K5DRAGER
1/2 ton status
I know there are some of you guys that make or know where to get 14 bolt brackets... anyone have them for a 12 bolt? Figured I'd ask around before I call TSM.
Thanks
Thanks
CK5
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Looking for cheap way to covert 12 bolt to discs
- Thread starter K5DRAGER
- Start date
LKJR
1/2 ton status
Don't quote me here but check with the camaro guys, I'm hoping someone will back me up here but i'd think maybe you could use a bracket off a camaro setup and use 2wd truck rotors or something, this thought has crossed my mind as well
87GMC
1/2 ton status
Aren't the 2wd rotors going to be 5-lug? I know the newer 2wd are 6-lug, but is the bolt pattern the same? If so you could use the parts off a newer 2wd.
Michael
1/2 ton status
The older 2WD rotors are 5 lug and the rotor doesn't come off seperate like on a 4WD. It's all made into the hub etc. Just use a 4WD front rotor and find some brackets for Caddy calipers...should be close to what the 14 bolts are using...anybody??
Seventy4Blazer
3/4 ton status
close but the olt patern is different. maybe if you talk to misfit he can custom make you a set. i am still waiting on my 14 bolt brackets. maybe tomorrow. i dunno.
Grant
Grant
solowookie
1/2 ton status
I asked misfit for a 10B set of backing plates, and he doesn't make them; I'm betting its the same story with the 12B.
I'm gathering the parts to do a rear disc swap on my 12 bolt as we speak.Click the "my ck5 pic's" in my sig. to check out the progress so far.
Did you redrill the rotors to 7/16" holes or did TSM?
Do a search on ebay. There is a guy there that makes brackets for cars/truck 12 bolt. Rotors would probably come from a 10 bolt. YOu would prbabl;y have to machine the inner hole to accept the center hub. TSM does the same only their kits come with brackets to use Monte-C calipers( non -ebrake) and rotors that are machined. A 12 bolt kit from them was quoted to me for $365 total for hard parts.....exlcuding the bearings, seals, and what not .
The key to making rear discs cheap is to give up on the parking brake.
The whole trick to building rear discs is the backing plate/mounting bracket.
I used 85 4x4 calipers and flex lines, and 95 4x4 front rotors. Then I took backing plates from the front of a 1980-ish 4x4. It just needed the center hole enlarged and a new bolt patter drilled to match what was on the backing plates for the drum brakes. Then I made a 1.5" spacer and it all bolted togther. I did this on a 14B S/F, but it was all 1/2-ton front stuff, so the same should work for a 12B and it all fits inside 15" wheels. The backing plate might not even need much modification then. And that rotor will fit right on your axleshaft perfectly. I put almost $150 into the project.
The whole trick to building rear discs is the backing plate/mounting bracket.
I used 85 4x4 calipers and flex lines, and 95 4x4 front rotors. Then I took backing plates from the front of a 1980-ish 4x4. It just needed the center hole enlarged and a new bolt patter drilled to match what was on the backing plates for the drum brakes. Then I made a 1.5" spacer and it all bolted togther. I did this on a 14B S/F, but it was all 1/2-ton front stuff, so the same should work for a 12B and it all fits inside 15" wheels. The backing plate might not even need much modification then. And that rotor will fit right on your axleshaft perfectly. I put almost $150 into the project.
TSM did the mods on the rotor but you could take it to any local machine shop and have it done as well.
Thumper
1/2 ton status
The way I did mine is this:
Take a set of front backing plates...
New front calipers...
New front rotors...
New front flexible lines...
A set of front wheel studs...
and a bit of time.
Remove all your stock rear stuff, including the axles. You have to knock out the stock rear wheel studs from the axle, and redrill it (one size smaller cause they have to press in tight to hold things) to fit the new front ones. Take your new rotor, and put it onto the axle from the inside... over the shaft so it fits to the back of the axle flange. Then you can install the new front studs from the back, and press them in to hold the rotor to the flange. Axle is done.
Take the stock backing plates (from the front) and I cut a slot in mine to allow the plate to slide over the axle tube again from the back, and place it tight to the back of the axle tube bracket. Heres where I had to do some creative grinding. It has to fit tight... the center hole of the plate has to be enlarged a bit so it can fit real flush. Then mark for your new holes, drill and bolt it on. I wasnt confident in the bolts holding things, so I tack welded the plate to the flange as a backup. Then you can slide in your axles and install your calipers and new rubber lines. Done...... well, there are a few more things involved than that, but thats the idea. It uses all the parts from a front Dana44 or 10 bolt on my 85 Jimmy. Costs are around $200.00 for the whole works from the rotors, right to the bolts for the clamp holding the lines in place.
The biggest thing is measurements. You have to check your own set ups to ensure that things will line up. It worked for me, but I suppose there is a possibility that there is one that it wont work for, then people will be raggin on me cause I said it would work. So, do your measurements, make sure things are lining up before you start cuttin etc.
The setup works very well. I had to remove the rear lines from the prop valve and splice them together so they ran straight to the rear. There may be a need for an adjustable prop valve, but I didnt need one.
I have a few pics on my gallery, just search for Thumper.
Mike
Take a set of front backing plates...
New front calipers...
New front rotors...
New front flexible lines...
A set of front wheel studs...
and a bit of time.
Remove all your stock rear stuff, including the axles. You have to knock out the stock rear wheel studs from the axle, and redrill it (one size smaller cause they have to press in tight to hold things) to fit the new front ones. Take your new rotor, and put it onto the axle from the inside... over the shaft so it fits to the back of the axle flange. Then you can install the new front studs from the back, and press them in to hold the rotor to the flange. Axle is done.
Take the stock backing plates (from the front) and I cut a slot in mine to allow the plate to slide over the axle tube again from the back, and place it tight to the back of the axle tube bracket. Heres where I had to do some creative grinding. It has to fit tight... the center hole of the plate has to be enlarged a bit so it can fit real flush. Then mark for your new holes, drill and bolt it on. I wasnt confident in the bolts holding things, so I tack welded the plate to the flange as a backup. Then you can slide in your axles and install your calipers and new rubber lines. Done...... well, there are a few more things involved than that, but thats the idea. It uses all the parts from a front Dana44 or 10 bolt on my 85 Jimmy. Costs are around $200.00 for the whole works from the rotors, right to the bolts for the clamp holding the lines in place.
The biggest thing is measurements. You have to check your own set ups to ensure that things will line up. It worked for me, but I suppose there is a possibility that there is one that it wont work for, then people will be raggin on me cause I said it would work. So, do your measurements, make sure things are lining up before you start cuttin etc.
The setup works very well. I had to remove the rear lines from the prop valve and splice them together so they ran straight to the rear. There may be a need for an adjustable prop valve, but I didnt need one.
I have a few pics on my gallery, just search for Thumper.
Mike
Any pictures? If you have any that would be a great help to see exactly what you are trying to explain. Thanks.
