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Loose dipstick tube? (SBC)

dyeager535

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I knew when I put the motor together that the tube was loose. It rotates freely, and I can just as easily remove it from the block.

I didn't think it would be an issue, but as evidenced by the sheen on the block and the drops of oil underneath, it appears to be "drafting" out while I'm cruising down the road.

Is there an "easy" fix to this? Add a slight flare with a flaring tool? I'm interested in getting it to fit like GM did originally, I'd prefer not to use epoxy or silicone, although I'm sure that they would work.
 
So you've run into them as well being loose like this?

I've never had to deal with it before, nor heard of it, so I assumed it was fairly uncommon.
 
This is VERY common. In fact, I can't remember a small block that I built that I did not need to put a new dipstick tube in.
Unfortunately, I can't really help, becuase I glue them all into place when I do them. Often, I need to use all methods of stupidity to flare it a little more when there is not enough to really hold it in there. So I would try that first. Just don't be afraid of epoxy or whatever. Even if it is nice and tight, it can still leak. I don't tolerate leaks, so I have to have it perfect.
 
Drivers side, yes.

Inner tube? Maybe I need to look at my parts manual. :(

You saying there should be a tube pressed in already, and the dipstick fits into that?
 
I had this happen on an 86 K-10 with a 4.3 V-6 I had when I was 18. I just took a block of wood, placed it on the dipstick bracket,(the piece that bolts to the manifold), and tapped it in nice and neat. Then I cleaned up the tube where the two pieces met, wrapped a piece of inner tube around the tube where it split and took some small hose clamps top and bottom and tightened them up.

It was a little redneck, but I was on the side of the road 20 miles north of Tonopah at 9am and it held until the day I sold it 2 years later.
 
Well it sounds like I'm missing a piece.

Are we all agreeing that there should be three "pieces" to the dipstick setup?

Dipstick, Dipstick tube, and "dipstick sleeve" that is pressed into the block?

This is the first/only Chev I ever rebuilt, and the engine core is not one I had been using prior to it being rebuilt, so if something was missing, I had no way of knowing.
 
On this 4.3 V-6 I had, there was a lower and upper half of the dipstick tube. The lower half was pressed into the pan on the passenger side and the upper half was pushed into the lower half and bolted to the exhaust manifold via a welded on bracket. There was an O-ring between the upper and lower halves IIRC, but it's been a long time.
 
I have never heard of a "Sleeve" that the tube slides into in the block.

When I built mine, and my friends motors. We both used aftermarket sticks. (Stupid Chrome ones)

And on both I had to grind the tube down to get it to slide into the block. I also applied RTV to it, and it had a tab to bolt to the side of the block.
 
This one goes straight into the block casting, but I know the style you are talking about.
 
The inner tube keeps the dipstick from hitting the crank. The dipstick tube does not press into it but it does stop against it as well as the swedge on the tube itself stopping at the block deck.

I just measured an inner tube and it is 6 3/4" long.
 
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I have used a punch to flare the open end (block end) of it a little, and then put a dab of RTV at the block.
 
i have used a center punch to dimple the block right around the hole that the dipstick tube goes into on the block whenever i had one that was too loose and rotated freely. just put some silicone on the tube insert it into the block and take a ball peen and center punch and put a few dimples in the block around the tube. should tighten it up.
 
i have used a center punch to dimple the block right around the hole that the dipstick tube goes into on the block whenever i had one that was too loose and rotated freely. just put some silicone on the tube insert it into the block and take a ball peen and center punch and put a few dimples in the block around the tube. should tighten it up.

I like it. That's what I would do.
 
If its a 80 or newer motor , just use the TBI style one where its bolted onto the number two cylinder exhaust manifold bolt .
 

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