CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Low Idle and Searching/Bouncing Idle

clay1937

Registered Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Posts
40
Reaction score
0
Location
American Fork, UT
I have a full-size 1991 GMC Jimmy with a 5.7 litre (350 cid) V8, that has recently developed a low idle and searching / bouncing idle problem.

When the engine is cold and is started, it runs fine, with the cold idle around 1,100 RPM. As the engine warms up (I typically let the engine warm up to about 100 degrees before driving), the idle drops down to about 800 RPM.
While driving, as the engine continues to warm up to operating temperature, the idle continues to drop to where it finally reaches it’s normal running 650 RPM, as it has done for the last 14 years I’ve been driving the truck.

The problem that is now occurring starts when the engine finally reaches it’s operating temperature (i.e., around 180 degrees), which typically occurs 2-4 miles into driving, where the idle will drop too low, to around 500 to 550 RPM, and begin to "search" for the right idle, bouncing up 50-100 RPM, then down 50-100 RPM over and over, acting as if the engine is going to stall and die (it actually has died a few times when the weather was really hot).

Once the problem starts, it is only seen when slowing from about 30 MPH to a stop, and when sitting at a stop.

The idle searching up and down is most obvious when the transmission is in Park or Neutral with higher (i.e., 100 RPM) bounces (I usually put the transmission in Neutral at red lights). The idle searching up and down is less dramatic when the transmission is in gear, although the RPM is still too low (i.e., 500 - 550 RPM). Even when it’s not so dramatic, it causes the oil pressure to bounce up and down with the RPM adjustments...the oil pressure is REALLY erratic when the problem is more dramatic.

The problem goes away when pressing or holding the accelerator, which includes taking off from a stop, and just normal driving...it runs beautifully when pressing the gas...there don’t seem to be any ignition/timing problems at all.

Once the engine is at it's hottest, the idle searching also occurs during deceleration from about 30mph down to zero.

The carburetor has been cleaned many times, and the engine has had a Motorvac service.

So far I have already replaced the following parts with no improvement:

Tune-Up Parts (GM cap, GM rotor, AC Delco plugs, GM wires)
PCV Valve
ECM (computer chip)
Distributor Module
IAC and gasket (this is the only part that is no longer available from GM)
TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
EGR Valve and gasket
MAP Sensor
Knock Sensor
TBI Injectors

I recently read in a repair manual that if the temperature sensor is bad (not the temperature sender), that nothing in the injection system will work properly, so the next thing I'm going to try is replacing the Temperature Sensor, once it comes in (the 4x4 version of the GM part was only available on special order). I also have a GM O2 sensor to try after that.

I've had trouble finding the correct EGR solenoid, but have thought that may be a possibility too.

Other thoughts I've had include replacing the distributor, or even the thermostat (I'm running a 180 rather than the factory 190, but I've been running a 180 for the last 14 years I've owned the truck). I have even considered that replacing the A/C/Heater temperature controls might help, (although this was replaced about 5 years ago when it quit working).

There don't seem to be any vacuum leaks anywhere, and the intake manifold gasket was replaced about 5 years ago, and isn't leaking again yet.

Even though the truck has 209,000 miles on it, I can't imagine that there's a problem with the fuel pump (i.e., low pressure) which was replaced about 8-10 years ago with an OEM GM pump, coil, or timing chain (i.e., play in chain), because the truck runs perfectly until the engine is hot.

And since it’s a 1991 model year, there's no MAF sensor, Crank/Cam Position sensor, or even an air pump. It’s just TBI not SFI.

Someone made a posting of the exact same problem at http://www.automotiveforums.com/t183013.html but that was 4 years ago, and the solution was never posted. User GMMerlin posted a good article that will be helpful to me, but any other thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Clay
 
Have you replaced the throttle body base gasket? They go bad and leak that will cause a idle problems.
Check the EGR it may be stuck slightly open at idle.disconnect and plug the vac line that goes to it and see if the problem goes away. Many times when the EGR solenoid goes bad it leaks vaccum to the egr keeping it open slightly ay idle. EGR should be fully closed at idle.
 
I haven't tried replacing the base gasket, but have sprayed carb cleaner around the base gasket, and there doesn't seem to be a leak.

Also, the EGR is brand new. I've been trying to find the right EGR solenoid to replace it, but haven't had any luck.
 
i had this same problem but i just turned my base idle up a bit, if u find out what the problem is i am interested. judging by all the stuff u replaced u ever think that if might have been cheaper to take it to a shop and see what they have to say? also i dont think it is the fuel pump, mines brand new and it does this, but I would never rule out the fuel pump on most gm's replaced or not. also i replaced the base gasket on mine and took the egr off with no improvement
 
Yes, I thought it would be cheaper to have it looked at, but it's been in to the dealer for this problem at least 3 times that I can think of, and they can't seem to identify the problem. Replacing the fuel injectors, distributor module, and the ECM chip was all done by them on their recommendation. This is when I decided to start looking at fixing it myself; especially since the techs that have looked at it talk to me like "So the idle bounces up and down. What's the big deal?". Really irritates me.

I'm really beginning to believe it's the temperature sensor by the thermostat though. When the engine was hot, and the idle was bouncing, I shut the engine off, and pulled the electrical connector off of the temperature sensor, and boy is the engine hard to start (if it started at all). Plugging the connector back to the temperature sensor allowed the engine to fire up ok, then I pulled the connector off of the temperature sensor, and the idle went up and smoothed out. Plugging the connector back to the temperature sensor caused the idle to drop again, as well as the boucing idle. I repeated this a few times with the same results.

After doing this little "pull the plug test", I took the truck on a little road trip...about 150 miles round trip, and after about 10 miles of driving, the SES (Service Engine Soon) light came on for the first time. When I would shut the engine off, and start it again the SES light would be off (even if the engine was warm), but would come on again after about 10 miles of driving.

I still need to get the code(s) pulled to see what it says. I'm hoping that OBD I computers retain this info, so that it can be pulled.

My new temperature sensor should arrive in the mail from RockAuto.com in the next few days to try. I can't get one here locally, because the one at GM and at the aftermarket stores (i.e., AutoZone) has a different connector pin-out, where there is one post connector, and one sideways flat connector...mine has to post connectors, which is only available via special order. If it fixes the problem, I think I'll order a spare, just to have it. I've had the truck for 14 years, and will have it for at least another 14, but this part probably won't be available by then, unless I change the connector to the other connector type.

I'll keep you posted on what the code(s) in the computer tells me, as well as what replacing the temperature sensor does.

Lastly, in my search for an answer, it seems that the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor), on the back of the transmission could also be to blame. That might also explain why when I put the transmission into gear before the engine reaches full operating temperature, that it usually slams into gear really hard...whether it be revers or drive that I put the gear selector into.

Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it.

Clay
 
Slamming into gear shouldn't be affected by VSS. If it slams into gear, it's pretty likely engine speed is too high.

If you plan to keep the truck, one of the vehicle scanners (or winALDL and a cable if you have a laptop) would be a good investment. Temp sensor operation and idle speed are both no brainers with one, along with the multitude of other things they can do.
 
Ok!

I got the codes pulled, and here's what we got:

15 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor-- possible circuit low or open circuit
32 - Exhaust Gas recirculation (EGR) circuit fault
-or- Barometric Pressure Sensor circuit low--Feedback Carburetor system

I'm hoping that it's just the temperature sensor that's bad, and creating a situation the EGR circuit doesn't like (the EGR valve is brand new).

My new temperature sensor should be here any day now (I had to order it, since the pin-out on mine is different from the standard one), so when I replace it, I'll see if the problem goes away.

You're right, I should definitely get a scanner. I'll check out WinALDL too.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks!

Clay
 
Coolant temp sensor reading too cold would set it to "fast idle" which would certainly explain slamming into gear. That is of course, assuming the coolant sensor is at fault.

You did a good visual checking out all the wiring?
 
you do know that the only reason your truck would not start when u unplugged the coolant sensor is because when u do that it tells the computer its -40 so it floods it because the engine is so "cold" and when u plug it back in tells it the correct temp thats why it starts, also that would be your code as well. its actually a sign that the temp sensor is working, maybe not correctly though, but working none the less.
 
this probably doesnt apply but these trucks did have enough distributor problems that caused wierd stuff to happen. Also I have heard of the throttle body wearing out, but that usually causes more power issues than stumbling idle, but could also be considered a "vacuum leak"
 
Interesting. Sounds like the "fast idle" might be causing the slamming into gear. I'm sure hopeful the new temperature sensor fixes the problem.

I haven't inspected the wiring super closely, but it all seems to be in good order. Nothing melted or frayed, etc. I'll have to inspect a bit closer.

Thanks for the info.

Clay
 
I didn't know that having the temperature sensor unplugged makes the computer think it's -40. Good to know. The resulting flooding would certainly explain why it had a tough time starting and blew black smoke out of the tailpipe for a few seconds.

So this is a sign the temperature sensor is working. That's a little discouraging. I hope that as you said, that it's not working properly, and that the new one will fix the idle, and the transmission slamming into gear when moving from Park to Reverse or Drive.

I hope the sensor comes in today so I can try it.

If the problem continues, one of the things on my list to try is replacing the distributor, but I'm hesitant since the problem only occurs at idle. The truck runs beautifully otherwise. Smooth as glass all of the way up to 85 mph, which I did the other day just to see what it would do. This also makes me think the throttle body is ok, but who knows? If it comes down to it, I guess I'm willing to replace it.

Thanks!

Clay
 
Hence where a scanner comes in handy...you can check what your ECM is receiving for a temp signal against what your gauge is reading, if they don't match, one of the two has a problem...if the engine temp reading is anything other than ambient on a "cold" engine, there is a problem, and if it doesn't rise smoothly as the engine warms up, it IS the problem.

Doesn't hurt to bounce the two off of each other anyways, that way you know the factory gauge is reading correctly, or at least consistent in its readings. :)
 
Good point. I've been looking at the AutoXray, but will investigate WinALDL first.

I need to see if there is a good local class that teaches how to diagnose sensors like what you've described with the temperature sensor.

Thanks!

Clay
 
The service manuals sometimes throw in things like "X resistance at Y temperature should equal temperature Z" but that's not in all manuals. It's a rough way to test though, because temp sensors can "stick" at a certain point. May read right at a cold temperature, and at operating temp, but inbetween it stays at 100* and then jumps to 180* when the engine hits that point.

MAP is another one that the manuals sometimes include "X pressure=Y voltage" which you could compare actual engine vacuum to what the output signal from the MAP is.

The service manuals (suggest the complete set or you'll get frustrated) are a wealth of info on how things operate. Much more in-depth than most people expect.

Search my username as thread starter, and "troubleshooting" in the subject field, and you'll find links to various manual pages that include the page scans for some of the codes. Read a couple of those pages and you'll likely have a great understanding of how the major components related to that code operate, and how to diagnose them. Not to mention an idea of how in-depth the manuals actually are.
 
I'll also be watching closly,as my "new" 91 k5 is doing the same thing, drives great otherwise, just annoying
 
I'm having trouble getting the right temperature sensor. The 4wd version seems to be unavailable. It's starting to look like I may have to fork out $90 to the dealer for the other connector type so I can change over to the widely available version of the temperature sensor.

You may recall that mine has two "post" type connectors, and the standard one that is available has "post" type connector, and a flate "blade" style connector, instead of a second post.
 
FYI to this thread. Carb cleaner is not that great to find vacuum leaks. Starting fluid is excellent but it will also find a spark leak so be very careful.
 
Good to know. Thanks!

I just found out that the Standard Motor Products TX3 cooland temperature sensor has the correct pin connections. I'm going to try to get one today and try it tonight.
 
Well, sadly, replacing the coolant temperature sensor didn't help at all.

I think I'll try a different dealer. The closest one that it's been into 3 times sure wasn't able to discover the problem.

I guess the next most likely culprits are the O2 sensor and the EGR solenoid (EGR itself is new).

I'll keep posting as the saga continues.
 
Top Bottom