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Lookie what I scored

MaxPF

MaxPF

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 13, 2006
Posts
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Location
Chandler, Arizona
Well, my buddy found out the 10b housing he was going to use in his Cheep project was bent :(. He likes the 14b in my truck so much he has decided to get one to replace it. This has left him with some 10b parts that he needed to get rid of. Since I have a 10b front axle im my truck, I have decided to take the parts off his hands. So, let's see what we have:

PC280002-r.JPG


A brand new 4.56 Superior R&P set. This means I have to get a matching set of 4.56's for my 14b rear, but I was planning to anyway. This has just moved the timetable up a bit :D Now, it would be nice to put the gears on something other than my stock open carrier. Well, he happened to have this other part that he can no longer use:


PC280001-r.JPG


Mmmm, locker :bow: I can't wait to get it installed! :D
 
The 10 bolt housing I got from Marv I scored my front 4.56 from ? Sorry man , at least it only cost beer for the housing :wink1:

I had two more laying around , I didn't think to check em :dunno:
 
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pauly383 said:
The 10 bolt housing I got from Marv I socred my fron 4.56 from ? Sorry man , at least it only cost beer for the housing :wink1:

I had two more laying around , I didn't think to check em :dunno:
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Yeah, that's the one. He said he wants his beer back :wink1: :haha: Actually, I have a complete 10b that came out of my Blazer when I swapped in the 14b, but he didn't want it. He has been wanting a 14b ever since he saw mine, so he wasn't the least bit bummed about the bent housing. In fact, he's going to pick up a 14b tomorrow :D. I am getting the gears, locker, and bearings for what he has in 'em - $480 :deal:

So, do you need any stuff to make a 10b, 12b, or D44 into a full floater? ;).
 
desertrat67 said:
i have a set of 4.56s I am selling. pm if interested.
Click to expand...

It's probably a R&P for a 14bff though, right? I have a 14bsf. Actually, I just ordered 2 sets of Superior 4.56 R&P's. One is for me, and the other is for the 6 lug 14bsf my buddy just got to replace the bent 10b. The 2 sets of 14bsf Superiors costed me less than you would pay for a pair of 10b Yukons from PORC. Tellico has awesome prices on R&P's :bow:
 
desertrat67 said:
they were for a FF
Click to expand...

If you still have 'em, post 'em up in the for sale forums. You can probably get rid those gears faster than a box of Ho-Ho's in a room full of fat chicks :D
 
More goodies from the Man in Brown

Look what the UPS man brought:

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P1110003-r.JPG


Yup, another ELocker. This one is for my 14bsf rear. I also got the master rebuild kit. As soon as the gears show up I can install it. No more one-wheel peel :D
 
:bow: Maybe a stupid question but, why didn,t you take a ARB locker? this has four sattelite gears(which is stronger) instead of two and you have onboard-air with an ARB locker! is it the price that makes the difference?:bow:
 
the general said:
:bow: Maybe a stupid question but, why didn,t you take a ARB locker? this has four sattelite gears(which is stronger) instead of two and you have onboard-air with an ARB locker! is it the price that makes the difference?:bow:
Click to expand...
Cost is a biggie. I got 2 ELockers for the price of a single ARB and it's compressor. :deal: Even if I had paid full boat for both ELockers I would have saved $500 over the price of 2 ARBs with their compressor. A second reason is that the ELockers are zero maintenance, while the ARB will eventually need it's seals replaced. FInally, in this application the ELocker is actually stronger than the ARB. ARBs for c-clip axles like the 10b and 14bsf only have 2 spiders, not the 4 that the non-c clip ARBs have. However, the ARB uses regular top-hobbed gears. These gears only attach to their hub at the root, so all the force is concentrated at this point. The spiders in the ELocker are precision forgings. Because they are forged into shape they can have not only the root of the gears attached to the hub, but the ends as well. If you look at the gears in the pic you can see how the ends of the gear teeth are attached to the hub, thus spreading the load over twice the area as a regular hobbed gear. You can't manufacture a hobbed gear this way, since the tool cuts this area of the hub away in the process of cutting the gear teeth. Apparently Eaton's forged gears must hold up pretty well, because the only ELocker failures I have heard of are folks engaging it while the wheels are spinning at high speed (which Eaton's documentation specifically warns against doing, as does ARB's) and damaging the lock pins and/or side gear. Otherwise, they appear to be trouble free. If they have any hidden flaws, I will be the first to know :wink1:
 
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