Looking for some axle upgrade advice...

[TheCaptain]

Hello all,

Well...my old project is finally getting painted next month. Now I just have to figure out all of the upgrades that the drive train should have so I can get all of the parts ready for when we put it back together.

Currently, it has the original 12 bolt locking rear and Dana 44 front with 33" tires. The original differentials are old and worn enough that they would need a rebuild as it is. Beyond that...the engine that's going in will have quite a bit more punch than it originally did. (At least a 383 crate engine.) The tires are probably going to stay at 33"...I'm probably more likely to tear up a beach than the side of a mountain.

With all of that being said...I'd appreciate some advice on the upgrade options out there. (Especially from those of you who know how to break stuff...you know who you are... ) I'd like something that will be safe and damn near bullet proof for many years to come, assuming 33"-35" tires an at least 450 ft/lbs of torque from the engine. The current stuff needs to be replaced or refreshed anyways, and I'm not afraid to upgrade some parts on whatever I end up going with...so keep that in mind.

Thanks for any thoughts or advice.

 

[ryoken]

a set of 3/4 tons... perfect time for it.. 3 to $500.. rebuild as nesc.. maybe a detroit out back... with 33's you may easily find the right gears and also a shave on the 14b would be helpful if clearance is an issue..

 

[chulisohombre]

Hello all,

Well...my old project is finally getting painted next month. Now I just have to figure out all of the upgrades that the drive train should have so I can get all of the parts ready for when we put it back together.

Currently, it has the original 12 bolt locking rear and Dana 44 front with 33" tires. The original differentials are old and worn enough that they would need a rebuild as it is. Beyond that...the engine that's going in will have quite a bit more punch than it originally did. (At least a 383 crate engine.) The tires are probably going to stay at 33"...I'm probably more likely to tear up a beach than the side of a mountain.

With all of that being said...I'd appreciate some advice on the upgrade options out there. (Especially from those of you who know how to break stuff...you know who you are... ) I'd like something that will be safe and damn near bullet proof for many years to come, assuming 33"-35" tires an at least 450 ft/lbs of torque from the engine. The current stuff needs to be replaced or refreshed anyways, and I'm not afraid to upgrade some parts on whatever I end up going with...so keep that in mind.

Thanks for any thoughts or advice.

if you are staying 33 inch tires,you shouldnt have any problem rebuilding your current axles.maybe upgrade the shafts and u joints in the axles.although i have broken my 12 bolt 3 times and upgraded to 3/4 ton.14 bolt ff out back and 3/4 outers on the front.my next axle upgrade will be yukon axle shafts and upgraded u joints.with the 3/4 ton u also have to get new rims and tires.change rear driveshaft or get conversion u joint.the conversion joint sucks though.i have replaced 3 times already.they just dont seem to hold up.so i will be having a new rear yolk put on to match the 14 bolt rear.with sand being your biggest obstacle,the axles you have now shopuld hold up pretty well with 33 to 35 inch tires.you may be able to get away with kepping the 44 and 12 bolt.but with that kind of horsepower and torque,it may be a lil much.i busted my one 12 bolt on the street with only 300 hp engine and 35s.so its a matter of what you think you need and how you drive your truck.i was 20 yrs old doing burnouts cause i just bought the truck and thought that was the thing to do back then.lol.500 dollars later i had anether 12 bolt under there and broke that wheeling in mohave desert.i should have upgraded to 3/4 ton then.would have saved me time and money in the end.good luck and lets see some pics of that fresh paint.

 

[Stomis]

Ditch the 12b. The cheapest way to go would be a 14b semi floater out of a 90's truck. 6 lug, can hold huge power, holds decent size tires, and no changing the front axle.

The expensive way which really isnt all that much would be to get some 3/4ton 8 lug axles, semi or full floater rear up to you here. Either 14b will handle any power you throw at it.

Now regardless I'd go with SOME sort of locker than eliminates the spider gears in the d44. I'd say that your shafts will be alright seeing as how your gonna run sand and you'll never really hit those bang moments of traction.

Other options for upgrades would be beefy ass u joints, heat treated and cryod r & p's (check out longfields website he does them very cheap), solid pinion spacers, and definately have the rear tubes welded all the way around to the pumpkin. You'll throw that pinion up real fast with that torque monster you want.

 

[Chaddy]

When you go 3/4 tons----14FF and a 44.....You will need rims to go with the 8 lug pattern, so account for that. Then I would get a Detroit for the 14ff, and limited slip or an arb for the front with hardend shafts with new ujoints, hubs, and ball joints.

I wouldnt run anything bigger than a 35 inch tire with this setup under a full size blazer.

 

[TheCaptain]

Thanks for the responses so far...I really appreciate the input.

For the rear, currently I'm leaning towards a 14 bolt SF with a few upgrades...I just wish it was a full floater. I think one of the standard widths of the 14 bolt SF will bring the rear width in line with the front too...bonus there.

I had actually toyed with the idea of using a Dana 60 for the rear. I know it would be a bit more work to make the change, but it can be built strong, still has decent clearance, and with a set of disc brakes - it's not as physically heavy as a 14 bolt FF.

What is the strongest front end I can get, short of going to a Dana 60? I saw the poll for 10 bolt vs. Dana 44...it looked like the 10 bolt was winning. How does a 10 bolt stack up against a Dana 44 HD? I read somewhere that it would have bigger axles, yoke, and spindles, etc. Possibly thicker tubes too? My current Dana 44 is an older one that has the flat top knuckles too, so I can always use those. If they are any good...are they hard to come by?

 

[Chaddy]

You could buy a 60 for the price of a built 44, and the baddest 44 isnt as strong as a stock 60. The 60 rear end is not as physically heavy as a 14 bolt FF, or as strong.

 

[Stomis]

14bsf trumphs a rear 60 any day. FF or not.

Keep the 44 put an LSD in front and get a later model 6 lug 14bsf. Cheapest and most cost effective. I really dont think you'll need new bling shafts running the sand.

 

[TheCaptain]

Thanks again for the input Chaddy and Stomis.

I talked to a guy who owns and runs the driveshaft and axle shop I've been planning on working with, and he was trying to steer me towards going with a 14 bolt SF and a Dana 44 from a 3/4 ton. Parts availability is good in my area, so I don't think we'll have a problem finding some 3/4 ton axles to rebuild.

I was really stuck on the idea of having a full floater...even if just for safety's sake. With that being said...everything I've been hearing and reading is telling me the 14 bolt SF is pretty damn solid. As much as I don't look for random excuses to spend more on the project than I already have...I'll probably still invest in a little extra beef on the axles anyways. I like having a some piece of mind when I decide it's time to fully depress the loud pedal. Beyond that, I'm planning on keeping this truck for a long, long time so I don't want to have to deal with lots of issues.

Anyone have any idea how easy/hard/expensive it is to get a good set of disc brakes (with a good functional parking brake) on a 14 bolt SF?

I also read somewhere that there were two widths for the 14 bsf...one would be 1.5" wider than a 10 or 12 bolt...is that true? If I can square the rear end width with the front, it should add a little extra stability and it would definitely a bit more 'right'.

 

[Trent Fabrication]

I say go 1 tons and be done with it. Unless you like working on your junk out in the woods. If you say 33's or 35's that means 37's or 40's in a few years. Go with a dana 60 up front and a 14 bolt full float in the rear and then let them eat.

 

[TheCaptain]

Well...speaking of one tons - I have another question for the axle gurus.

What are the approximate weight differences between a 12-bolt with drums, a 14 bolt sf with discs, and a slightly shaved 14 bolt ff with discs?