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Making some more progress--doubler crossmember PICS!!!!!

SCOOBYDANNN

SCOOBYDANNN

1/2 ton status
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:D Well, i am making some progress on my ScoobyDee. Im 95% happy with the end result of my doubler crossmember but since i used a mucked up piece of my friends cage i shouldnt be complaining. I modified the two existing crossmembers and built around them. (i just used the mounts.) I think i have the cases moved about 3/4" to 1" above stock so I will need to either modify the tranny tunnel or get a 1" body lift. The only thing that hangs down below the frame is the tubing itself, and even then it is about what was hanging down before. the frame rail "bushings" are 1 3/4" tubing capped off w/ 3/8" plate fitted inside the tubing and welded up and smothed out. bolts are 9/16

frame mounts
3214scoobydeecrossmember_016.jpg


underneith (stock CM modded)
3214scoobydeecrossmember_015.jpg


from top
3214scoobydeecrossmember_014.jpg


what hangs down (and a stupid monkey helpin out) :haha:
3214scoobydeecrossmember_012.jpg


from the back
3214scoobydeecrossmember_013.jpg

whatch guys think?

Dan
 
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Looks good! :thumb:

Only concern I have is the two front bars that are just cut off straight and capped. May be potential for hang ups. Why not bend them up some like the rears?
 
Very nice, I like the center bushings. I've been revisiting my cross member design again and again, but can never seem to come up with a design that gives me the clearance I want without hard mounting the case. I like yours much better than what I have now, and the clearance is no worse than what I have now, so I may pay you the "sincerest form of flattery" (i.e. steal your design ;))...
 
steal away---thats what i did, :D i copied one of my friends design. but added some flair. what i like about it is the only thing that hangs down is the pipe, not the cases. once i plate it ill be even better off. floorboards might be an issue, but ill cross that bridge when i get to it. As for ending the front like that----i know, that is why I am 95% happy with it. I built this out of basically scrap and i didnt have enough to finish it off the way i wanted. that and the driveshaft made it relatively difficult tot make it decent. ill see if i cant cover it somehow.
 
Yeah, I would definitely have to modify the front due to my drive shaft and some other ideas I had. But the approach looks really good.
 
BadDog said:
I've been revisiting my cross member design again and again, but can never seem to come up with a design that gives me the clearance I want without hard mounting the case.
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that does seem to be the issue... with bushings at the frame though, is it really a big problem if the cases are hardmounted at the crossmember? Do a lot of people break adapters that way or something?

j
 
I've seen a fair few breaks attributed to that, more so than square shafts which I've been somewhat derided for using. Frame flex, broken motor mounts, and other inputs have to be dealt with somehow. I prefer a stock style central case mount with stiff motor mounts so that it forms a sort of 3 point mount that the frame twist can not put a stress on trans case twisted between the rear mount and the motor. Likewise, a motor mount that gets “soft” (or worse) won’t torque the assembly. But at the same time that rear mount needs to be able to constrain the torque load of the output shaft to prevent twisting loads on the trans housing from that direction. Probably the best compromise (at least in my current opinion) is stiff poly engine mounts, stiff poly trans mounts in the stock location (allows some flex to deal with frame twisting while still pulling up short on torque loads) and hard mounts outboard at the frame. With probably less than 1/8" or so of MAX deflection using bushings out at the frame rails, that translates to almost NO angular flexibility at the case mount, and I just don't think that's a good thing. But, some people seem to get away with it, just like some seem to get away with square shafts. I'm not so fortunate, so I'll go with the design like Scoob...
 
I see what you're saying about the bushings at the frame not allowing as much movement as a centrally-located stock-style bushing. Other than raising the drivetrain up though, how else can one get a completely flat belly?

j
 
I was trying to address that with one of my old designs, but there just was not enough room, so I scrapped it. The post is somewhere in CoG...
 
Hey Matt, got a good source? I've got to revamp my skid to fit better around my links. Did you find a good way to attach it? Doesn't weld very well from what I can tell... ;)
 
Try cutting board material, it glides real easy
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I was definately considering this, but how thick do you need it to support our fat arses. someone i know brought up the fact that it would just crack :dunno: .
 
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