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Low Oil Pressure ?'s

Ok thanks for the input. I wanted to also add that their is, only when warmed up, and idling 550rpm, not a ticking sound but more like a deep clunk, idk im gonna guess with the bearing issue, but wouldnt it continue once i hit the gas??? It goes right away as soon as its revved up a bit.

Every old vehicle i have ever driven does the low at idle and goes up as you hit the gas, wouldnt it make sense for pressure to increase as rpms increase??? Im not saying that its not the case here because with that noise it most likely could be, but if the oil pressure is supposed to stay constant, your saying all these older motors are shot??? Idk if i can buy that. My van does the same thing and that thing runs amazing. No rough idle, doesnt burn a drop of oil, tons of power for a 350.

I guess ill just have to treat her nice till summer gets here and i can get old red out of the barn and start lookin into this thing more. 350/260 crate motors on summit for $1500. SHould be gettin tax money soon lol. I would love to drop a brand new engine in a truck. Never done it before.

If it dies it dies i guess and ill find a new motor. I would rebuild one if i had the time and some help from somebody who knows what their doing. If i hadnt been lookin for one of these for so long and finally found one that wasnt a rust bucket for a decent price i would just sell it now. But i like it and wanna see what i can do with it.:waytogo:

That my friend sounds like a thrust bearing issue. Thrust bearing bad will make noise at idle and go away as the rpm's go up. A bad thrust bearing will also drop oil pressure. With the engine off get yourself a pry bar and gently pry the harmonic balancer forward and backward to see how much movement you get (should be no more than .010", typically between .005"-.008").
 
That my friend sounds like a thrust bearing issue. Thrust bearing bad will make noise at idle and go away as the rpm's go up. A bad thrust bearing will also drop oil pressure. With the engine off get yourself a pry bar and gently pry the harmonic balancer forward and backward to see how much movement you get (should be no more than .010", typically between .005"-.008").

oh really, how hard a fix? And what will be the end result if it keeps doing it???
 
oh really, how hard a fix? And what will be the end result if it keeps doing it???

The fix is to pull the engine, tear it completely apart, have the crank welded and remachined, wash all internal pieces, then reassemble the engine with all new bearings and whatever other items you wish.

IF it's a thrust issue and you let it continue it will eventually lock up the engine and possibly even destroy the transmission pump because the crankshaft is moving forward and if it moves far enough will disengage the convertor from the trans pump and strip the gear or break the hub of the convertor.
 
The fix is to pull the engine, tear it completely apart, have the crank welded and remachined, wash all internal pieces, then reassemble the engine with all new bearings and whatever other items you wish.

IF it's a thrust issue and you let it continue it will eventually lock up the engine and possibly even destroy the transmission pump because the crankshaft is moving forward and if it moves far enough will disengage the convertor from the trans pump and strip the gear or break the hub of the convertor.

Well then.... lol, great..... the other thing sounded better

You think that would be the case even if the oil pressure is fine when i start it and it doesnt do it cold idling?? Just after it warms up.
 
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Well with shipping a 350 4 bolt main, 195hp base, says up to 260 depending on intake setup prices out at $1,671 with shipping. I guess that will have to be my backup. Cuz if that 305 comes out of that truck, im not putting it back in, unless you guys think it would be cheaper and worth the time to rebuild it good. Idk that price for a drop in motor, (i have the carb, intake, exhaust manifolds, an extra water pump in the back of my truck brand new, and all the other things needed to put on the crate motor). So idk i guess ill have that as a back up, i can get a ride for a while and if i needed to i could get somebody to pull my van out of the snow drift behind the barn lol so i would have a vehicle.

Im gonna hope its not that though and change oils and i got a gauge, i just have no idea where im supposed to run the little plastic line to......
 
Lol sorry about the post horing lol, but i just went out with a pry bar, put it between the harmonic balancer and that front crossmember, the crossmember flexed but the balancer didnt seem to pull out at all (maybe a little but not like 4x4 high was explaining...) But i could feel it when it moved but it was just the slightest amound, maybe a few thousandths. I lined it up with a spot on the water pump then pryed and couldnt even tell the difference. Your saying if its bad it should def be moving though right?? I think thats what you meant to check. But ok so pheww hopefully that isnt it... You guys are making me paranoid lol
 
Lol sorry about the post horing lol, but i just went out with a pry bar, put it between the harmonic balancer and that front crossmember, the crossmember flexed but the balancer didnt seem to pull out at all (maybe a little but not like 4x4 high was explaining...) But i could feel it when it moved but it was just the slightest amound, maybe a few thousandths. I lined it up with a spot on the water pump then pryed and couldnt even tell the difference. Your saying if its bad it should def be moving though right?? I think thats what you meant to check. But ok so pheww hopefully that isnt it... You guys are making me paranoid lol
at least that part is tight.it doesnt tell how the rest of the engine is though.running that thin oil has to do with your problem.its thin at startup and even thinner when it warms up.at least go 10w30 and see how it runs.10w 40 in will help more id say if the engine is gettin a lil loose.305s are usually pretty tight from the factory.with the short stroke and small bore they take a lot to blow.i had one with 3 burnt valves when i finally pulled it and it still would run and idle pretty good somehow.lol.just would smoke when i gave it gas.
 
at least that part is tight.it doesnt tell how the rest of the engine is though.running that thin oil has to do with your problem.its thin at startup and even thinner when it warms up.at least go 10w30 and see how it runs.10w 40 in will help more id say if the engine is gettin a lil loose.305s are usually pretty tight from the factory.with the short stroke and small bore they take a lot to blow.i had one with 3 burnt valves when i finally pulled it and it still would run and idle pretty good somehow.lol.just would smoke when i gave it gas.

yah ill just have to change the oil this weekend. What you guys think of Rotella 15w40 synthetic?? Thats what i ran in my 2001 silverado and it never burned any oil with 170 thousand on it and my grandpa ran 10w40 or 15w40 conventional Rotella in it since he got it. He got it dirt cheap through the crane company he worked for.
 
Any oil suggestions??? Its finally about freezing here for the first time in months so im not afraid of runnin thicker oil.
 
Alot of people like and sware by the regular Rotella 15w40 you get at Walmart. I just got a 5 gallon jug and plan to try it out soon. Its also cheap.
 
Alot of people like and sware by the regular Rotella 15w40 you get at Walmart. I just got a 5 gallon jug and plan to try it out soon. Its also cheap.

Yah i ran that in my 01 silverado. My grandpa sold it to me and he worked at a crane company and they used the rotella 15w40 in the cranes so he got it dirt cheap. Had 170000 when i sold it and engine ran great, didnt leak or burn a drop really. I switched to the synthetic rotella just for the heck of it, i didnt really feel a change, just thought i would try it. But maybe ill try the regular first so i dont waste a bunch of money on synthetic if it doesnt fix the low pressure.
 
Oh and while im asking lol. I know this will prolly start an argument but what are the best filters for the price? I normally go with the fram tough gaurd because the orange frams dont have the anti drain back valve, and that grip is so nice, dont even need a tool to take it off most of the time.
 
Frams are the debil... worst filter ya can buy.. get a Wix or Napa Gold.. same filter...
 
Well guys i changed the oil, put rotella 15w40 in and a bottle of lucas. Driving oil pressure increased, but after i drove it and let it idle went back down and still makin that clunk noice, dangit. I guess ill try an oil pump first but if that doesnt solve it, the engines just gotta last another 2 or 3 months till winters over so i can get the van out. Then i think ill pull the engine and rebuild it. I want to spend the least amount of money possible, i found a rebuild kit with seals and piston heads for $180. I want to make it bone stock though as far as cam, what is the numbers for a stock cam?? unless a bigger one will not hurt gas mileage?? I want to rebuild it and be able to get the best mileage possible. And im sure a rebuild will give me alot more power anyways than what i have now. The only upgrade i wanna do is the gear drive timing thing. I love that whining sound and they are only like $85, so ill put one of them in, unless its a bad idea.
 
I put a mobil 1 2x capacity in. Idk if thats good, but must be better than fram apparantly lol
 
Hey guys i was wondering if a bad intake gasket could lead to low oil pressure???
 
Hey guys i was wondering if a bad intake gasket could lead to low oil pressure???
Sure if it sucked in a lot of sand and scarred up the bearings.
Or let all the oil leak out.
But unfortunately I don't think there is any other way. I may be wrong though. If so, someone will correct me soon.
 
Just wondering lol. I know it has a slight leak, theirs a little bit of oil sitting on the intake, but not a bunch, i just thought i would ask.
 
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