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Looking to add a kill switch to 81 k5 blazer, need help with wiring.

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Good afternoon.

I just bought an 81 k5 blazer in Ecuador and I want to add a kill switch to the ignition (in addition to the one I will be using on the 12v supply to the distributor) and could use a little help with which wire to use. There is a flat bundle of I wires on the bottom of the column and 1 slightly larger pink wire on the top of the column. I wasn't able to find a diagram I was certain was correct because they don't match the amount or color of wires I see on my Blazer but from what i see i think maybe the pink wire is the 12v+ wire i need to splice to install my switch.

I have attached pictures showing the wires so hopefully that will help you help me determine which wire to use.


Thank you for the help.
 
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Not sure what pink wire you are talking about but that flat bundle is from your turn signal switch. Won’t do you any good for a kill switch.
 
Not sure what pink wire you are talking about but that flat bundle is from your turn signal switch. Won’t do you any good for a kill switch.
In the second picture there appears to be a dirty pink colored single wire ontop of the column. I'd like to make it so when I turn the key to start the truck it does nothing, doesn't power the radio or anything, i'd like it to act like its just dead. Do you know what wire in the dash would work to do this? I know the 12v wire to the coil will stop it from starting but i wouldn't want the engine flooded if someone did try to turn it over.
 
You gotta toggle to the right for the second picture.

Sorry, I'm going to ignore the under dash wiring for a moment. Best kill switch wiring is one not found. Do the wiring under the hood where it can be hidden or appear like factory. You can still run a switch or something clever into the truck, but the splice is better off outside the cab. (Also easier for you to deal with) Find ignition wire and hide a switch for that. If you want the truck to act dead, you can find the main power relay coming off the starter (I think) that feeds the fuse box. One switch can be hard to get to, use that for longer periods when the truck is parked. The more "reachable" switch could be for day to day driving.

Just a thought
 
And to add, some of us have gone the extra mile to NOT have a switch but to use factory switches/knobs/blower motors etc to ACT as a switch. Even if you find mine, there is a second inline that can't be bypassed without sounding the horn, if you haven't already.
 
And to add, some of us have gone the extra mile to NOT have a switch but to use factory switches/knobs/blower motors etc to ACT as a switch. Even if you find mine, there is a second inline that can't be bypassed without sounding the horn, if you haven't already.
I mostly understand what you are saying but which wire are you splicing in to in order to have these items ACT as a switch? Can these still be used for their normal functions? Would I be correct in assuming when using these items you wire this up to a relay instead of having the full power flow through them like a toggel switch?
 
So making it appear the battery is dead,the best place to open the circuit would be the fuse links. These are at the starter battery cable, and 1 possibly by the brake booster.
These bring all the power to the switch on the steering column, and the headlights.


Picture 2 appears to show the ignition switch actuator rod, not a wire. The wires will 10 gauge red wrapped in a loom with other smaller wires.
 
I mostly understand what you are saying but which wire are you splicing in to in order to have these items ACT as a switch?
Yes, the use a relays help with your goal. You don't even have to add power. Example: turn on you blower feeds power to the plug in the firewall. Tap off that, a tiny wire, to actuate a relay. That relay is inline with your starter "key on" wire that when cut...makes the truck seem dead. Relay cuts that line when dormant, blower motor gets power and feeds the relay, closes the circuit and allows the ignition key to work. You can actually double back with the power wire to keep the relay closed once the blower motor is off.

Turn the engine off and the system resets.

You need some paper and colored pens. Takes a while just drawing out a system that will work.
 
Problem comes...how do you turn the blower on with the truck dead? Could get REALLY cute and put a ball switch that only closes when the temperature control lever is in a specific position. Or use high beam switch, cigarette lighter to create a ground that closes a relay...
 
Thank you both for the help. That should be enough to get me started and I'll start planning out how I want to wire it up.
 
Good afternoon.

I just bought an 81 k5 blazer in Ecuador and I want to add a kill switch to the ignition (in addition to the one I will be using on the 12v supply to the distributor) and could use a little help with which wire to use. There is a flat bundle of I wires on the bottom of the column and 1 slightly larger pink wire on the top of the column. I wasn't able to find a diagram I was certain was correct because they don't match the amount or color of wires I see on my Blazer but from what i see i think maybe the pink wire is the 12v+ wire i need to splice to install my switch.

I have attached pictures showing the wires so hopefully that will help you help me determine which wire to use.


Thank you for the help.
Are you sure that's a wire?
Looks like the ignition rod from key to switch
 
Are you sure that's a wire?
Looks like the ignition rod from key to switch
No, I'm not sure, I was only guessing but I was wondering why it felt so stiff for a wire lol. Wes Harden pointed me in the right direction in a previous post.
 
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