Looking for Someone in Colorado Springs to help rebuild Chevy 350.

[handloader90]

I have a '78 K10 with a 350 and 700r4. I'd say 2 or so months ago it started having problems. The current situation is I have a rod knocking, at least that's what I've been told from about 5 different people. I've called all the shops around here and I'm looking at about $2,600 - $3,000 to either have it rebuilt with mild performance parts or drop a re-manufactured engine in there and get it running.

I don't know a whole lot about engines but I want to tackle this myself with the help of a person who is knowledgeable in this specific engine. I would like to get it back into my truck and have the truck up and running in about a month or so. My Wife starts work in about a month or so and it will be hell trying to alternate between the running vehicle that we have.

Also, I have a garage and some tools, probably not all the tools I need to do this, but I can pick those up.

I can pick up an engine stand off of Craigslist for around $100.

If anybody is willing to help me out on this, please let me know.

 

[diesel4me]

I would suggest getting a new engine from a GM dealer,a Targetmaster 350 should be available cheaper than your quote for a rebuild.which might not turn out well in the end....you could probably pull the engine out and swap out the few things off your old one it'll need and install it yourself,thats not a really hard thing to learn to do--rebuilding an engine is though,and takes time to do it right...the new engine will have a warranty and likely run for a good 100K miles with no major repairs--not many rebuilts will have a good warranty or go that far..

 

[jonrpick]

Agreed... for even less money, but less reliability or insurance get a running, used motor off Craigslist. Between this website and YouTube and/or Google, you should be able to do the swap yourself and save a ton of money while gaining a lot of good experience in the meantime. Then you can slowly and methodically rebuild the factory motor as time and money allow without worrying about a deadline.

 

[diesel4me]

Personally I have always looked for good used engines in salvage yards or on craigslist and in "want ad" magazines in the past and was able to come up with a decent running engine for short money.and often one that was still in the vehicle and could be driven,or at least heard and inspected for oil pressure and smooth running which indicates even compression and no smoking or ticking noises...often salvage yards get low mileage wrecks and some also will buy good used engines from customers who crashed an older car that had just been gone thru,and dont want an outrageous price for it..

I've paid between 100 to 600 bucks for a good running GM V8 depending on the cubic inches and whether it was a small or big block..

One of my best scores was a 454 & TH400 with less than 50K in a big land yacht 1974 motor home that caught fire,I had to pull out it myself ,but the guy was willing to let me chop the thing up with a torch and sawsall as long as I hauled the remains off ,he wanted 250 for the engine and kept the rear dually axle,and I got over 300 in scrap just for the frame and aluminum skin off of it...he had a large rural property so he just made a bonfire with the interior stuff like the cabinets and paneling..

Today unfortunately its getting harder to come by carbed engines that are in decent shape,at least around here anyway...maybe in other states were things rot slower they are more plentiful still...here the old motor homes are about the only things left with a big block that might still run,and most likely never got driven very far...its a real chore to gut one,and most junkyards are not eager to take one even for free,many make you pay them to scrap it if it has a lot of fiberglass and wood in it...so you can make out if your willing to do some dirty work in order to get rid of the carcass...

Another thing you can do is call places that sell engines ,even Autozone sells some short and long blocks for under 1000 bucks...some my friends bought there have worked out well,others didn;t,but at least they had a warranty...many machine shops charge big bucks for work like boring ,but are not willing to stand behind an "old" engine if it decided to crack or have some other major malfunction...its getting harder to find decent machinists too,and thats why they get away with charging so much..the good ones are a month behind as far as work piling up !..

 

[handloader90]

Thanks for you guys's input. I want to stay small block. I looked on the pick'n'pull website here in Colorado Springs and they have some engines, don't know if there 305's, 350's or what. Guess I'll find out here soon.

I'm gonna go down there, hopefully with the help of someone else and pull and engine and drop it in my truck. They have a 31 day return policy on any part that doesn't work or fit, so I guess if the engine that get's pulled is truly f***ed I can bring it back and get another one or my money back.

I would love to get a GM crate engine or a Blueprint 383, but I'm not trying to spend that much money. Low budget on this one.

 

[handloader90]

Well I think I may have sourced an engine from another local member on here, so I guess now I just need to go check it our, purchase it and have it delivered. So if anyone is willing to help me do an engine swap please let me know. I'm guessing it should be simple, 350 for 350. I might want to swap my intake and carb from my current engine onto the new one. Its an Edelbrock performer.

I might need to get a new radiator too, but anyone willing to work on this with me please let me know.

I'll be picking up an engine hoist and maybe an engine stand, dont know if I'll need the engine stand right now for just a swap, but it couldn't hurt to have one sitting around. Unless someone has an engine hoist they could bring over with them.

Thanks again to everyone who has responded and given me their advice and to the the people who have messaged me and offered to help out.

 

[diesel4me]

You might want to replace some things while the engine is out,because its a hell of a lot easier...when I put a used engine in,I liked to replace the timing chain and gears,if they seemed loose or had high mileage,and made sure the oil pan was in good condition and not leaky at the gasket--and I always put a new set of freeze plugs in ,for cheap insurance...nothing sucks more than putting an engine in and discovering a leaky freeze plug behind the flywheel,or some other near impossible spot,and having to yank the motor out again..

Last engine swap I did ,I put a 86 small block 305 in a 79 C10,got the engine from a 86 van that had 120K but ran nice...the timing chain was loose and the cam gear was the original nylon one and teeth were coming off it,so I decided to buy a timing kit ,a new oil pump (because teeth were in the screen and may have been ingested) and a new screen and pump drive rod with the steel collar,to replace the crap nylon original that can break and let the pump stop pumping...

All that stuff along with an oil pan gasket and timing cover gasket set was only 65 bucks at autozone,and a freeze plug kit was about another 12 bucks...I also put a rebuilt water pump on while the engine was out,I hate bending over under a hood any more than I have too..
I also bought a new fuel pump for 15 bucks..

I wanted to trust the truck on long trips without fearing any troubles from those items..sometimes I got lucky and just dropped a used engine in as-is and had no issues,but for less than 100 bucks and a few hours of work thats a lot easier to do while its out I considered a bargain for the peace of mind I gained..I also put a new front pump seal in the tranny while the engine was out too,that was 6 bucks...

 

[paratrooper307]

Definitely if you're going with a used engine, replace some of those wear parts. New timing setup (maybe a cam too if so inclined), water pump, fuel pump, etc. Wouldn't hurt to check all the seals and gaskets, and replace them too. These parts can be had cheaply and can add peace of mind and potentially save a lot of aggravation down the road.

An engine stand will be useful if you plan on doing any work on the engine, but it's not absolutely necessary. If you can get one for a good price go for it.

Good luck! Engine replacement on these is pretty easy. With a buddy it is a weekend project if you take your time. It can be done alone but it is more of a hassle. Basic hand tools (Sockets and wrenches) should work just fine.

 

[handloader90]

Thanks for the good advice. I'll look into getting new freeze plugs and new gear drives and timing chain.

I'm planning at looking at this engine tomorrow and if all is good having it delivered to my home garage shortly after. Another member on here said he has a hoist and engine stand and would be able to help me do the swap.

 

[63chevyll]

I agree with others about checking and replacing common wear parts.

Some prices out in public for you to think about

These prices will be very close to typical parts store prices

Used engine from self serve yard

$275 (core and tax and fees)
$25 timing chain
$8 front cover gasket and seal
$13 freeze plug set
$25 water pump.....might was well
Total $376

Now say you want to get curious and pull heads to check out
$15 intake gaskets
$47 head gaskets
$5 misc cleaner scraper

And what about the oil pan...and the time taken to remove, clean and inspect. You still need to know what your even looking for....might as well toss a rear main in there ($17 seal and gasket)

You can have some cost start add up pretty quickly. Soon you have a $400+ used engine that you hope isnt cracked and knock. Yet horsepower is still unknown Shoot maybe it will only last a few weeks, but thats the gamble with any used engine. with how much time invested? Trip or two to salvage yard. Trip or two to parts store.

So when a used engine come up for $500 that all the above has been done it should be a decent deal. Then when I have an Better engine with new parts (machine shop hot tank and hone, cam , lifters, rings, oil pump, timing chain, all gaskets, WP, alum intake pulles and even some fresh paint) for more money you at least know why there is an extra cost.

a used with a guarantee from $500-$1200 is about fair price

Now every project and/or problem has a value and cost to fix it. You/we will either pay with cash, trade, parts, time, knowledge or skill to get the job done. Many times the more time you have the less you spend. and the oposite, if you have less time you will spend more. Everyone will have a different description of each and a way to accomplish. and a different value of the needed repair. Some guys will fix or replace an engine for $200 and some will spend $2000. boths dudes need to find the value in what they have.