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Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by takebackthepower, Feb 20, 2006.
can you weld the diff's instead of getting lockers???
yes, but what size tires, and what type of diffs?
I welded up the front 10 bolt diff, before i got the LocRite, i hated the front being welded, couldn't steer worth a sheot while front hubs were engaged.
I highly recommend a locker unit for the front at least.
as of now it has 35in tires, and just the stock 10-bolt, i think i would only want to weld the back end.
Can you tell between a locker and weld (back only), does it drive different, what would you suggest???
If a welded rear end acted as well as a locker, why would anyone ever buy one? A locker will actually unlock in corners on the street and will be much more enjoyable if you have to drive the vehicle for any distance. They will act the same when in 4 low. If you are considering welding either of your diffs, I would recommend an aussie locker instead (but beware that you will probably be breaking shafts with 35's on a locked axle).
you will get very fast tire wear, and it WILL drive differently unless the rear wheels can unlock when turning,,,again, i highly suggust just spending the cash on a locker unit, you will be much happier with it.
Thank you both for your input
I think im going to spend the money and get a locker
NOW here is another question... which is the best locker to go with? ABR or a Detroit...
And if i get a locker with the 35's, Am i still goign to be breaking shafts
What about a lockright? i think they are around 250 and you dont need to set the gears up again, from what little i know also should hold up under 35" tiers. Let me know guys if i am wrong.
Lock-rights are only about $225-250 at Summit right now (after "instant rebate"). Maybe a teeny bit more, depending on application.
what does a lock-rights do that a normal locker does not?and/or why is so much cheaper
1. They fit inside the existing open axle carrier , so they cost less .
2. They cost less , did I mention that already
Otherwise its very simmilar how they act . Drive mine to work everday locked in the rear . Very easy and predictable . You get used to it so quick , then its second nature to just drive it , like its a normal truck .
My burb is welded in the rear and it eat's the tires . 42" swampers are not cheap but I don't drive my rig that much but only to and from wheeling trips . I have a detroit in my crewcab and it eat's the tires but not as bad as a spool or welded rear . But it can get a little side way's on you in wet or slick conditions with a locker in back . as for the front I would not run a welded or spool and maybe go with a detroit or if fund's are low a lock right . My front 60 is open at this time and I thought of going with a lockright for now so I can use the extra $$ for my doubler and later go with a ARB or some other kind of manual locker . That being said if you are running a twin stick 205 you could still run a detroit or a spool up front and shift into 2wh low when turning and even better yet to have hydro assist steering . I would also say that running any 10bolt or dana 44 with a good locker and big tires on a big rig is asking for trouble and it would be wise to carry lot's of spares ( this subject has been beaten to death on ck5 ) . I worried when I had 36" iroks on the burb with a open 44 up front and even drove 1 wheeling trip with the 42" swamper's on the 44 front , lucky they were almost bald up front . I have even seen a locked 44 with 33" boggers break axles .
so why dont more people do the Lock-rights over a Detroit ???
and how much are dana 60's?
would it be better to just invest in F/B dana 60 with lockers for the long run?
would i be breaking shafts and whatnot with 60's locked with my 35's?
(and this is great info, thank you ALL )
I would think for mild 4 wheeling lock rights sell more than a detroit locker because most detroits replace the stock carrier . But for hardcore stuff it's gonna be full detriots or a spool in the rear and there are many option's for the front . as for just investing in a front d60 , that would be the best bet in the long run IF you are planning on going to bigger tires . You possibly could break stock d60 shafts with 35" tires but you would really have to beat on it for awhile . As far as cost of a front d60 it depend's on what they go for in your neck of the wood's . around my area I have seen them go from $800- $1500 . keep in mind you will have to swap to 8 lug wheel's and you would be better off running a corp 14bff in the long run than a d60 rear . hope that help's
Most would probably agree, more $ = heavy duty = less breakage. You might find LockRite best price at Randy's Ring & Pinion.
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