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Looking for a Painter

J

jddcarr

Registered Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Posts
8
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Location
Centennial, CO
I am working on a 1980 K5 Blazer (Silverado Package). Frame is done, Motor and Trans are rebuilt and in. Glass and steering column is in and that is it. The rest of the truck has (almost completely) all new factory sheet metal. It's not hung very straight and there are what I would call some handling dings, but the truck is very straight and almost all the way down. I need someone to paint it. Does anyone have a suggestion? Thanks so much and have a great day.

Justin
 
I think you should try and paint it yourself . Do some research and buy some equipment. GO FOR IT MAN!!!
 
Do the prep yourself. Then take it to a shop to have it sprayed. Saves a load of money.

Are you looking for a show, driver or wheeler quality?
 
Thanks for the vote of Confidence 4XFrankie. There are a bunch of reasons I don't want to take this on myself, Time as well as unfortunately not being set-up well enough to paint at my house. There are some things I am good at, and being an artist (like a painter) is not one of them. I want this to turn out good. It is so nice up to this point, I don't want to bring it down a notch by doing a crummy paint job. I am hoping for a nice driver quality paint job. Something equivalent to a factory paint job but not show quality. I am not the guy who would ever go to Maaco. It's going to be sweet when it's done and I am going to be selling my nice American Racing rims and 33 inch tires to get a different set-up. Truck is currently on a new 4 inch spring lift.
12573179_10207828144569106_464768943222586747_n.jpg
 
I would go start talking to shops. Like Wade said its the prep that puts alot of extra money into the paint job.
 
Yeah, I need to get busier calling some more shops. I have called a couple that have said they just do insurance work or they no longer do full paint jobs, just damage repair. I just thought there might be a guy on here who people used that they liked who is underground so to speak. With a friends help we have done a lot to get it ready for paint. The only thing in it is a steering column and the glass. The few rust areas in the cab are all repaired nicely with fresh metal. Most of the truck is new GM factory sheet metal. Just the hood which is in great shape and the cab are original.
 
4xfrankie said:
I think you should try and paint it yourself . Do some research and buy some equipment. GO FOR IT MAN!!!
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I would super strongly 100% disagree with this. Unless someone has a lot of experience, it's incredibly difficult to get a shop quality paint job at home. I would know... I paint a lot of equipment and have the equipment to paint with. I did my k5, long story short I had a shop completely repaint my k5.
 
jddcarr said:
Yeah, I need to get busier calling some more shops. I have called a couple that have said they just do insurance work or they no longer do full paint jobs, just damage repair, . I just thought there might be a guy on here who people used that they liked who is underground so to speak. With a friends help we have done a lot to get it ready for paint.
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I ran into the same problem. I live in a small town and our 1 and only body shop wouldn't do my k5, they only did collision repairs anymore. I wanted them to do my work because they had a great rep.... so i kept bugging them and turned out their painter liked side projects, and the owner let him do my k5 at the shop on weekends. I got a great deal and a killer paint job. Look for something similar if you can find that. I got a $5k paint job for half that.
 
I painted mine myself. It's not a really good job, as far as that goes. But I wanted the flaking gone, the black top gone. And I knew I would be scratching the hell out of it. I did this myself, for about 300 bucks. But its a 20 footer. Never painted before.



 
rjfguitar said:
I would super strongly 100% disagree with this. Unless someone has a lot of experience, it's incredibly difficult to get a shop quality paint job at home. I would know... I paint a lot of equipment and have the equipment to paint with. I did my k5, long story short I had a shop completely repaint my k5.
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Well,
rjfguitar said:
I would super strongly 100% disagree with this. Unless someone has a lot of experience, it's incredibly difficult to get a shop quality paint job at home. I would know... I paint a lot of equipment and have the equipment to paint with. I did my k5, long story short I had a shop completely repaint my k5.
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I have done a few repaints myself , and have helped many people do BUDGET paint jobs.Why you would 100% disagree on this is beyond me. If you are looking for a concours paint job have a shop do it. BUT, if you think you will be wheeling a lot and doing a lot of touch ups, a lot of people like doing Rustoleum paint jobs.I recently did a Rustoleum paint job on my 84 c-10 with a cheap HVLP gun and even did it outside . It took a while to cure hard enough to wetsand , but after I wetsanded it , the finish looked great. Many people have complemented me about the truck, and when I tell them it's Rustoleum ,they can't believe it. Ihave seen many budget paint jobs rival that of shops .
 
jddcarr said:
Thanks for the vote of Confidence 4XFrankie. There are a bunch of reasons I don't want to take this on myself, Time as well as unfortunately not being set-up well enough to paint at my house. There are some things I am good at, and being an artist (like a painter) is not one of them. I want this to turn out good. It is so nice up to this point, I don't want to bring it down a notch by doing a crummy paint job. I am hoping for a nice driver quality paint job. Something equivalent to a factory paint job but not show quality. I am not the guy who would ever go to Maaco. It's going to be sweet when it's done and I am going to be selling my nice American Racing rims and 33 inch tires to get a different set-up. Truck is currently on a new 4 inch spring lift.
12573179_10207828144569106_464768943222586747_n.jpg
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Nice Blazer. If you don't have the place to paint , I understand ,that is a must of getting a finish without dust/debrie in your paint . I have seen paint jobs from garages that turned out well ,after the garage was well cleaned. Man , don't let anyone tell you that you can't do it . If you want something bad enough you will get it. If it takes trial and error to get it right , then that's what it takes. If you have more money than time /patience , go ahead and have someone else do it.I think PPG products are very good paints.
 
blazinzuk said:
I would go start talking to shops. Like Wade said its the prep that puts alot of extra money into the paint job.
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Use a good high solids epoxy primer that "builds up",block sand the hell out of it. Use a" guide coat" to find high and low spots -repeat till no high /low spots. The higher quality of the products you use, the higher quality of the paint job will be.
 
For someone that is just wanting to get rid of their peeling paint and stop rust, squirting on some rustoleum with a $50 gun in their garage is just fine.

For those that are looking for a factory appearance, or better, paint job.... a professional body shop is the only answer.
 
Unusually I tend to agree.

Not because I haven't seen some stellar paint jobs come out of garages. But because in a body shop the ability to bake the car is huge to me.

Best paint job I was ever involved with was a dodge pickup. Painted it black with silver tribal flames.

We set up a paint booth with plastic. Put fans with filters in a bunch of places. It worked extremely well. Let the truck stay in there with the fans on and a heater on in the garage for a week.

Cost about 300 bucks to "make" a paint booth. He was about a grand into paint. It was a 4 day ordeal to set it all up.

So we were 1300 into it. Plus a ridiculous amount of work. Body shop had told him 2k to paint it.

He got lots of compliments and me and my buddy got several requests to paint again. We simply flat out said no.
 
Yeah, I am in that range where I am not looking for a show truck but do want a nice factory level job and I feel a shop is probably the best bet for me. I appreciate the encouragement though. I have a buddy who lives in Indiana who painted his Dodge Power Wagon in his garage and it was really nice. I think if my garage were such that I didn't have that center pillar and it were bigger with lighting and I had more free time I might try to take it on myself. With the center pillar the truck sits right against a wall leaving barely any space to walk, let alone paint. That is what I mean by a bad set-up. That and by the time I buy equipment and lighting and materials................for me I think getting a guy who can do the truck some justice would be the way to go. Love the stance on your truck Phil513. Is that a 35 inch tire on a 4 inch lift? I am going back to the Rally Rims with trim rings like you have. Love that look. Lots left to do but I have a vision for this thing and it will be a real keeper.
 
rjfguitar said:
For someone that is just wanting to get rid of their peeling paint and stop rust, squirting on some rustoleum with a $50 gun in their garage is just fine.
jddcarr said:
Yeah, I am in that range where I am not looking for a show truck but do want a nice factory level job and I feel a shop is probably the best bet for me. I appreciate the encouragement though. I have a buddy who lives in Indiana who painted his Dodge Power Wagon in his garage and it was really nice. I think if my garage were such that I didn't have that center pillar and it were bigger with lighting and I had more free time I might try to take it on myself. With the center pillar the truck sits right against a wall leaving barely any space to walk, let alone paint. That is what I mean by a bad set-up. That and by the time I buy equipment and lighting and materials................for me I think getting a guy who can do the truck some justice would be the way to go. Love the stance on your truck Phil513. Is that a 35 inch tire on a 4 inch lift? I am going back to the Rally Rims with trim rings like you have. Love that look. Lots left to do but I have a vision for this thing and it will be a real keeper.
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For those that are looking for a factory appearance, or better, paint job.... a professional body shop is the only answer.
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Justin, after you have replaced all of your sheetmetal , and everything like you have , I am sure you don't want to use a synthetic enamel paint like rustoleum. BUT, if you actually are going to use your truck and scratch it all up on trails and what not , it might actually make more sense -you will be able to touch up scratches and blend them into the paint easier and cheaper than using a base coat clear coat urethane.I am not saying that Rustoleum is better than real car paint in any way other than cost , and easy touch ups . My $900.00 wonder c-10 is a case in point where it actually made more sense to use Rustoleum. After I made sure the body work was lazer straight , two coats of industrial primer gray was laid down . after extensive wet sanding I used a flat black guide coat and block sanded until all high and low spots were eliminated . Then one more coat of primer ,sanded again with 600 grit to knock down any orange peel.Three coats of gloss sunrise red were laid down ,one coat per day letting it cure good before again using 600grit between coats. After the final coat I let it cure in the sun for two days before the wet sanding started . on up to 1500-2000 grit using foam sanding blocks . Iguess Iwas lucky because no runs and only minor orange peel , the only thing I had to contend with was little bugs here and there, and they were easily wet sanded out . I used meguires m105/ m205 using w-5000 wool pads on a variable speed dewalt buffer/ polisher. All this was a lot of work and working by myself took well over a week to complete. I myself had no choice but to use cheap products because I don't have the money, and could not justify ruining a high dollar paint job on the gravel roads I travel, so this made sense to me. Like I said earlier , I get compliments all the time , the paint has all the shine of any single stage urethane paint job I have ever seen , and cost me $250.00. So , the statement made by guitar is in my opinion just not true . This paint job looks every bit as good as a factory paint job. I only now wish I had mixed the paint with a darker red to match the original shade apple red . I have three older brothers that have experience in painting also, and I have learned from them , but hands on experience is key. Get a junk trunklid or hood and practice on that . There is nothing like the feeling of accomplishment you get after completing a paintjob and marveling at your handy work.My brothers also thought I was nuts for using Rustoleum, but they now agree that I made the right decision as per use of the truck . One of these days I will save up the coin and give this old truck a proper paint job , but for now I am totally satisfied with this.If you guys don't believe me ,give it a try yourself with a spray can of sun rise red and spray a small piece of metal and wetsand and polish it out- you won't believe how good it looks .Ican't post picks right now , but I promise you guys will see my 84 c-10, and my trazer .
 
I got a quote of 20k to paint the K5. This with nos doors, fenders, and rear tailgate. I would have had to weld and fix the rust myself. Seams like the cost was way too high.
 
wazzabie said:
I got a quote of 20k to paint the K5. This with nos doors, fenders, and rear tailgate. I would have had to weld and fix the rust myself. Seams like the cost was way too high.
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Was it Chip Foose?
 
wazzabie said:
I got a quote of 20k to paint the K5. This with nos doors, fenders, and rear tailgate. I would have had to weld and fix the rust myself. Seams like the cost was way too high.
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Lol. Try a different shop
 
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