I know the how's and the do's/don'ts of the conversion - who's actually done it and run them? How long? Street, trail or both? Any problems?
CK5
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Machining DRW hubs to SRW
- Thread starter nvrenuf
- Start date
A member I bought a D60 off of did it without issue. A buddy of his turned them down for him. Said the wall thickness is actually thicker then a stock SRW D60 hub is. You only need to turn it down a certain amount, where as the stock SRW hub is cast with all kinds of unnecessary clearence. For outright hub strength it's the way to go if you know someone who can turn them or if you can find a shop to do them cheap enough. Plus you get a cool machined finish vs a cast finish 
looks tricker 
Corso is the members name. Last active was 3/17/10. He's a registered user, not a member currently but still active on the site if ya want to contact him. One day when I own myown cnc lathe I'm going to make a pair of hubs out of 4130 or 4140 Cromoly or 300M steel just for the hell of it. Uber excessive overkill strength.
looks tricker Corso is the members name. Last active was 3/17/10. He's a registered user, not a member currently but still active on the site if ya want to contact him. One day when I own myown cnc lathe I'm going to make a pair of hubs out of 4130 or 4140 Cromoly or 300M steel just for the hell of it. Uber excessive overkill strength.
Cool. I'm like you I like the thicker machined snout, I'd be the envy of WalMart. 
I have a friend that works at a big machine shop and offered to do it for free.
I have a friend that works at a big machine shop and offered to do it for free.
How much thicker are we talking here on the bearing hub side walls after a DRW is machined down?
Thats the only thing I'm not sure of. Someone would have to do the calculation with both sets of hubs to determine that. I don't have any DRW hubs only SRW. We are talking to clear the rim hole correct??
I can't put a number on the thickness but basically the snout is the same from wms to tip whereas the (pre '89) stocker is tapered slightly.
Edit: I should clarify, it's thicker than the 89-91's also because, while they do not taper, they do step down a little right after the wms.
Edit: I should clarify, it's thicker than the 89-91's also because, while they do not taper, they do step down a little right after the wms.
Thats cool to see the hub so thick that the wheels just barely slide on them.
What is done to the DRW hub for the WMS? I know the DRW has 8 "tabs" where the threaded bolts go thru but without the full round flat surface like the SRW has, what have others done to make a larger contact patch for the rims to ride on?
What is done to the DRW hub for the WMS? I know the DRW has 8 "tabs" where the threaded bolts go thru but without the full round flat surface like the SRW has, what have others done to make a larger contact patch for the rims to ride on?
I don't have a measurement, but as far as rims go, my spare 16.5 fits my srw hubs, but it doesn't fit my friends drw hubs milled down, sucks for him. He had his milled for the rims on his truck pretty exactly and his rims must have a bigger hole in the middle for the hub then stockers, and my spare is a factory rim...
my buddy had a 1/2" ring welded to the rotor tabs then trued for the wms...
I've seen pics where people machined the tabs flat for a wms but that's obviously not strong enough. The bible suggests making a ring out of plate (3/8", I think) to weld on the outside of the tabs to create a wms.
Factory steel Dodge & Ford 8 lug wheels have larger center hole than the Chevy's. Most aftermarket wheels use the larger size hole also.
From the D60 bible on Pirate:
Stock SRW:
Suggested augmentation:
Stock SRW:
Suggested augmentation:
Red X's...
Dammit...linking to PBB pics must not be allowed.
Article here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
Scroll to the very bottom.
Article here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
Scroll to the very bottom.
Right click, save as, then upload them to here.
