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LS Swap Parts Checklist for 91' K5

Coontail

Coontail

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So I plan on taking the cummins out of my k5 and putting an LQ4 and 4L80e and I just need some help identifying most of the big stuff I'll need. I bought the blazer in the beginning phases of the cummins swap

I am greenhorn to all of this so there may be some stupid questions

What I've got on the list:
  • Dirty Dingo LS R4 A/C Bracket Assembly $250

  • Gauges from Dakota Digital VHX $750

  • Dirty Dingo Chevrolet GMC Truck Blazer Suburban 73-87 4WD LS Engine Mounts $105

  • Schoenfield 1302ls Headers?

  • 97’ C3500 Fuel Pump Assembly or In-Tank Pump from 91’ Camaro with the 5.7

The PO had already cut out the original cross member hence the ORD Crossmember on the list. The $325 version comes with motor mounts but I don't know if I could bolt the LS right to those mounts or if i have to get dirty dingo swap mounts.

I have read that the 91' K5's fuel pump is sufficient for an LS swap but I have also read that you need to use either of the pumps listed. Clarification with that would be heavily appreciated.

I think that's all the questions i have, thanks!
 
To bolt the ord mounts to the ls you need adapters. You can Buy the ones from ORD they are made by advanced adapters and will keep the engine in the OEM location. ORD motor mounts are the standard 3 bolt style and the ls has a 4 bolt style. Or buy the adapters directly from AA

I'm running hooker block hugger headers, they fit great but are a bit close to the starter wires. I has to bend one wire harness tab. I also have a walbro 255 pump in mine. Works great and fits in the OEM sending unit, comes with all the bits to fit oem wires and what not. I have part numbers and pictures in my build thread
 
TreeFarm said:
To bolt the ord mounts to the ls you need adapters. You can Buy the ones from ORD they are made by advanced adapters and will keep the engine in the OEM location. ORD motor mounts are the standard 3 bolt style and the ls has a 4 bolt style. Or buy the adapters directly from AA

I'm running hooker block hugger headers, they fit great but are a bit close to the starter wires. I has to bend one wire harness tab. I also have a walbro 255 pump in mine. Works great and fits in the OEM sending unit, comes with all the bits to fit oem wires and what not. I have part numbers and pictures in my build thread
Click to expand...


Sweet I'll definitely give your thread a look. Thanks for the feedback!
 
The gauges aren’t a necessity but if you got room in your budget, go for it.

The headers fit nicely. A definite must

What are your plans for a harness and ECM?
 
chris85 said:
The gauges aren’t a necessity but if you got room in your budget, go for it.

The headers fit nicely. A definite must

What are your plans for a harness and ECM?
Click to expand...

The hookers fit nicely?

I think the Dakota digitals are a necessity ;)

The harness will be a standalone harness and the ECM I'll have tuned. The ECM also has to be flashed to get by a security lockup I believe, I gotta look into it again cause I forgot LOL
 
Coontail said:
The hookers fit nicely?

I think the Dakota digitals are a necessity ;)

The harness will be a standalone harness and the ECM I'll have tuned. The ECM also has to be flashed to get by a security lockup I believe, I gotta look into it again cause I forgot LOL
Click to expand...

The Shoenfeld fit nicely.

Agreed on the Dakota digital. I plan to use them as well, but if the swap is needing to be done on the cheap this is where I would have to sacrifice.

Correct on the harness, but do you already have the stock one? Need to buy an aftermarket harness? I’m finding current performance and warr performance to be good sources for any harness adapters and fuse blocks you may need.
 
Coontail said:
The hookers fit nicely?

I think the Dakota digitals are a necessity ;)

The harness will be a standalone harness and the ECM I'll have tuned. The ECM also has to be flashed to get by a security lockup I believe, I gotta look into it again cause I forgot LOL
Click to expand...


Hookers fit awesome. Like I said the passenger one is close to the starter wires bit I was able to kick out the collector and get plenty of room.

Dakota digital dash is awesome. So many features i didn't even know about. My only regret was buying the silver one and not the square body syndicate special edition.
 
TreeFarm said:
Hookers fit awesome. Like I said the passenger one is close to the starter wires bit I was able to kick out the collector and get plenty of room.

Dakota digital dash is awesome. So many features i didn't even know about. My only regret was buying the silver one and not the square body syndicate special edition.
Click to expand...

My only problem with the hookers is that they aren't long tubes. Long tube headers look (and sound) soooo nice. Though whatever's more affordable and will work better I'm gonna go with

I didn't know they had a special edition! I was looking at the black face gauges
 
chris85 said:
The Shoenfeld fit nicely.

Agreed on the Dakota digital. I plan to use them as well, but if the swap is needing to be done on the cheap this is where I would have to sacrifice.

Correct on the harness, but do you already have the stock one? Need to buy an aftermarket harness? I’m finding current performance and warr performance to be good sources for any harness adapters and fuse blocks you may need.
Click to expand...

Well, I don't have the ls yet LOL... I have to sell the Cummins that's in it then I'll go shopping. If it comes with a complete harness I'll use that but if not I'll get an aftermarket harness
 
Coontail said:
Well, I don't have the ls yet LOL... I have to sell the Cummins that's in it then I'll go shopping. If it comes with a complete harness I'll use that but if not I'll get an aftermarket harness
Click to expand...

Remember with the 4l80e you have to do some modification/fabrication to the transmission crossmember.

Why are you ditching Cummins in the first place?
 
chris85 said:
Remember with the 4l80e you have to do some modification/fabrication to the transmission crossmember.

Why are you ditching Cummins in the first place?
Click to expand...

I'll be able to get some help with fabrication on the transmission cross member. Thanks for the info!

As far as the Cummins, I could sell it with the 47rh, turbo, P-Pump, Intercooler... For around $2500 where I am. Just doing that I think I could almost do an entire LS swap. The Cummins also requires the frame being boxed which is another expense and a lot more time welding. I also grew out of the "diesel phase" lol and would much rather stick with a gas.
 
A stock TBI pump will not supply enough pressure for the LS engine. A delco EP381 can swap in place of the stock tbi pump on the tbi sending unit and supply the pressure needed for the injectors.

I used the dirty dingo slider mounts in my swap and it allowed the engine to sit in the stock location so the drivetrain didn't move.
 
ZooMad75 said:
A stock TBI pump will not supply enough pressure for the LS engine. A delco EP381 can swap in place of the stock tbi pump on the tbi sending unit and supply the pressure needed for the injectors.

I used the dirty dingo slider mounts in my swap and it allowed the engine to sit in the stock location so the drivetrain didn't move.
Click to expand...

Ah yes I did read about that pump I forgot to write that down. That sounds like the best option so far

So stupid question 1. I would be getting the ORD crossmember and would I be bolting the dingo mounts directly in place of the engine mounts or would the dingo's bolt to ORD engine mounts. I can't seem to wrap my head around that
 
Coontail said:
Ah yes I did read about that pump I forgot to write that down. That sounds like the best option so far

So stupid question 1. I would be getting the ORD crossmember and would I be bolting the dingo mounts directly in place of the engine mounts or would the dingo's bolt to ORD engine mounts. I can't seem to wrap my head around that
Click to expand...

I don't have the ORD cross member, but if you use the dingo sliders, that will put the actual mount back in the stock SBC location to match up with the stock SBC/BBC location on the ORD cross member.
 
Want the most bang for your buck then send the computer and harness off to team208motorsports for rework and tune.

I went with cable shifters for tranny and tcase to avoid the linkage headache.
 
Magikal said:
Want the most bang for your buck then send the computer and harness off to team208motorsports for rework and tune.

I went with cable shifters for tranny and tcase to avoid the linkage headache.
Click to expand...

Didn't even think about the shift linkages, Shiftworks seems to have a few resolutions for that

I've heard Painless Performance is pretty decent as well
 
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