CK5
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locker
- Thread starter hunter43
- Start date
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Gears are extremely dependent on the transmission situation.
Up front the locker wont matter because the hubs are going to disconnect it. A Detroit is always a good option but an Aussie, Powertrax/Lockrite will get the job done too.
Out back if you drive it on the street hands down get yourself an ARB or an OX locker so you can turn it off. I drove with a Lockrite in the back of my rig for a long time and hated it. I would have to clutch in halfway around sharp turns to let it unlock, it would unload after I parked and bang, it would unload going down the street. Some will say detroits are much better but Ive had people tell me they do the same **** just not as violently.
Up front the locker wont matter because the hubs are going to disconnect it. A Detroit is always a good option but an Aussie, Powertrax/Lockrite will get the job done too.
Out back if you drive it on the street hands down get yourself an ARB or an OX locker so you can turn it off. I drove with a Lockrite in the back of my rig for a long time and hated it. I would have to clutch in halfway around sharp turns to let it unlock, it would unload after I parked and bang, it would unload going down the street. Some will say detroits are much better but Ive had people tell me they do the same **** just not as violently.
first question I would ask is what axles ?
some don't like lockers in the front unless upgrades shafts .
some don't like lockers in the front unless upgrades shafts .
beags86
Eastbound and Down
what trans are you running??
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Seems like a one question run away lol.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Yep.
Just for future referance as I see this didnt help the op as he never came back...
I got a detroit for my 14sf rear. It is the best upgrade I ever did. Works so smooth, I can do circles on the street and get no hopping etc. Ive heard the opposite of people running them in full floaters, idk if it has to do with the fact that the 14sf is a full case locker, and that the 14ff is a drop into the original carrier.... Only thing i found where it sucks is dont drive into your dads nice grassy yard and turn....
Only time ive had it unload or clunk was turning on the street and matting it at the same time and then going straight. It clunked but then all was fine.
I have a powertrax no slip up front and that seems to be pretty good too. I never have that engaged on the road, but it works great for all offroad i have used it for.
One thing i will say though, if you lock the front at all, do the full circle snap ring upgrade on the front axle shafts. I already popped on cap off and ruined a chromo shaft becasue it blew the yoke apart from dune running after it popped out.
I got a detroit for my 14sf rear. It is the best upgrade I ever did. Works so smooth, I can do circles on the street and get no hopping etc. Ive heard the opposite of people running them in full floaters, idk if it has to do with the fact that the 14sf is a full case locker, and that the 14ff is a drop into the original carrier.... Only thing i found where it sucks is dont drive into your dads nice grassy yard and turn....
Only time ive had it unload or clunk was turning on the street and matting it at the same time and then going straight. It clunked but then all was fine. I have a powertrax no slip up front and that seems to be pretty good too. I never have that engaged on the road, but it works great for all offroad i have used it for.
One thing i will say though, if you lock the front at all, do the full circle snap ring upgrade on the front axle shafts. I already popped on cap off and ruined a chromo shaft becasue it blew the yoke apart from dune running after it popped out.
I have Dana 44 front GM 12 in the rear. Sm465 trans. The truck has no GO! I'm only on 35in tires. I'm going to beef up the gears 4.56?? I might go to 38in tires in the future. but I figured while I was in the rear end I should add a locker.
For 38" tires, I would look into a 3/4 (or better yet, 1 ton) swap.
Martin
Martin
beags86
Eastbound and Down
this would help with a No Go situation.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I ran 38's for years on a 10 bolt/12 bolt combo, I think it would be fine on a pavement pounder.
This.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Switch to 3/4 tons and leave it alone at 35s or you'll be asking for trouble up front. I would recommend 4.10s with a stick, 4.56s with a non of auto and 4.88s or 5.13s with an od auto.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
True. If I was mine I would go full out. But I used that combo as a weekend toy and oddly enough never blew a front. The rears took a beating though. So many of us overbuild. What does he really need.
79HeavyChevy
1/2 ton status
My truck is a 350 with sm465, Dana 44 & 12 bolt with 4.56. On 35s it feels over geared to me, with my 38s before it was about right. I can't keep front shafts in it so its currently parked while I search for 1 tons, and I want to go back to about a 40" tire.
