LSD identification and rebuild parts research

[rpcraft]

I picked up a rear axle recently. It's a 10 bolt and seems like it was a decent deal overall considering I paid 300 bucks and it came with 4.10's and a Spring pack type LSD (also had a matching front geared front axle). It's got a little surface rust from sitting in frozen weather with some water in the pumpkin so I am going to probably take the carrier out and hit the edges with some scotch bright and just do some general cleanup and bearing inspection.

I am wondering if anyone can help me determine a brand, or tell me where I can look. Others have mentioned it's probably a GM Eaton or Auburn type but I am trying to get more specific data from someone who may have a discerning eye and can educate me better on what to look for. Does it matter beyond that or are they all the same? I know it has yellow springs in it which I believe ore 200 pound springs and I will probably convert it to the 400 lb springs to start with while in there but I am just looking for the best advice on what clutch packs to buy and what gear diff additive I'll be looking to put in when I go to refill it?

I have created a shared folder on my google photos with pictures of the LSD carrier that can be enlarged but also posting them here. The carrier is still in the pumpkin because I have the truck on the wheels at the moment but maybe someone can take the time to look and provide me some advice or feedback.
Thanks

Rear LSD IDentify

8 new items added to shared album

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[rpcraft]

I tried to photo all the identifying marks I could see still in the carrier and take the best photos I could but you know how tight space is in there.

 

[Wes Harden]

Possibly an Eaton

 

[Wes Harden]

What are the markings on the ring gear. The side bearing cap markings have no connection with the carrier.
The 10 does have 27 and 30 spline axles they use different bearings.

 

[rpcraft]

These are 27 spline axles. The markings on the ring gear are 4.10 but would that have anything to do with the carrier brand? I am pretty sure it is an Eaton unit but just wanting to get some validating opinions. I trust a lot more of the gear and axle gurus here because of the broader base of the clientellem lol.

 

[Wes Harden]

Yeah true but they look thick, possibly aftermarket. If so then the carrier will be for higher gear split 2.56 # lower. Or 2.76 and # higher. Also I was off is 28 spline not 27.

 

[Blue85]

You paid money for a rusty rear 10-bolt? I would take everything apart, (keeping all the shims in order), wire wheel all the rust off everything and be sure there isn't more pitting and damage. Check out all the bearings and races, too. Slight amounts of surface irregularity are OK unless it's right in the contact pattern. For sure you don't want any rusty flakes able to come off and destroy everything.

If the gearset and LSD aren't useable then you really don't have anything. Why not go with 14B S/F if you're changing axles? 4.10 was common in them and they can be found/converted to 6-lug.

Already have 4.10 in the front?

 

[rpcraft]

I wanted a 4.10's and the front axle was a selling point and the seller had this set. I am also doing a LS swap, lift, and going with 33 inch tires. This axle pair came up for sale and when I went to look he also had another 10 bolt front and rear with 3.08's and a rear 14 bolt with 4.10's that has seen a bunch of miles with too little oil so I did a little bundling and got them all for 800 bucks all in. I got sidetracked and bedazzled by the 14 bolt (because it has a posi and disc brake setup) and failed to look more closely at this rear 10 bolt with the 4.10's and missed the rust. Whoopsie! So we're at this point in the story. My error but oh well. But other than bearings, possible ring and pinion it's still a good LSD and I already had a 10 bolt NIB rear disc setup (yes 6 lug rotors, ebrake and all). so I am more motivated to keep the 10 bolt for the time being. If I have to spend money on it to make it serviceable I am ok with that

If the gearing is not too tall on the 4.10 set I'll be happy with whatever work I have to put into this rear LSD setup. AS far as the 14 bolt goes, it needs rebuilt, period. Even the gears because of the lack of oil. And as you probably know it;s some work and reconfiguring the bracketry to get the 14 bolt mounted under a K5 and I just don't have the bandwith to get to that right away so the 10 bolt is the easier problem to fix at this juncture.

Probably a weird answer and may seem like a lot of money and going the wrong way but considering I got all the axles for 800 bucks maybe not so bad. I have plenty of spare axle shafts, stubs, front hubs, and front end parts to survive some wear and tear so if the 10 bolts break I'm not hosed. I am planning on doing mostly overlanding, camping, and light offroading at most, when not driving daily stuff, but if I get to beating on things to hard or do not like the 4.10's I will probably move the 14 bolt up up the priority list.

 

[Blue85]

A 3/4-ton 14B (FF/10.5") is a bolt-in. The 1-ton version needs mounts moved. Otherwise the same axle. 9.5" 14bolts in 8-lug from the square bodies is a bolt-in. The GMT400 ones come in 6-lug and 8-lug and need the mounts moved. You can mix and match parts to make a bolt-in. Use the search.

 

[rpcraft]

Not trying to be rude and thanks for the axle advice but right now I am just laser focused on the LSD advice I was asking about originally. All the legendary and mythical swap axles that bolt right in with no modifications are few and far between lately and honestly, no longer worth my time to invest searching given the course of activities I will be doing with this rig. Additionally, I am tired of hunting down stuff, taking precious time of which I have little due to my work travel schedule, and then finding out the seller didn't know jack shit about what they are selling (or more probably just lying about it) and therefore wasting time I could have just spent rebuilding an axle I already had.

If I wanted ultimate beef I would go with a Dana 60 bare shell up front and cherry pick the rest of the parts. Likewise in the rear with a Dana 70. I could build it all in my shop when the time is right, and I may even, but until then I'll be rocking the 10 bolts. I'm doing camping and towing jet ski and dirt bike runs to some remote areas and lake side. Occasionally the roads turn into mudholes or other light offroad obstacles. I just want the right gear for towing and a LSD so when necessary I know both back wheels are digging in. I'm not going to do the Rubicon or King of the hammers and such.

If I blow this stuff up I will be more than happy to post about it and you can point at me and laugh. I'm cool like that ;o).