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Looks like I found a toy (totaled, now gone)

M1009 k5 blazer. Simple build to become the offroad toy

red EOD

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Dove into the steering column last night. Looks like the ignition switch had been placed on the wrong spot in its gear teeth since it couldn't spin far enough forward to activate the starter. But even with the column torn apart and pushing that lever by hand the starter is still not responding. Looks like the wiring in the engine bay is intact so going to recharge the batteries then check if the starter has died. If the starter is no good then I'll finish removing the 24 volt stuff from the truck since it only has 1 alternator and no slave plug anyways.
 

red EOD

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Messed with it today. Took both batts home the other day to get charged at a 10amp setting. Both appeared to charge. Installed them on the k5 today with no effect. So removed that 3rd bump stop bracket to make starter access easier and hit the remote terminal with the power probe on 12v and nothing happened. Dropped the starter out and rigged it up on the service bed using jumper cables as 12v and it would spin slowly. Hooked up 2 known good batts as 24v with similar results, not nearly enough torque to consider spinning over an engine.

Since the starter is out for replacement anyways decided to go ahead and finish removing the last remnants of the 24v stuff and make it simply 12v. Ordering up a replacement starter brace tonight as well since it's missing and luckily hasn't broken anything yet.
 

obijuank5

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You got lucky on the block not being broken. I also saw some nos seat covers on Ebay if you're into that.
 

red EOD

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You got lucky on the block not being broken. I also saw some nos seat covers on Ebay if you're into that.

Yea very lucky. The 6.2 in my crew cab had that happen to it before I bought it and has studs welded in for the starter rather than bolts. For the seat I'm not worried about keeping it original, aiming to replace it after blazer bash.

Assembled most of the column last night. The new ignition switch won't release the key so I might put the old switch back in since it wasn't the problem. Turn signal assembly needs replacement, and the starter brace is supposed to arrive by tuesday.

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red EOD

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Column is assembled minus the electrical stuff since the turn signal and horn assemblies were damaged anyways. Also got the new 12v starter and brace installed. Haven't removed the 24v-12v stuff from the glow plug system yet so used some old jumper cables to bypass that and run the glow plugs for now. Primed the fuel system with the electric pump and..........


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It runs/drives. Took it on a few laps around the lot with no issues. Actually runs better than the 6.2 in my crew cab hahaha.
 

red EOD

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Mostly it just been filling in as winter beater but took it out yesterday to the desert west of the Salt Lake. Misjudged the drop off at one ledge and ended up with some body damage. Also swapped the driver/passenger seats out. Original passenger seat is in great shape and the glove storage location of the original driver seat is just, well, not exactly comfy hahaha.

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red EOD

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Money has slowed down the crew cab stuff for awhile (it's either finish the crew cab and be broke for summer, or have fun and do other smaller projects) the k5 will get more driving time this summer as well. So, might as well take advantage of the convertible capability haha.

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red EOD

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Finishing the gin poles got delayed until I have a operational welder, and can't afford to fix the Big 40 diesel right now, so made a alternator welder for the k5. Used a 13302n alternator from a 90's Dodge with the 12 valve Cummins. Externally regulated with 4 connection posts. Top 2 small posts are inputs, ground to the left (that my finger is on), positive to the right. The lower 2 posts are the output case ground (phillips screw bottom left) and of course the output positive that has it's own plastic housing, bottom right.

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Cranking out 31 volts and up to 130amps at idle. Going to make the box for the welding lead connections, 120v plug, remote throttle, and a on/off switch to activate the alternator when needed. Alternator won't be wired into the truck electrical system at all.

Not a new mod by any means, just a more powerful alternator than the old Ford units.

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Truckman4life

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I might have to look into doing this. A welder setup would be handy for my farm truck. How long you expect the alternator to last making that voltage?
 

red EOD

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I might have to look into doing this. A welder setup would be handy for my farm truck. How long you expect the alternator to last making that voltage?

Should be a long time. It's a decent sized alternator with lots of cooling ports so it should be able to maintain enough air to keep itself cool. And since the input + will be off when I don't need the welder/120v plug that should help as well. It's just along for the ride at that point haha.
 

diesel4me

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I saw a 24V Leece-Neville semi truck alternator someone made into a welder at the flea market,using a lawn tractor's engine to power it,they mounted it under the tractor where the mower deck was,and used double V belt pulleys to spin it--it would weld up to 5/16" steel the guy selling it claimed,and he was running beads with it on a 1/4" plate with 1/8" 6011 rods and they looked nice,good penetration and plenty of amps..

I thought it was pretty neat--a "riding welder" you can drive to the job site and use anywhere..

He said he'd made 12V ones in the past but they didn't hold up that long..also didn't have as much power..he said he used Ford 130+ amp units off Crown Vics,said that style was easier to wire up,he also used an old Dodge 100+ amp one off a 70's car and said that one welded the best and lasted longer than the Ford ones he used..

I dont know if he left the diodes & rectifier intact to get DC output or if he by-passed them and used the 3 phase AC instead..he had a pretty good crowd of gawkers and then a flea market staff guy said 'HEY--don't be welding here,someone's kid will get their eyes flashed!..they threatened to kick him out if he continued to demonstrate it..that was when I kept walking..:whistle:
 

red EOD

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The original regulated voltage of the alt doesn't really matter since the regulator gets bypassed anyways, but the 24v alt's are usually a larger alternator since they mostly come on heavier duty vehicles. Physically bigger and higher amps the alternator is, longer it should last in this application since the heat is what's going to kill it. Also cost quite a bit more. I've got about $140 in the alt and pulley.

Lot of threads over on Pirate about these with different alternators, the old Ford truck ones being common but they only put out 70-80amps.
 

Truckman4life

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Should be a long time. It's a decent sized alternator with lots of cooling ports so it should be able to maintain enough air to keep itself cool. And since the input + will be off when I don't need the welder/120v plug that should help as well. It's just along for the ride at that point haha.
Probably be the same alternator that my brother in law put on my Ford Cummins. He said it was the good Dodge alternator and a local shop converted it to internally regulated. Please post details as you do this as I am uneducated on it. Otherwise I'll Google when needed I guess.
I do have some random truck/equipment alternators here at work also.
 

red EOD

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Setup the onboard air yesterday and today. Had been considering trying to use both 5 gallon air tanks then decided that it would be overkill for this truck since it's mostly going to be used for airing up tires and spraying dust outta the cab. Using a Viar 88p compressor along with a switch that's rated to kick the compressor off at 115psi then back on when the pressure drops below 90psi. Running the wires through a auxiliary fuse block, provides a good base to add on other stuff as I get around to it.

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