Time to change thread name to last minute Blazer Bash prep
CK5
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M1008 Cucv Ls Swap Cadolet Build, long range Blazer Bash Project
- Thread starter Cucv_M1008
- Start date
Converting my M1008 from 6.2 Diesel to LQ9 power
Lol its down to the wire. Few more things to do on Friday and Sat and Sunday morning.
Finished up t case shifter and I have 4wd. Put front drive shaft back in and t case skid plate. Next is mount spare tire plate, oil change, gauges and nut and bolt check and t case low switch for the pcm.
Got the spare tire mounted. Next I'm working on packing then then back to in cab stuff.
T case low switch installed.
Well it made it to Blazer Bash, zero issues besides the alternator dieing when I left Pendleton. I am very impressed with my truck.
And power steering boiling over when you pulled in. You may need a remote reservoir added to stop that.
I definitely do.
Quick fix after Fins and Things today. I had to fix the four low in the truck, I had to cut the console shifter hole a little longer. I now have four low.
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So blazer bash was awesome. I met so many cool people. I had a great time and I'll definitely be back. But I need to upgrade some stuff. But truck kicked ass. I need a doubler, 5.13 gears, 35 spline outers, longer brake lines, shorter rear shocks, better seat belts, other stuff and to finish last year's list.
Besides the first day issue with 4 low I think your truck worked great. I think just the 5.13s would do what you need.
For reference i did hells gate with just the Magnum in low/np205 in high and 1st gear in the 4l80e. 4.88s and 37s. Ran all of the other trails with just the 205 in low.
When i was following you I also saw your rear shocks were bottoming out before your axle hit the bump stops. I don't think you need shorter ones but the mounting locations might need to be adjusted. Unless you think you dont need that amount of travel in the back?
For reference i did hells gate with just the Magnum in low/np205 in high and 1st gear in the 4l80e. 4.88s and 37s. Ran all of the other trails with just the 205 in low.
When i was following you I also saw your rear shocks were bottoming out before your axle hit the bump stops. I don't think you need shorter ones but the mounting locations might need to be adjusted. Unless you think you dont need that amount of travel in the back?
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Thank you for the insight! I noticed my rear shock on the driver side has some what come apart. I moved my shock mounts up when I installed the shocks and now I might be regretting it. I just felt when I was going up steep slopes in four low I felt like it needed a lot of throttle and I would like a little more crawl but I think gears before the doubler. I'm going to talk to ord and see what they recommend for shocks. I have a spare shock I can use to replace the broken one if needed.
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I know we were talking about highway and the 5.13s would certainly help you there. While also maybe getting you that extra bit of low end you need when crawling. Cost/effort might be about as much as a doubler but the doubler only helps your crawling... Certainly something to ponder.
Did you say you have 14s all around?
No I have the 12 inch up front and 14 in the back.
Ahh. Darn. Might have to flex it out and measure or something.
I went off their specs but I'm not running stock shock mounts.
A NOS Seat back for the M1008 showed up today. The seat back in my truck is in good condition, so I might save this for when it is not anymore.
We generally like to look at diffs independent of offroad use because T-case gearing is so much more efficient meaning you can get a LOT More reduction for your money in the T-cases. But.... (there's always a but) if it's a truck you drive on the road a lot, you definitely need to gear it to run right. 4.56 and 37s is in the range of OK with the slighly shallower overdrive of the 4L80. We've found that 4.88s/37s comes close to matching the factory 4.10 gear with the stock small tires which is "work truck" gearing more than lighter duty trucks running more highway efficient gears. I personally prefer to match "work truck" gearing since we're basically making these things drive like they have a full load of tools in the bed or a small trailer behind them all the time. And I've found that more RPM is better than less pretty much all the time.
So, for where you're at now: does it go down the highway the way you want it to? I wouldn't look at re-gearing to go to 4.88 unless it's a real problem and 5.13 is a pretty big jump. Appropriate if you think 40s are in the future but if the 4.56s do OK for you on the highway, then T-case gearing is where it's at. Doubler or Magnum. both work and have different efficiency points for different people. Somewhere in here you have to address the engine and if there are any upgrades you have in mind that will change the power curve. Obviously anything to add torque is a bonus. Recent experience with putting heads and a cam on our Wanda truck ('05 GMC2500 6.0L) indicates that you'll want to keep a cam small if you mess with it. We used a 209 intake duration and it's not bad but smaller wouldn't hurt it at all. Real point of all this is that changing power delivery can change hwy gearing needs and if the 4.56s are marginal in any way, doing some engine mods to add torque at cruising rpm might make it work.
And, Moab is pretty forgiving of and in fact often rewards higher gears so it's not really a place that a magnum in all the lows will shine. Tighter trails and/or bigger rocks change the equation a lot. The UA trip we just did in the midwest is a good example. Tight trails with lots of trees and some pretty serious rocks mixed in created a good recipe for using all the low gears. But low-low still wasn't the recipe for all of it. Gotta use the shifters to make the gearing match the problem.
So, for where you're at now: does it go down the highway the way you want it to? I wouldn't look at re-gearing to go to 4.88 unless it's a real problem and 5.13 is a pretty big jump. Appropriate if you think 40s are in the future but if the 4.56s do OK for you on the highway, then T-case gearing is where it's at. Doubler or Magnum. both work and have different efficiency points for different people. Somewhere in here you have to address the engine and if there are any upgrades you have in mind that will change the power curve. Obviously anything to add torque is a bonus. Recent experience with putting heads and a cam on our Wanda truck ('05 GMC2500 6.0L) indicates that you'll want to keep a cam small if you mess with it. We used a 209 intake duration and it's not bad but smaller wouldn't hurt it at all. Real point of all this is that changing power delivery can change hwy gearing needs and if the 4.56s are marginal in any way, doing some engine mods to add torque at cruising rpm might make it work.
And, Moab is pretty forgiving of and in fact often rewards higher gears so it's not really a place that a magnum in all the lows will shine. Tighter trails and/or bigger rocks change the equation a lot. The UA trip we just did in the midwest is a good example. Tight trails with lots of trees and some pretty serious rocks mixed in created a good recipe for using all the low gears. But low-low still wasn't the recipe for all of it. Gotta use the shifters to make the gearing match the problem.
