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lockright help?

dleroy43

dleroy43

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I put a lockright into my D60. It drives the passenger side fine but not the drivers side.I tested it before I drove and all seemed normal. When the wheel has weight on it and I give it gas, it just clicks/slips. I have put new springs and pins in. I have also added more thrust washers to make it tighter than the 5/32 recomended gap. I have been taking this thing apart many time the last two weeks and it still is not working. Any ideas or help?
 
My best idea is to pull it all out inspect. Have lockright front 10b and rear 12b and no problems.

CB
 
dleroy43 said:
I have also added more thrust washers to make it tighter than the 5/32 recomended gap.
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?? I'm not fam with the D60 kit but the 10B doesn't have adjustment IIRC. I would think any deviation from nominal gap will change the torque split?
 
What brand ? New or used ?

I have no problems with the Powetrax ( Richmond ) Lockright , but had problems with the QuicLoc/Detroit EZ Locker .

Mine would however work wheeling , even though it slipped on the street in my rearend .

I tried the different thrust washers thing too , and it would go away for awhile and then comeback right after I posted up that all was well .

Look for the teeth edges to be rounded , and wear marks on the pinion shaft .
 
I bought it used but there were no marks on the teeth but from the two times I tested it I could see wear already. I did have the gap between the two halves at 5/32. When it was there, there was no pressure for the springs so one fell out. When the pins are in the two halve barly seperate, this doesnt seem right to me. I put in some longer springs to seperate it better but it did the same. I ordered new springs and thrust washers and dubble cheaked everything. it just has a louder click now.
 
dleroy43 said:
I bought it used but there were no marks on the teeth but from the two times I tested it I could see wear already. I did have the gap between the two halves at 5/32. When it was there, there was no pressure for the springs so one fell out. When the pins are in the two halve barly seperate, this doesnt seem right to me. I put in some longer springs to seperate it better but it did the same. I ordered new springs and thrust washers and dubble cheaked everything. it just has a louder click now.
Click to expand...
Did you get their instructions? If not, they're on their site.:confused:
 
I looked at the instuction from there site and looked a couple install writeups but my truck is always difficult when things are supposed to bolt up or slip in, it never does thats where half my parts in my garage come from.

I think I am just going to go piss on it and see what happens
 
dleroy43 said:
I looked at the instuction from there site and looked a couple install writeups but my truck is always difficult when things are supposed to bolt up or slip in, it never does thats where half my parts in my garage come from.

I think I am just going to go piss on it and see what happens
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Yea, I remember the instructions were a bit of a minefield; I've only done corp. 10B Lockrite and PowerTrax. And one of the springs did take off for the fifith dimension.:haha:
 
I put some longer pins in today, it trys to move the tire till it clicks now:crazy: . I did notice that the there is a lot of twist in the two halves before it turns the other side. The pins seem very small compared to the holes in the couplers. How much larger is the hole supposed to be? Perhaps the holes are worn out :( ?
 
You don't want to fart around with changing things . Just get a replacement pin and spring kit .

The way it is SUPPOSED to work is by the crosshaft turning with the carrier , the tires/axles sitting there waiting with the drivers on the axles , the shaft hitting the couplers , ramping them out , they hit the drivers tight and lock , thus turning the axles/tires .

They springs do not need to be any tighter , the pins do not need to be any longer . It can be loose enough to pry with a small screwdriver or your finger and still not fall out .

And they are supposed to click when the couplers and drivers overrun each other , thats what they do .

Sounds to me it is either worn out , or the wrong application somehow .

What other axles have the same spline count and could possibly fit :thinking:
 
I put new springs and pins in last night and they fell out.
they are not supposed to slip under throdle which it does
it is probly worn out another reason for me to not like Pirate4x4 and or texans
 
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well called richmond gear and they said it should be working. :surepal: N.S! if the pin isnt dented and there are teeth on the couplers then it should be fine:confused: . He was also puzzled how one side works and the other doesnt. He suggested swaping sides and or adding more thrust washers. I already had to tap it in with a hammer. I dont think I f-up the installation so much that it wouldnt work. :doah: :dunno:
 
Don't know if this will help but I was at a point where I was stuck, for days. Of course it was the weekend so a phone number was no help, said leave a message; they never did call back. What I had done was overlooked the washers in the stock set-up, and the instructions did say to pay particular attention to it, obviously a very common occurence. Those washers are such a perfect fit, even looking at them you can't see them. Fished them out, everything fit.
I'll say one thing, you sure don't give up.
 
its just pissing me off becouse it SHOULD be working there isnt enough parts to couse this much irritation. Do you mean the thrust washers? I added more of those. Ill try tomarrow then if it doesnt work then the open is going back in.
 
dleroy43 said:
... another reason for me to not like Pirate4x4...
Click to expand...

Boy... that's no lie. I've been on that board for two days now and people are already being cock-smokers. :rolleyes:

Oh... no help with the diff. Sorry.
 
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