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locker question

skelly1

skelly1

1/2 ton status
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Sep 2, 2002
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San Diego, CA
As I recall, there are 2 lockers that are easily installed by the backyard mechanic. Lockright and true track or something like that. I remember one of them is good, the other is junk. I want one for my front D44. If I break it, I'll upgrade to a D60 and a detroit. For now, it's geared right and it's in the truck, so I'm going to throw a few hundred at it and call it good for now.
 
The lockright replaces the stock spider gears in the differential and reuses the stock carrier. It will provide the traction afforded by a true automatic locker--the axles are locked together. The Trutrac is a gear driven limited slip differential that replaces the entire carrier. It will provide more control over wheel spin than a clutch-type LSD but not as much as a true locking differential. It all depends on how the torque bias set up in the differential. I don't know what TracTech sets it up at. With the Lockright, or any other locker that reuses the stock carrier, it is only as stong as the stock carrier. I don't know if the Trutrac's carrier is stronger than the stock D44 carrier.

Kevin
 
i bought the power trax no slip, its easily installed by a back yard mechanic, but i think it was more expensive than its counter part made from the same company. the reason mine was a bit more expensive was its supposed to be quiter and less noticeable. i dont notice it too much
 
The true-trac isnt even a locker, its a limited slip. I dont know why he said that.

Go with a lockright, takes just a little while to install with simple hand tools.
 
I just installed the Lock-Rite in my 12B today... did'nt hear anything when I was driving around the block...the inner tire during the turn actually squaked (sp) when I got on the gas....

BTW... I got my Lock-Rite from Jegs for $208.00 and free shipping...check there site...they were the cheapest!!!
 
I bought a Quic LOC/Detroit EZ Locker , and it was removed 4 times by me until I got the right sized thrust washers in it to stop it from popping all the time for no reason , its going into a truck that I won't daily drive now . I have since taken it out and bought a Lockright .

The Lockright is way quiet and easy on the street , you really only hear it clicking in parking lots at 5 mph and doing a tight turn .

It basically is trouble free , you just need to remember its there . The little nuances are easy to get used to .

It will lock and chirp tires around corners from a stop like a spool if you get on it . It will sometimes chirp the left rear on a sweeping turn from a stop as the weight transfers right and you shift to second . It will sometimes pull the steering wheel as you let up on the throttle and immediately get back on it . It will sometimes feel funny shifting gears during a turn with good amount of gas and some traction .

It WILL NOT wear out tires faster if you drive it normally . It WILL NOT break if you drive it normally .

It will give you awesome traction in dirt , mud and rocks .

The BEST mod you can make to an open axle short of buying a full case locker like a "real" Detroit locker .

Do it , you'll love it :D
 
skelly1 said:
As I recall, there are 2 lockers that are easily installed by the backyard mechanic. Lockright and true track or something like that. I remember one of them is good, the other is junk. I want one for my front D44. If I break it, I'll upgrade to a D60 and a detroit. For now, it's geared right and it's in the truck, so I'm going to throw a few hundred at it and call it good for now.
Click to expand...

Are you looking for just an easy install? Any locker can be installed with out messing up the gears if thats what your worried about. Check the pattern and backlash, take out the carrier, put the ring gear on the new carrier, put it back in , check pattern and back lash and its done! Its shouldnt change anyting.
 
Thanks for the tips on price, tech, and what not. This will actually be going in my front axle to compliment the true Detroit in the rear 14BFF. Lockright made by Powertrax bought from Jeg's.
 
I'm looking for something cheap and easy for now while I search for the holy grail D60. That brings up another question: The front pinion is loose in the housing. Does this mean the crush sleave needs to be replaced and/or shimmed, tightened? I have a couple 10 bolts fronts that are more cherry but don't have the right gears, and they are in my yard, not under the truck.
 
rcpilot said:
I just installed the Lock-Rite in my 12B today... did'nt hear anything when I was driving around the block...the inner tire during the turn actually squaked (sp) when I got on the gas....

BTW... I got my Lock-Rite from Jegs for $208.00 and free shipping...check there site...they were the cheapest!!!
Click to expand...

What's your part number? I see $409 for a lockright for a Dana 44 from Jeg's.
 
skelly1 said:
I'm looking for something cheap and easy for now while I search for the holy grail D60. That brings up another question: The front pinion is loose in the housing. Does this mean the crush sleave needs to be replaced and/or shimmed, tightened? I have a couple 10 bolts fronts that are more cherry but don't have the right gears, and they are in my yard, not under the truck.
Click to expand...

Danas use shims to set the preload, not a crush sleeve. How long has it been loose? How loose?
 
pauly383k10 said:
I bought a Quic LOC/Detroit EZ Locker , and it was removed 4 times by me until I got the right sized thrust washers in it to stop it from popping all the time for no reason , its going into a truck that I won't daily drive now . I have since taken it out and bought a Lockright .
Click to expand...

Now something is making sense to me. We installed a EZ locker to the front of my 75. Clicks all the time turning or driving straight down the road. I fully expected the popping in turns, but not driving straight. Where did you get your thrust washers and how thick did they need to be to stop the straight line popping. Keep in mind, the one I used had been installed and removed out of 2 other trucks for the same issue.

I'm real close to taking it out of mine if I can't resolve the issue. Sucks because I haven't wheeled with it in yet. any help you got Paul would sure be awesome!
 
ZooMad75 said:
Now something is making sense to me. We installed a EZ locker to the front of my 75. Clicks all the time turning or driving straight down the road. I fully expected the popping in turns, but not driving straight. Where did you get your thrust washers and how thick did they need to be to stop the straight line popping. Keep in mind, the one I used had been installed and removed out of 2 other trucks for the same issue.

I'm real close to taking it out of mine if I can't resolve the issue. Sucks because I haven't wheeled with it in yet. any help you got Paul would sure be awesome!
Click to expand...

After getting sent spider thrust washers from Ratech , I ordered some from DTS . I don't know the measurement , they sent me two sets and one was thicker than the other , but after a week or so it came back . I have no warning beforehand , it can drive all day fine and all of sudden pop 6-10 times in a row on solid ground pointing straight . Been in and out numerous times and it always comesback . It was still doing it occasionally when I pulled it . Never went away :dunno:

I am stuck with it too , I will never go to 4 wheel parts again , they say to bring in truck and pay them for gear oil so they can check it , yet owners manual say bring it back to dealer in the packing :mad:

Anyway , the best fix on my DD , which I still wheel , was a lockright . If the factory works with me the EZ may go in my other truck or my friends truck , but I have a mini spool just in case for my trail rig :k5: :k5:
 
Thanks Paul. At least I've got an idea what I'm up against. Mine won't pop in 2wd with the hubs unlocked. Mine pops when the hubs are locked in, 4hi or 4lo. Naturally it pops when turning, but the straight line popping is what really bugs me.

Could it be the springs are too strong and forcing the side gears out in any mode (straight or turning)? I'm not about to cut the springs, but there has got to be a reason they are disengaging when they shouldn't. Thrust washers make sense as they would limit the amount of movement side to side. I'm thinking how that was set up, if the thrust washers are too thick seems to me it might limit the movement of the sidegear and not allow it to unlock.

Sorry to hijack!:laugh:
 
No , not the springs . If anything the springs would be too weak . It is supposed to click around corners coasting in drive or even just holding the gas pedal . The pops are really just the side gears and couplers not staying together . It got better with the thick washers , but never stopped . I may try some longer springs if I can find some at a hardware store or something close enough , or stretch these springs and try that . Won't know until my truggy gets an engine and I can drive it .

As I understand it , some of these just were made chitty and they won't fess up to it . Maybe we should sell these , there was a guy a while back that wanted to buy broken lockers , like months back :k5: :k5:
 
Well that makes sense. Longer or stronger springs may help keep the assembly locked up. I just went out to the garage and looked at the side gears I pulled out to install the locker. Wanted to make sure we used the thrust washers that were on the original side gears. We did, sounds like they were too thin.

I've been looking at the tech-installation notes for both the Lock right and new Aussie locker (I'd look at the detroit stuff but can't find any!). Both the Lock right and Aussie locker info look for wear of the cross shaft and the housing/thrust washers. If the clearance is not within thier guidelines thicker thrust washers or replacing the case are in order. I just don't know what if any the ez locker is set up to have. So if I even can get different thrust washers what clearance setting is optimal? I'm willing to put some effort into this ez locker since it was free, but at some point its not worth tearing my axle to shreds due to the on-off-on action all the time. I might take my original side gears down to a local drivetrain shop in town here to see if they might be able to hook me up with an assortment of thrust washers to experiment with.

Funny thing is all my searching on the aussie lockers found extremely positive feedback. Most of that was found over on Pirate too! If anybody is going to rip a new product to shreds its those guys. Two reviews are over there, one solicited by Aussie locker, the other just one of the members that bought one for his own review. Both noted little to ZERO noise and positive locking action. Plus the Aussie locker is much cheaper than the rest of the lunchbox locker crowd. $225 for GM dana 44 on the Aussie locker website. If I can't get this ez locker sorted out, I might be up for an aussie locker (that is after I by my lift really soon!)
 
K5MONSTERCHEV said:
Danas use shims to set the preload, not a crush sleeve. How long has it been loose? How loose?
Click to expand...

I noticed it when it started leaking, truck is parked though. I would say it's pretty loose.
 
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