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Looking for advice on gear ratios

Timmy2tone

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I'm looking for some advice on what gears to run in my '90 Blazer. Stock 350 TBI, 700R4 not sure of the stock factory gears I have now. I have 35" KO2's. She's a little lazy from a stop, shifts around 2000 RPM the torque converter locks up and runs out at around 55-60 mph at 900-1000 RPM. I don't want her screaming going down the interstate at 60 mph. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

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Good looking K5!

Have you checked the speedometer with a GPS? I am wondering if it ever got corrected for the larger tires.

Out of curiosity, does it still have the option code list in the glovebox? If it does, AND no one has swapped the axles, the axle ratio hopefully is a G code, and could have a G80 next in the list behind the ratio.

With 35s, 4:56 in 1/2 ton axles should be fair. I personally would go to 4:88 in a 14 bolt, semi-float 6 lug axle, but that requires cutting and welding new spring perches on, AND regear after you find the axle.
 
Good looking K5!

Have you checked the speedometer with a GPS? I am wondering if it ever got corrected for the larger tires.

Out of curiosity, does it still have the option code list in the glovebox? If it does, AND no one has swapped the axles, the axle ratio hopefully is a G code, and could have a G80 next in the list behind the ratio.

With 35s, 4:56 in 1/2 ton axles should be fair. I personally would go to 4:88 in a 14 bolt, semi-float 6 lug axle, but that requires cutting and welding new spring perches on, AND regear after you find the axle.
Thx. I do have the option code list in the glove box. What would the G code designate?
 
Thx. I do have the option code list in the glove box. What would the G code designate?
It will tell what ratio it left the factory with.

Mine had GT4, which is 3:73. A GU4 is a 3:08. There are others, as well.
 
It will tell what ratio it left the factory with.

Mine had GT4, which is 3:73. A GU4 is a 3:08. There are others, as well.
I thought I had a 3.73 but a friend said he thought it was a 3.42. Do you know what code for the 3.42?
 
Also the speedometer is reading 5 mph slower than GPS
At least you know that, which is helpful. I wouldn't worry about correcting it until you decide about the gear ratio change.
BUT! I would consider making it adjustable with DIP switches, either yourself, or get ahold of @sweetk30

Having it read off could possibly make the torque convertor lock-up work improperly if it is still controlled by the ECM, but it kinda sounds like yours may be all hydraulic if you are seeing it at 900 to 1000 rpm at 60 mph.
 
At least you know that, which is helpful. I wouldn't worry about correcting it until you decide about the gear ratio change.
BUT! I would consider making it adjustable with DIP switches, either yourself, or get ahold of @sweetk30

Having it read off could possibly make the torque convertor lock-up work improperly if it is still controlled by the ECM, but it kinda sounds like yours may be all hydraulic if you are seeing it at 900 to 1000 rpm at 60 mph.
I'm going to take her down the road tomorrow just to verify that is what I saw. What is a DIP switch?
 
with 35 at least 4.10, 4.56 will better. 4.56x .70 = 3.19 final gear ratio, 1865 rpm at 60mph. I personally have 700r4 and am running 4.88 on 33's. 3.42 in 4th. I think maybe I should have done 5.33 =3.73 in 4th
 
I'm going to take her down the road tomorrow just to verify that is what I saw. What is a DIP switch?
It's a small 2 position switch that solders onto a circuit board.
The factory DRAC module has jumpers soldered on. The switches make it easier to change the digital signal to the ECM and speedometer.
 
I just went out and checked. GU6
If it still has 3:42 gears, which it probably does, based on what you have observed, then 4:56 will make it a whole new truck!
I have 4:56 behind a big block with a 700R4, in my '70 K10. When it had 33's, it was more fun than now with the 35's. It wasn't a problem IMO with the smaller tires, due to what the terrain is like around here.
If you have more flat roads and such, 4:56 should be good.
Be prepared for an expensive gear swap for both axles. And the higher driveline speed will probably give you vibrations if the U joint angles are right.
 
with 35 at least 4.10, 4.56 will better. 4.56x .70 = 3.19 final gear ratio, 1865 rpm at 60mph. I personally have 700r4 and am running 4.88 on 33's. 3.42 in 4th. I think maybe I should have done 5.33 =3.73 in 4th
What would a final gear drive be with a 4.88?
 
If it still has 3:42 gears, which it probably does, based on what you have observed, then 4:56 will make it a whole new truck!
I have 4:56 behind a big block with a 700R4, in my '70 K10. When it had 33's, it was more fun than now with the 35's. It wasn't a problem IMO with the smaller tires, due to what the terrain is like around here.
If you have more flat roads and such, 4:56 should be good.
Be prepared for an expensive gear swap for both axles. And the higher driveline speed will probably give you vibrations if the U joint angles are right.
I'm also considering a Tom Woods Slip Yoke Eliminator with a double cardon drive shaft
 
If it still has 3:42 gears, which it probably does, based on what you have observed, then 4:56 will make it a whole new truck!
I have 4:56 behind a big block with a 700R4, in my '70 K10. When it had 33's, it was more fun than now with the 35's. It wasn't a problem IMO with the smaller tires, due to what the terrain is like around here.
If you have more flat roads and such, 4:56 should be good.
Be prepared for an expensive gear swap for both axles. And the higher driveline speed will probably give you vibrations if the U joint angles are right.
Thanks for the help
 
This handy calculator will tell you what your rpm will be based on tire size and the gear ratio you select.
 
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