CK5
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LS oil pick-up tube

Does your filter have the drainback valve in it, that little rubber diaphram?

I hope you find it.

To be honest, I would probably do the same thinking until I had time to take it apart, didn't mean to come off the wrong way there. Written sentences aren't the same as in person if you know what I mean.
 
Does your filter have the drainback valve in it, that little rubber diaphram?

I hope you find it.

To be honest, I would probably do the same thinking until I had time to take it apart, didn't mean to come off the wrong way there. Written sentences aren't the same as in person if you know what I mean.
Nothing but good intentions is what I got from you, thank you! I agree that writing can make intentions difficult, but we all good!
I am glad to see that you understand what my peanut is doing. Awesome!

It currently has a small Delco filter on it that I was going to change at 500 miles just for CYA. Didn't make it that far yet.

I hope to get on this the weekend of the 7th, but I could be mistaken. I will post up whatever I find, whenever I get to it...
:confused:
 
Well we found the problem today. Some goober, (me) obviously put the wrong O ring on the factory puck- up tube. It came out too easily, and this led me to think about when I installed it, I wondered but thought that I had gotten the proper one.

I bought a new Melling pick-up tube, which came with the O ring on already. That did the trick.

We also looked at the cam bearings as best as we could from the bottom, and all seems good as far as none have walked. Thanks for posting your pictures @shady

All back together and pressure is good, considering I don't know if this gauge and sender are reading properly, but it's higher than it was and now responds nicely to RPM.

Thank you all for your input and help.

:waytogo:
 
Does this have that stupid afm stuff on it? I've currently got a 2008 6.2L in my wife's Denali with 227k that has a bad tick/knock after driving it long distance like an hour to 2 hrs. There's mixed stuff online on whether mine has afm or not or if it's there but not programmed to be active. Yesterday it shut down after a long drive and coming to a stop sign. Finally got it restarted and drive another 30 min home. It was doing the knock intermittently on the highway. Kicker is I've been driving it for months with a failed oil pressure sensor so I don't know if I'm losing pressure or not. Lol. Need to fix that first I guess. My buddy has a 6.0L that was losing pressure hot going down the road and it would come back up at idle. His was the pickup tube o-ring.
 
Does this have that stupid afm stuff on it? I've currently got a 2008 6.2L in my wife's Denali with 227k that has a bad tick/knock after driving it long distance like an hour to 2 hrs. There's mixed stuff online on whether mine has afm or not or if it's there but not programmed to be active. Yesterday it shut down after a long drive and coming to a stop sign. Finally got it restarted and drive another 30 min home. It was doing the knock intermittently on the highway. Kicker is I've been driving it for months with a failed oil pressure sensor so I don't know if I'm losing pressure or not. Lol. Need to fix that first I guess. My buddy has a 6.0L that was losing pressure hot going down the road and it would come back up at idle. His was the pickup tube o-ring.
Mine doesn't have AFM.
I have heard from a friend that he has helped out several engines that had ticking and such by using BG EPR to flush out contaminates. He has had to double flush a couple, but has helped engines with and without AFM. Deleting the AFM is the best option to me if you HAVE to go in to replace lifters, but it isn't cheap. Try the EPR first, even if it costs some in oil.
 
I'll see if I can find some. I did a quick flush with a little atf and an oil change a while back before we had a long trip to go on and it had no issues.
 
And I may as well tell about the amount of crap in the bottom of the pan after only 330 miles. This engine was fairly clean in my opinion, especially after seeing ones from the seventies with carburetors and Pennzoil. Well I had the pan spotless when I did the initial and there was a layer of softened carbon particals and such in the bottom of the pan and the oil had gotten fairly dark already. We had put Schaeffer's into it right after buying the Escalade, however it only got about a thousand miles on it before we pulled it out. I could see clean spots on the bottom of pistons Saturday, and the junk in the pan would smear into a soft paste when I touched it. It looked like small particals but they weren't hard at all.
So I will probably change the oil sooner than normal after seeing that.
 
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