1BadK-30
1/2 ton status
if you dont mind me asking how much did the bed lining run you?
CK5
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Manny's 83 K10 (INDEX)(56K) Manny answers his critics and FALSE ACCUSATIONS
- Thread starter MuddinManny
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1BadK-30
1/2 ton status
did you do the prep work or did the Rhino Lining shop do it?
1BadK-30
1/2 ton status
thanks a bunch manny, really appreciate you answering my questions.
makovai
1/2 ton status
wow, we have somthing in common. This is a couple of pieces i took out of my 5 cylinder SBC 
That is one damn beautiful truck dude. Props to you. 
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
i want to post pics of the small block cam I broke in half
PhilS10HO
Registered Member
When your truck is done it's gonna deserve a spot on the cover of fourwheeler magazine, or the like. 
JpEater
1/2 ton status
MuddinManny said:Okay,
First, I completely rebuilt my 14 Bolt's hubs: bearings, races, seals, rotors and wheel studs. I spared no grease! Setting them aside, I bolted the spacers and brackets on the axle, torquing them the appropriate amount according to the instructions. I had primed and painted the parts earlier in the month with Rustoleum Rust and Black to match the axle, and offer some rust protection. It really looks good. Overall, the first steps were just simple wrenching. The hubs went on without a hitch and the result is my 14 Bolt is well on it's way to having great stopping power. Sweet!
Oh no! You didn't use grease in the 14 bolt hubs did you? They are oil bath bearings! I can't believe no one else has caught that. Why didn't you use an XJ steering shaft for about $10? Its just as good and would have saved you some money.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
i use grease as well
it was really nice here, yet of course i got nothing done haha. well i did go to sears and get a new creeper, hydraulic jack and a new tool box
how much was the pinion guard, and what size yoke are you running? looks good
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
Damn, that pinion guard is THICK!!!!!
But why do you need it?
And chromo 14B axles!
Brother, if you break the stock axles, I will buy you new ones!
But why do you need it?
And chromo 14B axles!
Brother, if you break the stock axles, I will buy you new ones!
JpEater
1/2 ton status
Hey JP,
Okay, thanks for bringing this up. All the manuals say to pack the bearings with bearing grease, which is what I did. After packing the bearings with grease, I prepped the inside of the hub with a good layer of grease, but didn't fill the hub up completely. When I installed the hub, I made sure no grease got into the axle tube because I know that the bearings inside the axle shaft down in the diff are oil lubricated and the grease WILL cause damage. When putting in the axle shafts, I used a coating of silicon gasket maker to seal the axle shaft where it bolts to the hub. I did not notice any holes in the spindle that would allow oil to come out. I wouldn't think gear oil could adequately lube bearings in the hub???
Here are pics of exactly what I did:
The bearings are oil bath bearings not grease packed. Oil bath is much better. The silicone that you put on the axle just seals the outer part of the hub (caps it off so to speak). THe other side of the hub is sealed by that big seal you knocked in with the 2x4 and the BFH. The end of the spindle is not sealed to the axle so that the oil that runs through the carrier bearings runs down the housing and into the hubs to lube the bearings. What I am saying is that there is NO way to stop the oil from getting into your hubs and mixing with the grease and making a sludge like mess in your hubs. Bottom line the grease needs to come out because it is not supposed to be there. Oil only. Just trying to help you out here. Next time you walk by a big rig trailer look at the hub. More than likely you will see a clear sight glass and see that they are oil bath bearings. They run cooler and last longer under heavy loads.
Okay, thanks for bringing this up. All the manuals say to pack the bearings with bearing grease, which is what I did. After packing the bearings with grease, I prepped the inside of the hub with a good layer of grease, but didn't fill the hub up completely. When I installed the hub, I made sure no grease got into the axle tube because I know that the bearings inside the axle shaft down in the diff are oil lubricated and the grease WILL cause damage. When putting in the axle shafts, I used a coating of silicon gasket maker to seal the axle shaft where it bolts to the hub. I did not notice any holes in the spindle that would allow oil to come out. I wouldn't think gear oil could adequately lube bearings in the hub???
Here are pics of exactly what I did:
The bearings are oil bath bearings not grease packed. Oil bath is much better. The silicone that you put on the axle just seals the outer part of the hub (caps it off so to speak). THe other side of the hub is sealed by that big seal you knocked in with the 2x4 and the BFH. The end of the spindle is not sealed to the axle so that the oil that runs through the carrier bearings runs down the housing and into the hubs to lube the bearings. What I am saying is that there is NO way to stop the oil from getting into your hubs and mixing with the grease and making a sludge like mess in your hubs. Bottom line the grease needs to come out because it is not supposed to be there. Oil only. Just trying to help you out here. Next time you walk by a big rig trailer look at the hub. More than likely you will see a clear sight glass and see that they are oil bath bearings. They run cooler and last longer under heavy loads.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
You do not need to redo it. The gear oil from the dif will wash the grease out of the bearings and it will mix with the dif oil. The manual tells you to grease them because oil will not normally get down to the bearings until the axle has spun enough to pic the gear oil up in the ring gear, dump it on the axle shaft and then have it travel down the shaft to the hub bearings. There is NO need to take that axle back apart. ****s looking good by the way
.
Ira
.Ira
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
I agree with Sandawg on this one.sandawgk5 said:You do not need to redo it. The gear oil from the dif will wash the grease out of the bearings and it will mix with the dif oil. The manual tells you to grease them because oil will not normally get down to the bearings until the axle has spun enough to pic the gear oil up in the ring gear, dump it on the axle shaft and then have it travel down the shaft to the hub bearings. There is NO need to take that axle back apart. ****s looking good by the way
Ira
One question though... was that marine grease that you used? Marine grease isn't (supposedly) rated for high temp disk brake use. OTOH, the rear brakes don't get nearly as hot as the fronts, and you will eventually get oil in there, so... you know... it'll probably be ok....
told you ud be fine
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
MaxPF said:
You grease your disk brakes!!!
chevy wrangler
1/2 ton status
i have so much damn envy for this guy!!!
your a cool dude with a damn nice truck!!
your a cool dude with a damn nice truck!!
chevy wrangler
1/2 ton status
he spent $24,055.81 in the past 45 days!! that is commitment right there
So with all this bulletproof stuff, are we going to see a set of Longfields in ur dana 60?, Nice build by the way
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