the piece out"

This worked for me once. When the bolt broke it wasnt a "clean" break... I used a pick to grab some of the imperfections on the bolt and spin it out. It took me an hour or so, but it worked.
 
There is a "kit" for doing this. The kit basically consist of a 12" long 1/8" drill bit, an allen bolt that screws into the existing hole that has a 1/8" hole through the center of it to be used as a guide for the drill bit, and also an extractor that is used after the broken piece has been drilled through.
 
Tried a magnet right off the bat with no luck. Couldn't get the drill in there sideways to try to back it out so I drilled straight on it for a while right next to the shaft and got it free.
You had luck. Buy your replacement from the stealer, and "polish" it on a bench mount wire wheel. That will tend to clean-up any surface burs on the "cut" threads. Clean both the carrier and the stop bolt with IPA or Lacquer Thinner, let dry, maybe use some Lock-Tight Blue and juuuusssst torque it snug.
On mine I had to use a Dremel flex wand to drill the flack, and then use an easy-out to walk it to Papa. That was on a 180Kmiles drivetrain.
 
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