Looking at buying a Military K5

[WinslowS]

I want to get another K5 and especially a diesel. I am going to look at one this afternoon, here is the craigslist description:

Military Blazer. Must be US citizen. 4x4 all works. RUNS GOOD. New batteries, starter, alternator. Good tires. 6.2 liter diesel.


It is a 1984, the seller told me in email the odometer was under 40k. He also said it had minor rust issues, in the pictures it is olive green.

My questions are, what should I look for when inspecting the truck, and based on the limited information what do you think this truck is worth?

 

[Backroads]

I say its worth 1500 to 3000, tops. Any more than that, it better be in museum condition. Those trucks are everywhere, you can find deals out there. If you are going spend more money you might as well step up to a pickup based military truck with one ton drivetrain.

The military trucks have a hybrid 24 volt and 12 volt electrical system. The lights, etc run on 12v. 24 volts is used for the only for the starter, and the glow plugs. However, the 24v to the glow plugs gets dropped down to 12v at a resistor bank on the firewall before going to the glow plugs. The glowplugs themselves are normal 12v pieces. The starter is a 24v starter and should not be interchange with a 12v piece.

The truck was built with two alternators and two batteries. Some people convert the trucks to straight 12v, removing one alternator, and necessitating a new 12v starter. So when you said there is a new alternator (singular) and a new starter, I wonder if that's what they did. I like the 12v conversion, because if for some reason the battery or batteries are dead, you can jump start with another vehicle.

As far as stuff to look for, I'd say make sure all the lights work, stop lights and turn signals. I've had electric problems on two military trucks.

 

[WinslowS]

Thanks I appreciate the info.

 

[WinslowS]

Well I bought it today, the windshield is cracked, and the tailgate glass is trashed. The interior is pretty crapped out too, the turn signal arm is broken but has been ghetto rigged to work for turn signals only, no brights though.

They were asking 1800, I paid 1400, mainly because the engine was definitely cold when I arrived, and fired up quicker than my uncles 1999 F250 Diesel when it was only a year or two old. The transmission also shifted well when I test drove it.

Any advice on how to fix the turn signal lever without replacing the steering could?

 

[euzoa]

Buy a membership and search your heart out. 25 bucks better spent than on any haynes manual! you will have to pull the steering wheel and a few other things... http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html there ya go, thats the one i used. some guys on here use plexyglass for rear and/or side windows if they break 'em (pblaze725 has it as side windows)

 

[DokWatson]

They are nice trucks, just don't get butthurt over the endless electrical problems you will encounter. Also expect to replace anything made of rubber, the dry rot is always bad, especially the tranny vacuum lines. The steel soldiers CUCV forum is a good place for info. Having the TM's is also helpful. If you ever have any questions feel free to send me a PM, I've dealt with all kinds of weird CUCV problems

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaCUCV-TMdownloadpage.htm

 

[WinslowS]

I had a membership for three years but canceled it after I sold my old K5, I'm planning on starting that back up.
Thanks for the links both of yall.

 

[sweetk30]

simple search. im just picken by the way .....

but i nice and copy/paste here for you sir.

edited few lines to make it for your needs. as it was for key switch replace.

steering wheel puller

lock plate compressor

small reg screw driver and small curved pick.
-----------------------------------------------------
pop horn button

remove horn guts t-15 i think tourqs bit

remove big nut from center.

pop wheel with puller.

remove horn switch gut plate just slides off.

remove plastic lock plate cover.

compress the lock plate and remove the snap ring with screw drivr and pick.

remove lock plate slides off.

remove 1 tiny phillips screw in 4 way switch its spring loaded watch it dont blow all over and loose parts.

pull turn switch 3 small hex bolts and 1 for turn lever. ( not if just lever and main switch fine leave switch alone. and 3 screws holding it. just replace the arm only. )

drop steering at 2 nuts to dash bracket. then unbolt 4 bolts that hold bracket to shaft housing. this is behind the dash bezel cover few phillips screws.

unplug and feed wire up threw center and pull out the bad switch.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
reverse order. sounds hard but real easy. i can do in 10 min .

 

[DizturbedOne]

Must be US citizen.

Am I the only one that noticed this awesome salesman?

Did he make you show a birth certificate?

 

[euzoa]

to register prior govt property you MUST be a citizen. Its also Illegal to sell it to non citizens

 

[DizturbedOne]

ssshhh

It's far less funny that way

 

[Polski-Chevy]

Any advice on how to fix the turn signal lever without replacing the steering could?

I'd find someone selling a complete column with a key on CL.

That way you'll at least have a different ignition key from every other CUCV