I figured as much, sounds like a good plan
CK5
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I figured as much, sounds like a good plan
Been glued to this site for a few days now reading through some awesome builds like this one and the one kay86k5 has posted. Glad to see you are working on the k5 again. I have also watched that 1 ton swap video countless times. Good luck with the build.
I don't see it being ready to wheel this fall, but you never know. Sometimes these projects get to rolling and you get stuff done very quickly. I'd be interested in tagging along anyways, keep me posted on your plans!
Today I ordered the steering box weld in beef up kit. Also ordered a couple DOM/poly bushing builder kits from DIY4X so I can fab up some motor mounts for the L83. Took some rough measurements of the stock motor pads and cross member, and also of the L83. Started drawing up a custom assembly that will be a new cross member and motor mount all in one. Once I hang the motor over the chassis, I'll take more exact measurements and get this thing burned out and welded in. May change up the design, who knows... Can't have too many "race windows" AMIRITE!?
That will be sweet. Keep the part above the frame low as possible. The exhaust is not to far away.
Made up the motor side of the motor mounts today. 3/16" plate, cut it all out of scrap. The bushings and DOM are from DIY4X. My friend that lets me use his shop (and his tools 
) also has a powder booth. Since these are small, and it's just better than paint, I'm going to get him to run these next time they do black.
I know its small and relatively simple, but dang it feels good to get something done on this project. It's been a while.
) also has a powder booth. Since these are small, and it's just better than paint, I'm going to get him to run these next time they do black.I know its small and relatively simple, but dang it feels good to get something done on this project. It's been a while.
Get that thing ready for a November ride!
Revised design. Basically, going to make 2 of these to sandwich the motor mounts. They will weld inside the frame channel. I’ll box in between, should be plenty strong. Just enough clearance all the way around.
Looks close the the diff... I have no idea how much up travel there will be with the 52s, but I don’t think it’ll be in the way. Bumps will be added later anyway, so it can be addressed if need be.
Welds aren’t real pretty, I’ll probably put this on on the back side, do a better job on the front side.
Looks close the the diff... I have no idea how much up travel there will be with the 52s, but I don’t think it’ll be in the way. Bumps will be added later anyway, so it can be addressed if need be.
Welds aren’t real pretty, I’ll probably put this on on the back side, do a better job on the front side.
If you wanted to run high steer it would probably be a clearance issue with the ram and tie rod.
Looks like it hangs down about the same as the stock engine cross member. I like the design, should work well.
Cut, boxed, and welded up. Got it burned onto the frame also, just didn’t take any pics. It was dark and I need to video dropping the motor in.
If it were in the stock location, you would be right. The stock engine crossmember has some weird bends that push it further toward the front of the motor. This one is probably 6-8” further rearward than the stock piece.
@Kay86K5 this one does hang down a bit lower. The stock member kinda runs around the front of the oil pan and tucks up just under the crank pulley. This one goes straight under the pan. It will cause a little less clearance relative to the differential, but I’ll limit travel with bumps (if it even needs limiting).
Now, on to the transmission. Still looking for a np241 passenger drop. If anybody has a bead on one, holla atcha boy!
If it were in the stock location, you would be right. The stock engine crossmember has some weird bends that push it further toward the front of the motor. This one is probably 6-8” further rearward than the stock piece.
@Kay86K5 this one does hang down a bit lower. The stock member kinda runs around the front of the oil pan and tucks up just under the crank pulley. This one goes straight under the pan. It will cause a little less clearance relative to the differential, but I’ll limit travel with bumps (if it even needs limiting).
Now, on to the transmission. Still looking for a np241 passenger drop. If anybody has a bead on one, holla atcha boy!
Looks bitchin
Nice. Subscribed 
I think the engine mount I made has the drive train sitting a little more level than stock. Hard to tell exactly without the body on. I’m doing a 1” puck with the new body bushings, so I think I’ll be ok. Just gonna hold off on a trans/t-case crossmember for now. Wanna make sure the body clears everything.
Wheeled the frame and put a coat of paint on it. Amazing how quickly and easily you can make something crusty look like a dime! Left a little bit on the front left, gotta weld in the steering box plates.
Wheeled the frame and put a coat of paint on it. Amazing how quickly and easily you can make something crusty look like a dime! Left a little bit on the front left, gotta weld in the steering box plates.
Since your crossmember situation changed not sure this is even possible, but are you gonna do the bolt on brace too or just weld on? Also, if you’re going to hydro assist it won’t even matter since that makes the best difference.
Just the weld in kit. You’re right, though, with hydro assist, the weld in brace isn’t really needed at all. My frame was already stressed in that area, so this just fixes and stiffens all that up. Cheap insurance I guess.
