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Lord help us, another rear disk brake conversion question

Desert Rat

Desert Rat

Fetch the comfy chair
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As if this subject hasn't been beaten to death, I have some more questions, even after searching. I've given up on swapping in a 700r4 and I am going to keep the TH350/NP205/GV overdrive combo that I have now. This prohibits the driveline e-brake that I had planned on. I have installed the AZ-Kickin rear brackets and installed the rotors. I also have AZ-Kickin's hose kit. Now I need e-brake calipers. AZ-Kickin's site says they sell them for $375 a pair, but they don't come with springs or levers. TSM sells them for $300 a pair (cheaper from TSM amazingly enough) and they appear to have the e-brake and levers included (e-mail into them to be sure). I saw a post where somebody got some from Car-Parts but I would rather have some refurbished or new ones. Comments on the best place to get calipers with levers and springs?

Second question. For those who have gone with the e-brake calipers, how did you set up the e-brake cables? I'm assuming that the length isn't going to match up perfectly. Did you cut them and fab up a metal plug to put into the lever? Does anybody make a custom line for them? Suggestions?
 
Why do you need the gear venders if you have the 700R4?

A 700R4 can make 5.13s feel like 3.55s. Absolutely no need for it IMO with the o/d trans.
 
I run a disk setup on my rear D60FF from Blackbird's Custom Trucks, Caddy e-brake calipers. I made my own bracket for the e-brake (vs. 1.0 out of angle steel, vs. 2.0 out of a chunk of a 10-bolt front brake rotor) and bolted it to the axle by using longer bolts for the caliper bracket. Those bolts run from the outside thru caliper bracket and axle mount, then a locknut, and then I bolted the e-brake bracket on the protruding ends of the bolts. Works fine for parking lots and the like, doesn't hold the truck by itself on steep inclines; I guess I could tighten the cable some more, leverage/travel from the e-brake pedal setup is the culprit. Looking from the axle side, my calipers are in the 9 o'clock position (i.e. behind the axle); the e-brake cable (stock, from my old 10-bolt) runs under the axle but is tucked in nicely in vs. 2.0 of the bracket. I can get you pics tomorrow or so if you're interested.
 
Our supplier of Caddy calipers resently raised the price considerably after they saw how many we were selling. It would be better to price them locally because there are still a few deals even without the springs and levers. We are finishing up (hopefully) the last revision of our e-brake kit and will ship it to HarryH3 (test truck) by the end of the week. The kit will consist of brackets, levers, springs, cross bolts and cables to the frame. No prices untill we prove the kit but it should be real soon.
 
Cool Bill, I'll be waiting for the final product /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I can take a pic now, or do you want me to wait until I get the new axles and drivelines in? Also, can't wait to see the offering from AZ-Kickin. I will probably have the calipers in hand by the time the kit comes out. But, I already have AZ-Kickin's brackets and hose kit. I'll just need the cable setup. I hope you will sell them separately.
 
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I'd like to see it. Thanks. Anybody else do anything similar?

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here you go:

ebrake.JPG
 
One of the write ups on the conversion mentioned swapping the calipers side to side so the e-brake would be on top and not hang down low. But, other comments have said it makes it impossible to bleed the lines thoroughly by putting the bleeder nipple on the down side. What was your thought process on this and how easy does yours bleed?
 
These calipers took me a very long time to bleed, with a lot of shaking and tapping with a wrench to dislodge air bubbles. If you swap them side to side, I wouldn't mount them to the bracket for the bleeding process - you'll never get all the air out, at least not when doing the bleeding manually. I don't have one of these power bleed thingies, so I wouldn't kow about that. I swapped the levers (as compared to when I got the calipers) so the cable hooks to the lever from the inside, and with my new bracket everything is tucked in quite nicely. In addition, I run 12.5" wide tires on an 8" rim with 4 1/4" backspacing, so the tire bulge sort of 'protects' the e-brake setup. Of course, the cable is still below the axle; I could probably come up with a zip-tie fix to the springs. I'm not too worried about it right now, don't plan on doing mud or brush stuff.

What worries me a bit more right now is that I managed to break off the bleeder screw on the right caliper while trying to bleed it again (truck's pulling a bit to the left, had some air in the right front and thought about doing the rear, too...) - the bugger broke flush with the caliper. I suppose it's a good thing that it is still tight and doesn't leak brake fluid. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
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I'm not too worried about it right now, don't plan on doing mud or brush stuff.


[/ QUOTE ]

That was my concern. I run through a lot of sage, some rock crawling, and little mud. I'd hate to rip one of the e-brake setups off. I'm kind of wondering why most kits have the bracket set up so the caliper is on the rear of the disk. Any special reason? It would seem that if you put the caliper towards the front, you could mount the bleeder up, and fabricate something that would keep the cable on top too.
 
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