Has anyone lost their rear driveline? I always had this terrible rumble when I let off the gas from the rear driveline and knew it was angle related. Monday I was coming down a slight grade and lost the whole thing, including the pinion nut, yoke etc. Not sure what failed first.
CK5
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Lost rear driveline
- Thread starter NV_K5
- Start date
I would bet money that the pinion nut was coming loose and the noise you were hearing was the pinion bearings and gears.
You'd be very lucky if those aren't destroyed.
You'd be very lucky if those aren't destroyed.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Yep drop the cover and poke around. Your U-joint should really be your weak link for vibration with regular driving.
Ok so I have a habit of waiting until I get seriously frustrated and then two more days before I post anything. Here's the scoop with pictures to be added tonight (forgot camera at home).
August 3rd I loose my driveline (and some other more serious problem arise after that not truck related Yeah I'm an idiot and need some lessons beat into me).
I take the 14 Bolt FF Pinion out and take it to my local driveline shop and run through the scenerio with Rudy. He tells me the pinion looks good and I explain the ring gears condition to him and settle on him rebuilding and setting the pre-load etc on the pinion - All is great. I also explain I want either a 1350 or 1410 yoke - either way I want U-Bolts not straps. No Problem. I pickup the pinion as promised on time but with a 1410 strap style yoke and oh by the way, no charge for setting up the pinion and I have no straps fro the yoke, you'll have to go to GM for those. Not real happy but trying to look at the bright side at least I have a 1410 yoke right?
I install the new pinion assy with new bearings including the pinion support bearing and check the backlash and pinion contact etc. All is well. Enter the search for the cold formed bearing retainers. Spicer doesn't make them for their own 1410 yokes. The next best thing is available from Great Lakes Off-road for $60-70.
SO on to the driveline, I get financially healed up from the pinion rebuild and decide to buy a HighAngle Driveline and since the old DL took part of the yoke on the T-Case I'd also buy his flange and get a CV/double cardon DL. Purchase is fine, Jess is easy going, all is well seven days and $587.00 later I get my new DL with flange .120 wall and a 1350 u-joint on the DL end. I call Jess and he says it must be my fault etc but he'll send me a new 1410 tailshaft and I can send him the 1350 back. OK.
By chance I search fleaBay and there is WFO concepts with a brand new U-Bolt Style 1350 yoke for my 14bolt. I call up Trevor who by now knows my name from the front end work I've done and parts purchased. He sells me his last one - shipped yesterday, arrived less than 20 hours later. I know WFO Concepts was a vendor on here, but seriously I can't tell you people how much Trevor has helped me over the last couple of years. BUY FROM HIM!
Also the angle of my rear end is not setup for double cardon driveline so I buy new spring perches from RoughStuff.
Ok so now I have a new set of $30 perches that I need to R&R (without torches). A $300 Pinion setup that I need to remove and re-install my new $80 yoke so I can remove my 1350 T-Case yoke and install my new $578 flange and drive line.
What's my point? If your driveline is noisy - find out why and FIX IT!
August 3rd I loose my driveline (and some other more serious problem arise after that not truck related Yeah I'm an idiot and need some lessons beat into me).
I take the 14 Bolt FF Pinion out and take it to my local driveline shop and run through the scenerio with Rudy. He tells me the pinion looks good and I explain the ring gears condition to him and settle on him rebuilding and setting the pre-load etc on the pinion - All is great. I also explain I want either a 1350 or 1410 yoke - either way I want U-Bolts not straps. No Problem. I pickup the pinion as promised on time but with a 1410 strap style yoke and oh by the way, no charge for setting up the pinion and I have no straps fro the yoke, you'll have to go to GM for those. Not real happy but trying to look at the bright side at least I have a 1410 yoke right?
I install the new pinion assy with new bearings including the pinion support bearing and check the backlash and pinion contact etc. All is well. Enter the search for the cold formed bearing retainers. Spicer doesn't make them for their own 1410 yokes. The next best thing is available from Great Lakes Off-road for $60-70.
SO on to the driveline, I get financially healed up from the pinion rebuild and decide to buy a HighAngle Driveline and since the old DL took part of the yoke on the T-Case I'd also buy his flange and get a CV/double cardon DL. Purchase is fine, Jess is easy going, all is well seven days and $587.00 later I get my new DL with flange .120 wall and a 1350 u-joint on the DL end. I call Jess and he says it must be my fault etc but he'll send me a new 1410 tailshaft and I can send him the 1350 back. OK.
By chance I search fleaBay and there is WFO concepts with a brand new U-Bolt Style 1350 yoke for my 14bolt. I call up Trevor who by now knows my name from the front end work I've done and parts purchased. He sells me his last one - shipped yesterday, arrived less than 20 hours later. I know WFO Concepts was a vendor on here, but seriously I can't tell you people how much Trevor has helped me over the last couple of years. BUY FROM HIM!
Also the angle of my rear end is not setup for double cardon driveline so I buy new spring perches from RoughStuff.
Ok so now I have a new set of $30 perches that I need to R&R (without torches). A $300 Pinion setup that I need to remove and re-install my new $80 yoke so I can remove my 1350 T-Case yoke and install my new $578 flange and drive line.
What's my point? If your driveline is noisy - find out why and FIX IT!
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K5dreamer
1/2 ton status
yup, happened to me, didnt take pics though. had a bad vibration on the way into work, then accelerating away from a stop light it was like someone hit the underside of my truck with a sledge hammer and it started nearly bouncing up and down driving down the road. pulled over, put it in 4x4, pulled out and the vibration wasnt nearly as bad but still there, didnt make it to work, pulled over and called a tow truck. Still had no idea what was wrong.
got to the dealership, drove the truck down off the wrecker, put it in park, got out and started to walk away and the truck started rolling down the hill. with a WHAM WHAM WHAM from underneith. jumped in, stomped on the brakes, set the parking brake and looked under. the driveshaft came loose from the rear of the TC, and became a rotating, flailing weapon of death. and with the truck sitting still it looked like a horney donkey. with the driveshaft hanging down like a........ well, you get the idea
mine apparently wasnt as bad as yours though, $500 later the truck was fine, with both rear driveshaft u-bolts replaced.
got to the dealership, drove the truck down off the wrecker, put it in park, got out and started to walk away and the truck started rolling down the hill. with a WHAM WHAM WHAM from underneith. jumped in, stomped on the brakes, set the parking brake and looked under. the driveshaft came loose from the rear of the TC, and became a rotating, flailing weapon of death. and with the truck sitting still it looked like a horney donkey. with the driveshaft hanging down like a........ well, you get the idea
mine apparently wasnt as bad as yours though, $500 later the truck was fine, with both rear driveshaft u-bolts replaced.
stupidgeek
Registered Member
it happened to me once while i was driving 35 mph. it was a ford though...
Photos - you know you cant read a post witout them...
Old yoke removed from transfer case -
Old yoke vs new flange -
and again -
1410 strap style yoke vs. 1350 U-Bolt Yoke BTW there is a reason the strap is hanging off, it doesn't fit the yoke.
Again -
New Driveline -
Flange installed -
Pinion Removed for re-installation of the yoke I really wanted w/U-Bolts.
Old yoke removed from transfer case -
Old yoke vs new flange -
and again -
1410 strap style yoke vs. 1350 U-Bolt Yoke BTW there is a reason the strap is hanging off, it doesn't fit the yoke.
Again -
New Driveline -
Flange installed -
Pinion Removed for re-installation of the yoke I really wanted w/U-Bolts.
Now the next problem, the 1 1/2" socket to remove the 1410 yoke doesn't fit inside the 1350 yoke. So a friend has my SK impact socket on the mill right now to remove 1/16 of an inch from the extrior of the socket. Hope it's still strong enough.
I've got the whole thing mocked up and ready for installation and permanent weld of the perches etc. but i have a question: In your opinion, how much compression of the slip assembly would be acceptable on a '72 K5 with 8 Inch Skyjacker suspension lift, Offroad design's shackle flip DIY4X Shackles and no blocks? How much compression does your's have?
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Almost ready for bouncing
Tuesday welded new spring perches and primed and painted. Installed and ready for testing. Rims are required because I cannot get her into garage with wheels and tires installed. Still need to bleed the brakes and attach vent to floor.
Driveline angle 19 degrees Axle 17 degrees at rest.
Next project is the gas tank - the diff hits at full flex.
Tuesday welded new spring perches and primed and painted. Installed and ready for testing. Rims are required because I cannot get her into garage with wheels and tires installed. Still need to bleed the brakes and attach vent to floor.
Driveline angle 19 degrees Axle 17 degrees at rest.
Next project is the gas tank - the diff hits at full flex.
