Locked rear axle - How to make it roll for towing

[newyorkin]

OK, I feel a little dumb asking this. I've always been a little nervous about shimming (screwing up) gears, so I never learned much (anything) about assembly and disassembly.

What typically makes a corp 10-bolt sieze-up? What do I need to do to make it ride-able again so I can drive on the front axle or flat tow it?

Thanks in advance for the info!

Ratch
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**K5 - What more is there to life?**

 

[mpascino]

To start off towing a locked axle shouldn't be any difference than any other axle. Just put the t-case in neutral and make sure the front hubs are unlocked. Just as driving with a locked rear is different it should be safe to say towing will be too so be careful. What happened exactly? Chances are if you did something to the rear it will not be safe to drive the truck around because 10 bolts are not full floating and when you blow the rear end your axles shafts have nothing left to hold them in the axle......Next thing you know is one of your rear wheels cuts you off on the highway.

Also to just drive on the front end people usually just remove the rear driveshaft. I believe you have a slip yoke t-case so you can't do this with out loseing all your t-case fluid. Is the truck stuck somewhere? More importantly is it somewhere it is not supposed to be? Best bet is to pull the cover off the rear and see what went wrong, if it is seized what ever happened should be pretty obvious.

You call that dirty!?

 

[newyorkin]

I don't know, in answer to everything. It'S suburban I'm picking up really cheap, the owner just told me the rear locked up on him and bent the drivshaft, so I'm assuming it's siezed. It's in CT, about 100 miles to drive it back to Huntington LI, where I live. I'm going to put together some kind of slip yoke to stick over the output shaft and hold in some fluid, I just need to figure out how to make it stay in...

Pardon the typing, my 1 year old just decided he needs my undivided attention...


Ratch
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5.8m.com>http://k5.8m.com</A>
**K5 - What more is there to life?**

 

[Esteban86K5]

As far as the slip yoke, if you go to any tranny shop and ask them for a plug for your t-case they should be able to supply one. I got one when I blew my rear end up and had to drive it in fwd. The plug stayed in and I didn't even tape it up. As far as towing it home, why not rent a car dolly and jack up the rear wheels slide the doll underneath and drop it. Otherwise go to AAA pay about $60 for a "Plus" membership and let them deal with it. The "plus" membership will give you 4 tows of 100 miles each. It might be cheaper and safer that way. Good Luck!

<font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

<font color=red>SEMPER FI TO MY BLAZER

 

[tRustyK5]

Theres prolly some shrapnel jammed in the teeth inside the diff. Pull the cover and remove the remains of the damage...it might not function but it should roll.

Rene

<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>

 

[FastEddy]

also the main pin in the carrier may have come out/broke and jammed up against the housing....as for the AAA thing I do towing up here for CAA (canadian affiliate of AAA) and if you go that route, toss some license plates on the sub first, or they won't tow it. In our call slips we have to have a plate #....it doesn't have to match the vehicle, as no body ever checks them, but it is supposed to be a registered vehicle, not something you just bought, etc. Just thought I would let you know....not that I'm trying to help you be dishonest or anything.....just my 2 cents.....ED

 

[POWERMAD]

If you can get the rear wheels to roll you can leave the driveshaft in place.
I don't know where my head was at yesterday... The driveshaft on a Burb is two piece, you can unscrew the grease cap ot the slip yoke and remove the rear section leaving the front section in place.
It will be held in place by the center support bearing which is bolted to a crossmember

my truck's not dirty, it's earth tone paint