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Looking at K5 for trail use, questions about tranny

ThunderOne

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Alabama
1988 K5 Blazer
The seller says the motor is crate motor with 30k miles and says he has the paperwork for everything. It was his grandpa's before he died and doesn't have use for it.

Questions I have:

He says the 4wd might not be "hooked up".. so how do I "hook it up?"
Also, he says there is a freshly built 700R transmission, however he says the transmission should probably the flushed several times in order to prevent the torque convertor from getting clogged. Also he said it will not go into reverse, but suspects that flushing it will fix the issue.

I may sound like a total idiot for believing what he said, but I need to know what I'm getting myself into. I own a 2004 Tacoma 5 speed and I am looking for a good Chevy to use on the trails. It doesn't have to be nice, but it has to be cheap and reliable and not super rusty.

Thanks to anyone with tips.

Some pics he sent me:
180757_10150178826904535_824209534_8785475_1700924_n.jpg

167197_10150178826209535_824209534_8785465_7531711_n.jpg

180069_10150178826284535_824209534_8785466_3474636_n.jpg

180397_10150178826344535_824209534_8785468_6349886_n.jpg

179009_10150178826414535_824209534_8785469_2130360_n.jpg

181929_10150178826554535_824209534_8785470_8089285_n.jpg

167717_10150178826654535_824209534_8785471_5074563_n.jpg

Back window regulator is out, but that is the least of my worries as long as the interior isn't super moldy. He says it's only been outside for 2 weeks.
169081_10150178826724535_824209534_8785472_1775507_n.jpg

180305_10150178826814535_824209534_8785473_2954073_n.jpg
 
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I'm no expert , but it sounds like he's feeding you a line of **** to make a sell. On needing to hook up the 4wd maybe needs a front driveshaft.
 
Trans is toast, or it could simply be low on fluid. I wouldn't bet on it being good for long though.

Sometimes if the light in the dash burns out or goes off people think the 4wd is broke, could be a front driveshaft too.

Ask for the paperwork for the 700 if he doesn't have it assume its toast
 
I'm no expert , but it sounds like he's feeding you a line of **** to make a sell. On needing to hook up the 4wd maybe needs a front driveshaft.
That's what I was thinking.. I could not comprehend "hooking up" the 4wd..

Anyways he said he did a flush on an older model car with the same transmission and it fixed the issue. However, I would like him to flush it before I drive it around, ya know?
 
Trans is toast, or it could simply be low on fluid. I wouldn't bet on it being good for long though.

Sometimes if the light in the dash burns out or goes off people think the 4wd is broke, could be a front driveshaft too.

Ask for the paperwork for the 700 if he doesn't have it assume its toast
So if it doesn't go in reverse that means the tranny is gone? Damn.. guess $1200 is too good to be true..
 
So if it doesn't go in reverse that means the tranny is gone? Damn.. guess $1200 is too good to be true..
I'm going to look at it on Friday, I'll see if he can flush it before then. He did say he had a stack of paperwork for the truck.

What signs do I like for if the transmission is starting to go?

Sorry for triple posting.. I just want to be able to post pics of it.
 
So if it doesn't go in reverse that means the tranny is gone? Damn.. guess $1200 is too good to be true..

However , if the body is in good shape it might make a good project if that's what your looking to do. But a trans flush is a maintenance thing not a repair.
 
However , if the body is in good shape it might make a good project if that's what your looking to do. But a trans flush is a maintenance thing not a repair.
I may have a donor blazer I could part out. I am about to post pics anyways and you can give me y'alls opinions on it. it's not in the greatest shape, but it's just going to be a trail toy. I would really just rather not have to go swapping out the transmission right after I buy it. At best that's probably an extra $500.
 
That looks like a good starting point for a trail rig , but a broke trans is a broke trans. Offer like 800 bucks. A rebuilt 700r4 is around 1500 bucks maybe find one at a pull a part place for cheap.
 
1988 K5 Blazer
The seller says the motor is crate motor with 30k miles and says he has the paperwork for everything. It was his grandpa's before he died and doesn't have use for it.

Questions I have:

He says the 4wd might not be "hooked up".. so how do I "hook it up?"
Also, he says there is a freshly built 700R transmission, however he says the transmission should probably the flushed several times in order to prevent the torque convertor from getting clogged. Also he said it will not go into reverse, but suspects that flushing it will fix the issue.

I may sound like a total idiot for believing what he said, but I need to know what I'm getting myself into. I own a 2004 Tacoma 5 speed and I am looking for a good Chevy to use on the trails. It doesn't have to be nice, but it has to be cheap and reliable and not super rusty.

Thanks to anyone with tips.

Some pics he sent me:
180757_10150178826904535_824209534_8785475_1700924_n.jpg

167197_10150178826209535_824209534_8785465_7531711_n.jpg

180069_10150178826284535_824209534_8785466_3474636_n.jpg

180397_10150178826344535_824209534_8785468_6349886_n.jpg

179009_10150178826414535_824209534_8785469_2130360_n.jpg

181929_10150178826554535_824209534_8785470_8089285_n.jpg

167717_10150178826654535_824209534_8785471_5074563_n.jpg

Back window regulator is out, but that is the least of my worries as long as the interior isn't super moldy. He says it's only been outside for 2 weeks.
169081_10150178826724535_824209534_8785472_1775507_n.jpg

180305_10150178826814535_824209534_8785473_2954073_n.jpg


GM says trannys need their fluid changed like once every ten years (which I think is stupid)...basically if he thinks it needs to be flushed, the thing is trash.

My feelings with autos are, unless there is some form of legal documentation associated with it, it is essentially a time bomb as far as sale goes. There's no way to check friction material or thrust washers without removing the pump (well, you can check endplay on the bench, but that will only tell you if the case is usable really). You could check the fluid, but the seller could just as easily have flushed it recently too, and that still won't give you the % life the consumables still have.
 
I'd walk from that, Hell with that 700r4 i wouldnt have even called him. If its a trail toy get an older one with a th350 and with no power options. My 76 k5 has a 400SB q-jet/th350/203 178k miles power nothing and has tooken me an hour away to the local wheeling spot and back for some pretty extreme **** seeing as how the truck is almost completely stock without ever having to do more than pulling the front driveshaft to get home. 44/12 beats the 10/10 IMO. I'd be looking at a running k5 year 70-80 if i was getting a k5 for anything except DD duties.
 
It has been in the family since it was bought new...:haha:


Walk away!!!


Nice tape job on the rear window... And that dent looks really recent, look at the rust and then look at the color in the scratches on the dent...


Car Fax it... Or, look at the issue date on the title... That will tell you how long it's been in the name on the title...



Whatever, I say you need to lose this guy's phone number and fast...
 
If you can fix a "no reverse" problem in a 700 with a flush then I've been doing it wrong all these years. This is not an honest seller, be very cautious in your dealings.....:sign5:
 
Thanks everyone for your help. I will look at my friend's Blazer (that I planned on parting out) instead. If there is anything wrong with it then his dad will be willing to fix it for cheaper or for free since I am friends with his son. He does good work. I may also be able to drive it around a few days to see if it's worth buying, unlike one of these gamble buys.

Thanks again guys. I will keep everyone updated with news on the other Blazer.

In the meantime, I saw this one for sale near me. http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/2134886135.html
 
I think it all depends on the asking price. If you can get it super cheap, and its going to be a trail rig mostly you will be getting a tbi motor. If you're on a budget, pick up a used trans and throw it in there and get it on the road and go from there.
 
The one for $1550 might be a good one for you... Looks like it's all there and runs and drives... It's older, but easy to work on... Already has a lift... I say, go take a look at it...

The one with the burnt up 700r would have to be free for me to touch it... I've put in enough 700s to be gun shy...
 
I'd walk from that, Hell with that 700r4 i wouldnt have even called him. If its a trail toy get an older one with a th350 and with no power options. My 76 k5 has a 400SB q-jet/th350/203 178k miles power nothing and has tooken me an hour away to the local wheeling spot and back for some pretty extreme **** seeing as how the truck is almost completely stock without ever having to do more than pulling the front driveshaft to get home. 44/12 beats the 10/10 IMO. I'd be looking at a running k5 year 70-80 if i was getting a k5 for anything except DD duties.

The TH700R4 is very similar to a TH350. An SM465 would be better than either if you were looking for reliable.

A 44/12 = 10/10

1970-1980? What makes 1970-1972 better than a 1969?

I would look for a cheap TH700R4 (1987+ model) and haggle the guy on the price of that one. The TBI will be much nicer than a carb, and if it's a trail rig, the body work doesn't really matter. You also get a part time NP208, instead of a full time NP203.

Martin
 
The TH700R4 is very similar to a TH350. An SM465 would be better than either if you were looking for reliable.

A 44/12 = 10/10

1970-1980? What makes 1970-1972 better than a 1969?

I would look for a cheap TH700R4 (1987+ model) and haggle the guy on the price of that one. The TBI will be much nicer than a carb, and if it's a trail rig, the body work doesn't really matter. You also get a part time NP208, instead of a full time NP203.

Martin

I agree. Why not the 700? Sure, they can be more expensive and troublesome, but if you plan on driving the truck to the trail then the Overdrive in it could be a huge benefit for you. If you do go for the one in the first post, just make sure that you dont get bent over on it and have to eat a 1200 dollar tranny job. The 77 isn't bad though, just depends on what you are looking for and what you plan on doing with the truck. All good advice so far though. :waytogo:
 
Update everyone, I have been steered towards trying to get an ex-military Blazer instead. Fortunately I know of three that came from bases in Alabama with little to no rust. The kicker is that I will have to wait two years before I get a title for it and can legally drive in on the road.
Question is, how are the 400 transmissions in them? Also, how hard would it be to swap, say, a 3/4 ton set of axles in them? It seems that with 1 ton axles I would have to do a little bit of welding? Is the track width different between 3/4 and 1 ton?

I also plan on possible swapping a 502 in it down the road.. what all would be involved in a swap like that?
 
The CUCV sounds like a good option for ya. You'll want to get a turbo kit on the 6.2 though.

If the price is right and it runs, just run it as it is until ya gotta replace and upgrade.

The 400 tranny is very solid and heavy. I had a Jasper rebuilt 400 that outlasted the truck. It was in my 86 1/2 ton DD/work truck from 97 until this past year when I finally parted the truck out.

As soon as I get a hold of a 14 bolt I will be switching out axles. You could knock it out in a weekend, less if you gotta lift available.

Good luck, and remember drive it like you stole it! :waytogo:
 
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