Lockrite in a 14 bolt SF?

[Mikey von]

Would this be a good choice for a locker in my Suburban ?

I run mostly forest service trails. Dry, mud, and snow. We also use the suburban as a semi DD and as a DD in the snow. My wife drives it many a times when snow is present. It does not see much rock crawlin.

I am looking for more traction as my gravel driveway is steep and difficult in the snow. I also have students wanting me to go mudding with them all the time and it does not look good to get stuck!!

edit: I am favoring the Lockrite as I like to work on my truck and this seems like a project I can handle and learn how to do.

 

[Bowtie85]

I run a No-slip in my 97 shortbox. Its a D.D. and a street queen, and a summer vehicle only. So far no problems or suprises. Its a similar unit to the lockright. I was recommended not to put one of these in my 83 3/4 ton 14blt. S.F. I have read of people havin good luck in Dana 60's. I was recommened to somethin like an auburn or Detroit.

 

[Slapperbar]

I've got a Truetrak in my '91 V2500 'Burb and love it.

 

[dsmd58]

i have a lockrite in my 14blt sf that the p.o. put in....have had the truck for awhile now and now problems at all. i didnt even know that that combo was a no no....hmmmm

 

[Mikey von]

Bowtie, why did folks recomend you not putting a lockrite or No-slip?

Is a truetrak easy to install as well?

The main reason I am thinking lockrite is I here it is easy to install (not resetting the gears??) and can be done by a guy like me. I can wrench, but I have no special tools or experience in gears and traction devices.

What else is there that is easy to install?

 

[jonathanjay743]

I put a detroit locker in my 76" FJ40. It did just fine on the street & very well off-road. I had a shop set the backlash, but I know alot of people do it themselves. The detroits are phenominal in the snow even in 2 wheel drive.

 

[Chevy305]

do it! It comes with detailed instructions and its easy to install. I DD my truck that has a lock right in my rear 10bolt and its pretty smooth.

 

[Bowtie85]

I know its an easy install cause on my 10 it was real easy. I was recommended to a full posi/ locker for strength reasons. But bein my 83 is a mainly trail/ mud rig i think im gonna weld it b/c ive spent enough on my truck plus its a 14boltsf and its real easy to comeby. I would like to put the lockright in to try it but i dont have the funds.

 

[daleearnhardt01]

I highly recommend it, I just put one in my 14SF and love it so far... Very easy to install and work on as well... Plus it only costs ~300 bucks

 

[Mikey von]

thanks for the comments. I will be getting a lockrite for my 14blt sf. I will post up when I am done (it may be a few months).

thanks again!

 

[Chevy305]

Wow, it shouldn't take that long to install a lock right...

 

[Mikey von]

Wow, it shouldn't take that long to install a lock right...

lol, this is true. I am building my first house. While keeping the burb runnning is a priority, putting extras like lockers is not. I am slow anyhow and the wife loves to give me a hard time about spending money.

 

[user]

You really need to look at the differences between a truly locking differential and a limited-slip differential. When you use a locker, you're actually eliminating the "differential" aspect of the rear end, because all of the torque will be distributed equally to both wheels. This can be a real problem if you're not going straight at the time, especially when you hit the brakes. If your purpose is to be able to get out of situations where, for example, one wheel is completely off the ground, then a locker is a good choice.

I, myself, recommend the Eaton Detroit Tru-Trac, which is a limited slip differential, not a locker, but which relies on a system of helical gears rather than the sliding clutch disks used in a positraction differential. It's more selective and secure than positraction, since those gears do lock up the differential, but they do it in a more selective way than a locker. But it's not designed for situations where one wheel has no traction at all. There is a trick you can use to get it to work in that situation, though: you apply the brake slightly and with some pulsation in order to fool the differential.

 

[Chevy305]

You really need to look at the differences between a truly locking differential and a limited-slip differential. When you use a locker, you're actually eliminating the "differential" aspect of the rear end, because all of the torque will be distributed equally to both wheels. This can be a real problem if you're not going straight at the time, especially when you hit the brakes. If your purpose is to be able to get out of situations where, for example, one wheel is completely off the ground, then a locker is a good choice.

I, myself, recommend the Eaton Detroit Tru-Trac, which is a limited slip differential, not a locker, but which relies on a system of helical gears rather than the sliding clutch disks used in a positraction differential. It's more selective and secure than positraction, since those gears do lock up the differential, but they do it in a more selective way than a locker. But it's not designed for situations where one wheel has no traction at all. There is a trick you can use to get it to work in that situation, though: you apply the brake slightly and with some pulsation in order to fool the differential.

I have been running a lock right in my DD for about 2 years now. You do need to adjust your driving a little to compensate, but its easy to get used to control properly. The main adjustment being that its easy to fishtail in slick weather. But being in a burb, it would hold the road better because it has a lot more weight over the rear wheels than a stepside K10. In fact a lock right in a burb might actually be more road friendly than it is in my truck because of its massive rear end...