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lookin for pics of juanblzer's suspension

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gm500hprat

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Debating spending the money and getting leaves from deaver r going with a coil spring setup(not coilover) John Currie is a friend of mine and he usually gives me one hell of a discount if he doesnt just give it too me. I can get the parts of for a link setup in the front cheaper than buying leafs for full price, but the leafs are just so much dang easier to mount. And I havent seen much done on linking the front end in either 3 or 4 with or without panhards. I read up on Juanblzer's rig and that is the first time I have seen a parallel 4 link with a panhard bar, Id like to see more pics if any one knows if he has a buildup thread somewhere, I already searched until my eyes were burning.

Anyways my application is a buggy based off a k15 chassis with a BBC. Pulling the entire body off.Bobbing the rearend buggy will have between 112-115 wheelbase and 145-149 over all length. 4 linking the rear its about 40% done. Looking for the most travel and stability over sand dunes and dezert. Dont rockcrawl. Anybody know what kind of travel their getting out of tuff countrys.

Im not set on leafs or coils Im looking for opinions on the different setups.

1. tuff countrys-how much travel.
2. deaver- worth spending the $600
3. tj type coil spring setup-
A.3 link panhard-
B.4link paralel with panhard-and does it work
 
go with alcan springs...there cheaper and imo just as good as deavers;)
 
they qouted me 250 a pop for rear springs...not sure on fronts. the custom make them to your vechicle...i have a set for the front but bought them from another member so i have no dea on price
 
Alcans all the way for custom springs. They make to your specifications, vehicle weight, use, needs, spring rates, length, lift, offset, everything.
 
any idea what kind of travel they are getting out of those things. looking for 5 in lift max. trying to keep a low cog while in the sand dunes. Deaver advertises like 12-14 front and 16-17 rear.
 
gm500hpwrat said:
1. tuff countrys-how much travel.
2. deaver- worth spending the $600
3. tj type coil spring setup-
A.3 link panhard-
B.4link paralel with panhard-and does it work
Click to expand...

I vote that you link it....

The tuff countrys will not travel that much.

Deavers are the shiznit, but you could link it for that much $$.

I've wheeled w/ Juan, and built several link systems myself. And although I'm very much a fan of leaf springs, for your application I'd think a linked/coil or linked/coilover system would be the ticket.

Your optoin 3A and 3B will both work well if set up properly. Either will handle the same, I think it is just more of a question of packaging. There is no way a 3 link can bind. A 4 link if not triangulated must be parallel not to bind. Sounds like you want a track bar, so you have your choice.

Hope I've helped.....

Marv
 
MaRV
Any opinions on the Alcan springs. I have heard they work well and are far cheaper. On the trackbar I've just seen that everyone runs them that are doing a 3 link or 4 link parallel in the front. What is the other option to a trackbar.
 
I have no direct experience w/ Alcans, but I have seen them on other trucks in action. Like Deaver, I think they build "top of the line" leafs....

Question is.... do you want leafs or links. Alcans may be cheaper than Deavers, but I'm assuming they still approach the cost of a linked system. Leafs are always easier. Is easy one of your considerations? I've made leafs work myself for alot of applications!

If you're pushing a lot of power (you said BB), leafs will never locate the axle like links. Not to say you can't have fun in a rig w/ leafs and a BB - just saying that linking locates the axle better.

What about total weight...? How much? what axles? Gonna be just for dunes?

Marv
 
Thanks Marv

I will be doing mainly sand dunes (80%) with some dezert. I just got my quote from alcan spring and although they are cheaper than deaver they still approach my cost of building a 4link up front.

My truck is as follows. BBC 468.th400.np205.rear corp 14bolt.Front 8 lug 44.

I dont know about weight. But what ever it is right now its going to be a lot less soon.I will be cutting off a large section of the rear part of the frame as well.

I just ordered a tube chassis from Hendrix motorsport to weld to my truck frame. i will not be running body skins.

It will look something like this

DSC_8764.jpg


So I guess my question would be now. any ideas what type of a link would be better up front for sand duning and some high speed dezert?

Also on my rear I was going to run a 4link thats like stephens where the lower arms are triangulated and the uppers are parallel. But some people have told me that setup is more for rock crawling and that i should either run the double triangulation or just triangulate the uppers and run the lowers parallel like a baja truck.
 
so you are turning your truck into the buggy? i thought myabe you were doin another project.
 
what is this hendrix motorsports you speak of??? do they gave a web site?
 
www.hendrixmotorsports.com . His chassis are awsome and low cost. He does great work. His chassis are based of toyota's, but they will fit pretty much any truck. Mine is a little custom. I actually purchased an x-chassis with no internal tubing. So its going to have the dovetailed buggy look in the rear.

Like this. But the front will look like the picture above


Picture_015.jpg
 
Art,

I don't want to pollute your thread w/ too much off topic stuff, but you and I should probably exchange build ideas....

Soon, I'll be starting "build 2" of my FunBuggy - w/ added emphasis on sand/high speed desert running. Here's an old photo of what it used to look like...
BB04_08.jpg

BB04_02.jpg


I have some crazy plans for the next build.....


gm500hpwrat said:
I will be doing mainly sand dunes (80%) with some dezert. I just got my quote from alcan spring and although they are cheaper than deaver they still approach my cost of building a 4link up front..
Click to expand...
I don't doubt this.... Top end leafs can be expensive! Another approach is to build around a stock application leaf spring - and replace them every couple of years cuz they're cheap!

gm500hpwrat said:
So I guess my question would be now. any ideas what type of a link would be better up front for sand duning and some high speed dezert? .
Click to expand...
Again... the world of wheelin' beats a path to your door! Going full hydro steer? or cross over drag link? I think a 3 link w/ track bar is probably going to be easiest to package around a front engine layout.

gm500hpwrat said:
Also on my rear I was going to run a 4link thats like stephens where the lower arms are triangulated and the uppers are parallel. But some people have told me that setup is more for rock crawling and that i should either run the double triangulation or just triangulate the uppers and run the lowers parallel like a baja truck.
Click to expand...
I disagree.... Lowers triangulated can work well. I plan on using a variation of this setup for my next build in the rear. I'll probably use 1/4 el. leafs for upper locators though. Although this is scoffed at by many, I've found it to work.... Sort of like this rear setup, but w/ the lowers going like this /\ ...
Beetle_56.jpg


Marv
 
Thanks Marv. Great ideas. I plan on doing the standard crossoversteering setup. The DIY type setup that ORD sales since I have not seen to many other options. I want to keep everything basic and simple. All my links are going to have left hand thread on one side and right hand on the other so they are fully adjustable. I get my parts from Currie cheap if not givin to me. I guess you can say they are my one and only sponsor. The reason I mention leaves is because I see rigs like the ones Campbell builds and they have leaves setup in the front, and from what John Currie tells me they do well in the sand and as an allround vehicle.Im going to use 2" .25 wall DOM for the link arms and I already have 2.5 1 1/4 thread johnny joints for link ends.BTF Bung inserts and trackbar and lower link arms tabs for axle end. Currie Jeep TJ coils front and rear if I link the front.I will be custom making the crossmember for the rear links to connect to out of 3x3 .25 square stock and have already plated my frame where its going to connect. I dont have a tubing bender so I will be making some very creative cutting with square tubing for my floor and firewall.
 
Kinda got lost a little, but thot I'd point out that if you go with links in the front that you really want to locate with a panhard bar rather than with triangulation.
Reason:
With triangulation the axle will go more or less straight up and down. Which sounds good until you consider that the draglink has some side to side change with suspension up & down movement. Enter Bumpsteer. :eek1:

FWIW it is rare that a desert race truck has truly parallel lower links. Usually they are slightly pointed towards the center at the frame end. The point of convergence is likely well fwd for the front bumper, but they do converge.
 
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