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Looking for ideas on Engine upgrade

The1980BEAST

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I've been having alot of problems with my carb lately, flooding and bad throttle response. I was thinking about going to pane. The blazer see's about 50/50 road/ off-road so I think it will be worth it.

What I was wondering is if I should go TBI or Pane. And if I do should I try and fix my engine up or just drop a new one in. I'm trying to find a cheaper way out but I want it done right and not poorly.

It's a 1980 old and tired 350. I have 10 bolt in front and 12 bolt in rear with stock gearing and 35" tires, and the engine is slow pushing the tires on road yet alone off. I know I can regear but I'm waiting 'till I can get a D60 so I can do my axle swap.

Just want some opinions. I know there will be varrying ones and I just want to be convince on which way to go with this. I'm up for anything.
 
Propane is easier. One wire for a 12v switch to open and close a solenoid. Propane is a cheaper and cleaner fuel too. Propane is a good higher performance fuel too as it is a higher octane than gasoline. It doesnt leave any of the carbon behind like gasoline. Oil stays nice and clean too.

There is no point in putting money into axles for a re-gear if your ditching them.
 
My choice would be EFI of some sort (TBI will be the cheapest).

Yes propane burns clean, but it uses more to go the same distance as gasoline, doesn't make as much power as gasoline, and you must increase compression ratio close to 11:1 for propane to be effective. The octane of propane is not measured the same as gasoline so you cannot compare the two. Also, if you're on a trail ride and run out of propane unless someone else is running propane as well and has an extra tank you can borrow you're dead where you stopped. Gasoline, just siphon a couple gallons from a few people and keep going.
 
My choice would be EFI of some sort (TBI will be the cheapest).

Yes propane burns clean, but it uses more to go the same distance as gasoline, doesn't make as much power as gasoline, and you must increase compression ratio close to 11:1 for propane to be effective. The octane of propane is not measured the same as gasoline so you cannot compare the two. Also, if you're on a trail ride and run out of propane unless someone else is running propane as well and has an extra tank you can borrow you're dead where you stopped. Gasoline, just siphon a couple gallons from a few people and keep going.


Carry 2 bottles. Or get a larger 20 or 25 gal bottle as long as its got a pickup in the bottom. Propane is cheaper by the gallon here too.

What do you mean effective? It will run a lower compression motor, but ive seen many higher compression small blocks runs much better with propane.

Got to think of availability too. If there is not a close propane refill point, might be better with gas.
 
Carry 2 bottles. Or get a larger 20 or 25 gal bottle as long as its got a pickup in the bottom. Propane is cheaper by the gallon here too.

What do you mean effective? It will run a lower compression motor, but ive seen many higher compression small blocks runs much better with propane.

Got to think of availability too. If there is not a close propane refill point, might be better with gas.

When you're EMPTY it doesn't matter how big your tank is, it's still EMPTY. Yes you can carry an extra tank but i was still referring to when you're "EMPTY".

Propane may be cheaper while looking at initial cost but figure out the amount it uses versus gas and it will cost more.

"Effective" meaning an engine that is producing the amount of power it is capable of making, yes it will work on an engine with lower C/R but it will also not be as effiecient which means less mileage versus gas.

Naturally there is gasoline at every gas station but not propane (which i never even added to the pros/cons list).
 
If its truly a 50/50 road and trail rig, i think propane is a good option. All the tanks ive seen have some sort of gauge. Add fuel when it gets low, just like gas.

Now if its not truly a 50/50 rig then gas would make it simpler for sure.
 
The octane of propane is not measured the same as gasoline so you cannot compare the two.

Octane ratings are used to compare the fuel's resistance to detonation in relation to octane. Propane, when given an octane rating, is measured just like gasoline is.

Propane is ~110 octane.
 
This is not a DD however I do drive it sometimes but mostly just driving out to trails. So I'd say its pretty much 50/50. But I was reading another pane thread and they said that propane isn't as effective unless you make your engine geared more towards higher octane fuel. So if I go pane should I try and rebuild my engine? or swap in a new one? or what?
 
This is not a DD however I do drive it sometimes but mostly just driving out to trails. So I'd say its pretty much 50/50. But I was reading another pane thread and they said that propane isn't as effective unless you make your engine geared more towards higher octane fuel. So if I go pane should I try and rebuild my engine? or swap in a new one? or what?

Propane does not have as much energy per volume as gasoline. Just like diesel has more energy per volume compared to gasoline (this is part of the reason that diesel engines are more fuel efficient).

Propane, with its much higher octane rating, will work best with a very high compression ratio. A higher compression ratio is more efficient (as per thermodynamics) and will hence, lead to more power and better mileage.

Now, propane works fine with 8:1 compression but it might work better at 11-12:1.

If you're switching to propane, you certainly don't need to redo the motor for higher compression. You would get a little more out of it, but whether that's worth the money and effort is up to you.

IMO, its silly to redo the motor just to make a few percent more power from a raised compression ratio.
 
I understand but it wouldn't be just because of the pane like I said my engine and gear set up as of now is having a hard time pushing 35's through mud, so I guess what I'm asking is would it be more effective to purchase a D60 (already have 14BFF) and regear or try and do something with the engine to get some more power?
 
I understand but it wouldn't be just because of the pane like I said my engine and gear set up as of now is having a hard time pushing 35's through mud, so I guess what I'm asking is would it be more effective to purchase a D60 (already have 14BFF) and regear or try and do something with the engine to get some more power?


IMO gearing will give you more of the results your after. Putting you engine in the proper rpms to make power might change your mind about it being under powered.

I would do the axles first.
 

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