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Lug stud

Durdyk5

Durdyk5

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Had 5 lug studs break off the other day. Just got everything back together last night. I was looking for some longer studs to replace the normal length. This on the front end. Anybody replaced their studs for longer studs? Any recommendations?
 
5 / 6 / 8 lug front axle ?

2wd or 4wd ?

what did you torque them to before they popped ?

are you getting a min of 5-6 full turns of the lug nut on the stud before it hits the tapper of the lug hole on the rim ?
 
If all broke on same wheel, check that wheel, it maybe bent around center circle
 
Its 4wd 6 lug. I didn't torque them. The place I bought the rims and tires from put them on. Not a big fan of the the lug nut in general that is being used. it has about a half of thread left on them. I am use to having some thread showing on the stud after tighten the lug nuts. The lug nuts I am assuming is what fuel sent to use with the wheel.
 
The thing that I can't figure out is that it was a clean break on all 5. I don't remember hitting any bad spot in the road, not sure if I hit something just right in order for them to break
 
stock 6 lug with 7/16" stud size MAX at 100ft lb or they can pop like this bad .

and as i said i was always told 5-6 full turns on lugs is the bare min for safe install . race rules tho are different .
 
The diameter of the fastener is what determines the minimum thread engagement needed. 7/16" stud needs 7/16" of thread engagement. Maybe a bit deeper for the tapered nature of the end of the stud? FWIW I run 1/2" studs up front with open lug nuts, and it definitely does look weird seeing a fair number of threads exposed on the nut. I measured before taking the plunge, they meet the above spec, and have never loosened on me. Probably 5+ years. One persons experience does not equate to proof, just anecdotal evidence that the formula is correct.

Are those things really 100ft-lbs? 70ft-lbs is the max for a grade 8 7/16" fastener from what I see, dry.

Probably a few options for cause of failure, but I'm SURE the shop wouldn't have used an impact gun to install them.
 
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what type of wheel are we talking here?

Steel? aluminum?

Some aluminum wheels are weird from the get-go....when it comes to lugs..
 
as many years as i did custom wheel and tire packages the wheel company 98% of the time di NOT supply the lug nuts . shops or retail / wholesale sellers would add them in the deal .
 
it was the same with these. The shop had to get some different ones fuel didn't send any
 
sounds like they screwed it up and maybe didnt check stud length to rim thickness from the start . seen this a lot over the years counters guys just order and tell shop tech just install it .
 
plus, aluminum wheels may take a while to take a "set"....may take several re-torques and heat cycles before the lugs will hold torque.

The lugs must be the proper style to match the stud length and lug holes in the wheels.

Another thing to look for is the centering hole in the wheel must be larger or proper dimensions to fit the hub...if the wheel is held away from the hub by the centering hole, it will certainly fail..
 
These were suggested to me by someone on CK5 last year seem to work well.
Gorilla Automotive 68177LB E- T/Ultra Long Lug Nuts (7/16" Thread Size)
I used these on my aluminum rims to get a bit extra reach and better centering on rims
 
When I had New rims installed the guys at 4WP wholesale in Hawthorne CA actually did use a torque wrench His suggestion was 70-80lbs But as dyeager535 pointed out 70ft-lbs is the max for a grade 8 7/16.
I was happily surprised to see them use a torque wrench, that was the first time a shop near me has used one while I watched?
 
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