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Locking hubs in rear?

dremu

dremu

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I have this urge to flat-tow the Chalet, or maybe the '74 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif. It would be easier, me being lazy, to put some locking hubs on the rear axle, and just unlock them.

Yeah, I know, thieves or my psycho friends might just unlock them,and run off with the truck.

So besides an obscenely expensive full-floating kit for the 12-bolt (which is out of production anyway), what options do I have? I could put in a 14Bff, but then I gotta do the 8lug thing up front to the D44, and besides, 14B's don't have locking hubs anyway.

Any ideas? I'm too lazy to do the driveshaft thing /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Check with Blue Ox, they make a driveshaft disconnect, that is cable operated. A lot of those guys that are full time campers, with the big motor homes, use them withe the car they tow. I think (Blue Ox) they have a website.
 
could do the 14 bolt thing and get 2 extra axles, cut them shorter so they do not go into the carrier, they will spin free and be like unlocked. My buddy does that when he wants to have an open rear in his pickup(has a locker) he just has one shaft of course.
 
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could do the 14 bolt thing and get 2 extra axles, cut them shorter so they do not go into the carrier, they will spin free and be like unlocked. My buddy does that when he wants to have an open rear in his pickup(has a locker) he just has one shaft of course.

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WHAT? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif If I get this right you are going to change the shafts everytime you want to tow the thing! That is 4 times as much work as just pulling 4 bolts and pulling the driveshaft. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

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85K5 3/4ton, 14boltFF,10bolt, 9"lift,35"boggers,16.5x14 welds, big horse 406SBC/700R-4 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
 
For the effort and money you're talking, why don't you just buy yourself a good used cheap trailer! You can get 16 ft flatbeds around here for about $500! /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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could do the 14 bolt thing and get 2 extra axles, cut them shorter so they do not go into the carrier, they will spin free and be like unlocked. My buddy does that when he wants to have an open rear in his pickup(has a locker) he just has one shaft of course.

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WHAT? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif If I get this right you are going to change the shafts everytime you want to tow the thing! That is 4 times as much work as just pulling 4 bolts and pulling the driveshaft. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

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85K5 3/4ton, 14boltFF,10bolt, 9"lift,35"boggers,16.5x14 welds, big horse 406SBC/700R-4 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif


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Yeah it's more bolts but you dont have to climb under the truck t do it. If one of the trucks has a open diff then all you need to do is take one out and hte diff would free spin. If it has anysort of locker or LS then this is not going to work.
 
STILL! even one axle shaft is more work than just pulling the driveshaft. I would remove the tire/wheel unless some cheapy wheels are on the truck and that is some extra work. Besides crawling under your truck is a great idea to do every once and a while because you can inspect for cracks, leaks, and loose stuff. I would just throw the t-case in neutral like 4x4high said.

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85K5 3/4ton,14boltFF,10bolt,9"lift,35"boggers,16.5x14welds, big horse 406SBC/700R4 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
 
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STILL! even one axle shaft is more work than just pulling the driveshaft. I would remove the tire/wheel unless some cheapy wheels are on the truck and that is some extra work. Besides crawling under your truck is a great idea to do every once and a while because you can inspect for cracks, leaks, and loose stuff. I would just throw the t-case in neutral like 4x4high said.

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85K5 3/4ton,14boltFF,10bolt,9"lift,35"boggers,16.5x14welds, big horse 406SBC/700R4 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

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i beg to differ. i can pull a axle shaft or two faster than you can pull a drive shaft. no contest. it only takes a few min for each one. it will take you longer to get under the truck and get half of it done than it will for me to pull both sides and have one of the stub shafts installed.
Grant
 
It's only 4 bolts and a slip yoke! if air tools are not optional, with a good ratchet I can pull my shaft in less than 3 to 4 mins. Like I said I would put the t-case in neutral, that would take me 10 seconds. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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It's only 4 bolts and a slip yoke! if air tools are not optional, with a good ratchet I can pull my shaft in less than 3 to 4 mins. Like I said I would put the t-case in neutral, that would take me 10 seconds. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

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It's 8 bolts on his truck. His truck doen't have a slip yoke. Then you also need to pack something in the end of the tail shaft so it's not leaking fluid every where.
 
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It's 8 bolts on his truck. His truck doen't have a slip yoke. Then you also need to pack something in the end of the tail shaft so it's not leaking fluid every where.


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So how do you come up with 8 bolts and still have to pack something into the tail housing so it doesn't leak fluid every where if he doesn't have a slip yoke?
 
He's talking about a slip yoke in the shaft that can be removed by twisting that little dealy in a matter of seconds. You have to remember to properly phase your driveshaft if you do that though.
 
Ya'll are just too much! Think about it.... It's Four flippin bolts! You take the four bolts out of the yoke on the diff and then you tuck the driveshaft up against the frame rail and tie it up! With the front hubs disingaged, The rear will spin freely and you don't have to worry about seals or RTV, or any of that! Yes, it takes about 1 minute to pull a axle shaft, but WHY? Just roll under the truck, take four bolts or nuts off the yoke and be done with it! REALLY! /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
My thoughts exactly. I could pull my shaft almost as fast as a person could unlock rear hubs if they existed.

The nice thing about pulling your axle shaft would be that the only things turning would be the brake drums, not the R&P. That's about the only good reason I would consider pulling the shafts on a long distance run.
 
Another thing to think about on FF axles is that if there are no axles then the wheel bearings won't get any oil other than what is already there. The rotation of the ring & pinion is what makes oil travel down the axle shaft and into the wheel bearings.
 
I can't remember if it was decided that installing a cut 14bff axleshaft is a viable option to make a welded rear into and open rear.

I would actually like to do this to if it is ok on everything in the drivetrain. My tire wear with the welded rearend is pretty bad, and 35's are expensive.

How much fluid leaks out when you pull a 14bff axle on flat ground? Last time I pulled one I used a jackstand to elavate the axle I pulled. Thanks

Harley
 
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Another thing to think about on FF axles is that if there are no axles then the wheel bearings won't get any oil other than what is already there. The rotation of the Axle Shafts are what makes oil travel down the axle tube and into the wheel bearings.

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I fixed it for you! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif But right on! You had a great point and it's very true! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Semis are transported with the axle shafts removed.
I have yet to see a rig burn up a set of bearings due to being towed with the axle shafts removed.
If the diff is topped off with lube it will be fine.
The rig would have to be towed off camber the entire way to drain the lube out of the hubs and burn up bearings.
Going around corners and such will cause the lube to flow into the hub. It's not like there are baffles in the diff to keep the lube in one spot.
 
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