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Looking at Restoring a 1974 Blazer and Need Parts Advice

rockymountain

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Hi,

I’ve been roaming around the forum for a few months as I contemplate restoring a 1974 Chevrolet Blazer. Going into this, I know I’m going to have locate replacement parts, so I was wondering two things:
  1. What are the hardest parts to find?
  2. What are the parts on the vehicle that tend to always have to be replaced during a restoration? (vehicle is in reasonable shape)
My plan is to restore it to original form. Appreciate the help and insights.
 
Anything specific to the full convertible side is hard to find as they don't reproduce them. Caps for the door frames are an item that comes to mind.

Full convertible squarebody blazers 73-75 have rocker boxes under the truck to add strength to the body. Those are not reproduced either and most are rotten by now. Without the structure the tub wants to fold into a taco at the door opening.

Rusty sheet metal is the obvious item that gets replace in a full restoration. Quarters, doors, rocker panels, floors and fenders are suspect as GM's rustproofing was little to nothing then. Hood and tailgate are prone too.

Look at @Chief Brody 's build on his full vert Blazer as it's pretty clear what he went through to restore his.
 
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Anything specific to the full convertible side is hard to find as they don't reproduce them. Caps for the door frames are an item that comes to mind.

Full convertible squarebody blazers 73-75 have rocker boxes under the truck to add strength to the body. Those are not reproduced either and most are rotten by now. Without the structure the tub wants to fold into a taco at the door opening.

Rusty sheet metal is the obvious item that gets replace in a full restoration. Quarters, doors, rocker panels, floors and fenders are suspect as GM's rustproofing was little to nothing then. Hood and tailgate are prone too.

Look at @Chief Brody 's build on his full vert Blazer as it's pretty clear what he went through to restore his.

Upper or lower caps?
The lower door caps they have now are plastic, whereas the originals were fiberglass. You can always buy the plastic ones to make a mould out of and then make your own out of fiberglass.
 
Upper or lower caps?
The lower door caps they have now are plastic, whereas the originals were fiberglass. You can always buy the plastic ones to make a mould out of and then make your own out of fiberglass.
Lower. But last time I looked for any I still had my '75. That was 5 years ago though. Had not looked since.

But you are right I'd rather have the fiberglass versions over plastic.
 
If you replace your doors, there are some reinforcement brackets you will want to cut out and keep to weld into the new ones. Also you have to cut the window frame as to my knowledge they don't sell 73-75 doors. My tub is heading to the body shop soon so we'll see what kind of shape the torsion box is in, probably bad,lol. I am at the rolling chassis stage on my build and have had no issues finding parts so far. The great thing about the square body era is that alot of stuff across 73-91 is interchangeable and is widely available cause they made millions of em
 
If you replace your doors, there are some reinforcement brackets you will want to cut out and keep to weld into the new ones. Also you have to cut the window frame as to my knowledge they don't sell 73-75 doors. My tub is heading to the body shop soon so we'll see what kind of shape the torsion box is in, probably bad,lol. I am at the rolling chassis stage on my build and have had no issues finding parts so far. The great thing about the square body era is that alot of stuff across 73-91 is interchangeable and is widely available cause they made millions of em

Good point for sure on the reinforcement brackets inside the doors. Keep this in mind, GM didn't sell replacement doors for 73-75 K5's even when they were new. You got a truck door and instructions how and where to cut the window frame. So you aren't limited to buying a 73-75 door, but you do need to keep the brackets and unique parts off of your old ones before pitching them.

Beyond the full vert specific stuff the rest is fully interchangeable to the rest of the squarebody years.
 
Beyond the full vert specific stuff the rest is fully interchangeable to the rest of the squarebody years.

For the most part this is true, but there were changes to things, like where the floor rises behind the front seats and also the frames because of that (I think that change happened in ‘80??). There are some other things that are different but to be safe it’s always best to either do your research or ask.
 
For the most part this is true, but there were changes to things, like where the floor rises behind the front seats and also the frames because of that (I think that change happened in ‘80??). There are some other things that are different but to be safe it’s always best to either do your research or ask.
The floor changed in '77. But yes, it's mostly interchangeable between the years. One could bolt a newer front clip on a round eye tub if they wanted, but it does require a modification in the cowl to allow for the later style rear hinge. Floor attachment for the rear seats differs between the ones that mount solid and the fold and tumble versions. 73-80 front frame horns differ from the 81-91 versions so the bumpers don't swap without some effort. As in anything, do the research.
 
I've read the door glass is thinner on the early full vert K5's and pickups,('73-'75 ?) and the window regulators are probably only compatible with the original thickness glass..
I remember a few customers at the junkyard bringing back windows they said they couldn't make fit that came from 76+ up trucks..but they were able to use the regulator & window as an assembly ..
 
I've read the door glass is thinner on the early full vert K5's and pickups,('73-'75 ?) and the window regulators are probably only compatible with the original thickness glass..
I remember a few customers at the junkyard bringing back windows they said they couldn't make fit that came from 76+ up trucks..but they were able to use the regulator & window as an assembly ..

I thought it was thicker since it needed to press against the weatherstripping to make a seal.
 
Pretty sure early is thicker, I have cut 85 doors on my 74 and had no issues either the hardtop and windows.
I have the original windows up in the rafters somewhere.
 
I could be wrong,its been 15 years since I was at the junkyard..all I remember is they didn't want to fit the original regulators..that and reading something about the glass being different here (I think)..
 
For what its worth the glass that came out of my 73 is .200 in. I must be bored(waiting on parts). I'm actually measuring glass. The thing to know @rockymountain , the guys on this site(not me) are true blazer jedis and they can help you with whatever you decide to do with your truck
 
For what its worth the glass that came out of my 73 is .200 in. I must be bored(waiting on parts). I'm actually measuring glass. The thing to know @rockymountain , the guys on this site(not me) are true blazer jedis and they can help you with whatever you decide to do with your truck

My full frame door glass is 0.197, but that’s from a door I bought from somebody so I don’t know the history of it. Can’t measure the one from my ‘89 that I know is original glass.
 
For what its worth the glass that came out of my 73 is .200 in. I must be bored(waiting on parts). I'm actually measuring glass. The thing to know @rockymountain , the guys on this site(not me) are true blazer jedis and they can help you with whatever you decide to do with your truck
I second and third this....
 
My original 74 windows also had an extra piece of metal on the sash to help keep the window from flexing away from the Hardtop seals.
 
Hi,

I’ve been roaming around the forum for a few months as I contemplate restoring a 1974 Chevrolet Blazer. Going into this, I know I’m going to have locate replacement parts, so I was wondering two things:
  1. What are the hardest parts to find?
  2. What are the parts on the vehicle that tend to always have to be replaced during a restoration? (vehicle is in reasonable shape)
My plan is to restore it to original form. Appreciate the help and insights.


Unfortunately most 1973-74 parts are hard to find now. Quarter panels may be available but they aren't accurate, you have to modify the braces to make them fit. Parts were hard to find 10 years ago, I'd hate to be looking for them now. That said, it all depends on what shape the Blazer you find is in....and how original you want to go with it.
 
Appreciate all the information and feedback:) I’m pretty sure I’ll have to get new upper and lower caps. I’m also having trouble finding the passenger bucket seat lower plastic, that covers jump latch behind handle. I’ll try to upload a picture of it.

I’m wary of aftermarket parts, as I’ve heard they don’t fit very well. Sounds like the search for parts will be intense!
 
Appreciate all the information and feedback:) I’m pretty sure I’ll have to get new upper and lower caps. I’m also having trouble finding the passenger bucket seat lower plastic, that covers jump latch behind handle. I’ll try to upload a picture of it.

I’m wary of aftermarket parts, as I’ve heard they don’t fit very well. Sounds like the search for parts will be intense!
Best join all the blazer sites you can find if only for the classified and parts. A lot of these guys that customize don't care about the original parts and will sell them if they haven't thrown them away
 
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