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LockRight lockers

They are good, just not as good as a Detroit. When mine was installed (thanks Marv) I was showed how it operated, pretty simple. I was told to install a new crosspin ( or crosshaft ) as this is the wearing item on these, and it is what locks them. The pressure of the street is what unlocks them. You will notice it pull sometimes when taking off or engine braking on the street, it may even make hard bang upon rengaging. On dirt I don't know its there , it just makes my truck climb. Thats what I can offer on this /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
They are ok lockers. I have one in the front axle of my truck. If I had the money I would have used a Detroit. The Detroit, ARB is stronger design but the lock rights are ok for normal wheeling. Big tires, horsepower, and a heavy foot and a lock right probably won't last.
 
I have been running a lockrite in the rear of my 70 chevelle for about 2 years now . It has about 20 --->12 to 11 second runs with absolutly no problems /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif and strait luanches everytime /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif. It also sees alot of street use. awsome performer. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I run one in the front works pretty well, I wouldnt run one in the rear though for they wear out fairly quick
 
Looks like the consensus is: adequate for front, step up to Detroits for rear.

Still saves me some $$$$
 
There is a member here K5Nutt I believe (formerly AZBlazer) that acutally lives in Grand Junction and I think he runs Lockrights (I think, I know they are lunchbox lockers) front and rear and has for years. I know Marv Springer ran them front and rear for years in his green K5. Wheeled the piss out of it too.
 
A guy on pirate (matt with the pumpkin for those who know him) runs a lock right in his front ford 60 with 42's. He has blown up a few shafts and such but the locker still works. Fred (FWP) runs them in his 60 and 1/2 ton DD and I have one in my 60 (just got finished/tested though -> thanx Harley... sorry about the BLM warning /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif) Russ (Baddog) blew one up in only a few runs in moab. Marv still runs one in the front of the buggy. As said above they are more common in the front.
 
Marv said when he was installing mine, that after several years he turned crosshaft around and ran it some more /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I have one in the 7.5" ford in the rear of my DD.

I intend on installing one in my front axle.

I'm going to try to get one for my Dana 60 front. I have a detroit in my 14 bolt.
 
Do you think one would Hold up in a 10 bolt with a Turbo 6.2? All i see is some mud when i go wheeling and the occasional railroad service road.
 
I don't think that any 10 bolt will hold up in the rear of a fullsize rig used off road.

The simple answer is just plain no.
 
I run them front and rear in my 10 bolts... I've made several posts about it in the last few months alone.

Right now Jegs has them for $200. Other than that, the cheapest place I've found is National Drivetrain.

If you've got the money for ARBs then buy ARBs. I wouldn't sink that kind of money into a 10 bolt though.
 
I think it largely depends on tire size and driving style. I'm far harder on my 10 bolt on the street.

I've broken spider gears... on the street. I've now got LockRights front and rear and all wheel disc. I'm pretty confident they'll survive 33" rubber. I think 35s might be iffy. I'm toying with the idea of going to 35s since I can't find any 33s so I just might find out.

The 14FF might be bulletproof but it adds 200lbs of unsprung weight to a vehicle. It also kills groundclearance. Some of it can be regained by shaving... but my 10 bolt is also shaved. So, it really comes down to tire size and driving style.
 
I have a winch. If I drag my diffs and bury myself, I'll pull myself out. At least I know my drivetrain will still be together. My 14 ff is shaved as well

In my days of 35s I still had a 14 bolt in the rear. 1/2 ton stuff failed twice on me with 31s and at that point I was done with it.

It's not my DD anymore though, and I don't wheel as if it were, if that makes any sense. Then again, who has 1 ton gear to baby their rig? /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

With 33s a 10 bolt might hold up to anything if it's in good shape, but for me, it's just not worth risking it with a 14 bolt being so cheap.
 
Yeah, I get what you're saying. If I ran 36" or bigger rubber I wouldn't bother with a 10 bolt. I'd throw the money at rear disc for the 14FF, turn it into a 13 bolt, and machine the hubs down so I can fit 6 lug wheels. In fact, I started doing this with my 14FF.

But... if you can get away with a 10 bolt then I think you're better off. Parts are dirt cheap and plentiful. The ground clearance is excellent and they weigh half what a 14FF does. To me, with my little 33s and 4500lbs fully-loaded weight, it makes sense. I don't think I'd rely on those front axleshafts for rockcrawling but other than that I don't see a problem with it.

Of course, now that I've been saying this I'll probably splatter something first time out this season. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
Don't you have a Suburban? If so, you're nowhere near 4500 lbs. Try 6500.

My 2wd 1 ton is 4900 lbs empty with a 1/2 tank of fuel. I'm betting my shortbed with the 1 ton gear, 4 speed, etc is every bit of 5,500, and when I get my bumpers/winch on I'll bet it'll be closer to 6k.

Suburban starts out heavy. You might have the aluminum tranny/case and 10 bolts but that body is 6 feet longer than mine to begin with and has much more interior. I'd bet it's significantly heavier than you think.
 
When I grenaded my rear spider gears I had 4.56's put in with a lock right in the front. I've loved every minute of it. Having something up front to help pull instead of just a push helps so much. Of course when the hubs are unlocked and the t-case is disengaged I don't even feel it. You can sure feel the difference with it in. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
84K10

My 84K10 has 305/700R4/NP208/3.42 ten bolts. It's still got A/C but all the emissions stuff is gone. When it was registered with the SOS it was registered as 4180lbs and it came with the plow package. The interior has been gutted to the point where there is no cardboard behind the seat. I already had no headliner and the short plastic door skins with manual locks and windows. Most of the firewall insulation is gone too. Everything that doesn't have a purpose has been removed, even the ESC computer. That includes cutting off some of the bracketry on the frame. I still have some stuff on there "that I might use someday". I've also got aftermarket doors and fenders which shave quite a bit more weight off the vehicle.

I've had it as light as 3840lbs with a full tank of gas. That was before the receivers, the second gas tank, the onboard air, the second battery, the truck box, et cetera. If I'd have yanked the tailgate, run 1/2 tank gas, and go without a bedmat (74lbs) I bet I could've got it down into the 3700lb range.

I really should weigh it again this summer with full gear. I carry a lot more weight in spare parts now than I used to and now I've got a 135+lb multimount winch setup.
 
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