desertrat67
Hawk Driver
ran a block like that on my crew cab with 38s on it and never had a problem and I was not nice to the truck(ever seen a CC chevy fly off a sand dune? I have, from the inside)
CK5
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Manny's 83 K10 (INDEX)(56K) Manny answers his critics and FALSE ACCUSATIONS
- Thread starter MuddinManny
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SCOOBYDANNN
1/2 ton status
desertrat67 said:
agreed--you should be fine
83 oneton
Registered Member
let get this thing done! i want action shots
mouse
1/2 ton status
Using the blocks and the ORD steering arm, what provides the force on top of the kingpin spring?
the steering arm has a core in it for the king pin
desertrat67
Hawk Driver
Private, don't make me revert to my Drill Sergeant days!!
BKinzey
1/2 ton status
Ok, so after you put on the block, and tightened the studs, what if you welded the bottom of it on? Wouldn't be as strong as if the whole thing were one piece but would certainly help if the studs had a tendency to loosen?
Or is that a whacked idea
Or is that a whacked idea
the last thing you want to do it weld to cast. It is more involved then welding regular steel.
Manny, Back to the brakes. I can not envision what you are describing. the standard hoses attach to stainless hoses that attach to the hard line on the frame? or are you using a dodge 60 where the hard line is on the axle.
One piece braided stainless lines from the caliper to the hard line on the frame is the way to go. the lines have a lesser tendency to swell under pressure then a standard rubber line. stronger against crap hidden in the mud too.
Manny, Back to the brakes. I can not envision what you are describing. the standard hoses attach to stainless hoses that attach to the hard line on the frame?
or are you using a dodge 60 where the hard line is on the axle. One piece braided stainless lines from the caliper to the hard line on the frame is the way to go. the lines have a lesser tendency to swell under pressure then a standard rubber line. stronger against crap hidden in the mud too.
MuddinManny said:
I know that when I switched from a 44 to a 60 the ends for the calipers are not the same.
you can make them work cause the hole in the 44 lines are bigger then the 60, but the right way is to get new lines.josh78gmc
Registered Member
id just go with the stainless. its the best way to go, in my opinion.
josh78gmc
Registered Member
hey, did i tell you about the '75 long bed some guy wants to sell me for $900?
muddyblzr
1/2 ton status
MuddinManny said:
ya id just hate to see a day of wheeling get cut short because of some crappy brake lines. theres a vendor on here that makes them custom length for anything and can come in colors.
TheSunDanceKid
Registered Member
any one else kinda interested in what the camera that took these pictures is going to look like when this build is done......
desertrat67
Hawk Driver
Thougth more about the truck than my drawers! The dam thing wstall enough my front tires hit the base of the dune, while my rears left holes half way down. Scared the crap out of me launching that boat!
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Manny,
Not that I'm trying to slow you down (no pun intended ).....but here's another idea for your front brakes:
Use a conventional length set of brake lines off the calipers, but instead of running them up to the master cylinder directly, run them to a custom-bent hardline setup on the axle (Kind of like the 14BFF has). That way you can run both sides to a single "T" fitting and then run ONE extended line from the center of the pumpkin (roughly) up to the MC.
The benefit of this setup is that you don't have big "loops" of flexible brake line near each wheel to worry about snagging on your tires when you start wailing through a mud pit and sawing that wheel back and forth. The center-mounted line will be the one that allows for suspension travel instead....and is protected from harm much better.....
Something to think about. It's a setup I will eventually convert to on my D60. BTW -> Did I ever tell you I am a mudbog expert? HAHAHAHAHA
Not that I'm trying to slow you down (no pun intended
).....but here's another idea for your front brakes:Use a conventional length set of brake lines off the calipers, but instead of running them up to the master cylinder directly, run them to a custom-bent hardline setup on the axle (Kind of like the 14BFF has). That way you can run both sides to a single "T" fitting and then run ONE extended line from the center of the pumpkin (roughly) up to the MC.
The benefit of this setup is that you don't have big "loops" of flexible brake line near each wheel to worry about snagging on your tires when you start wailing through a mud pit and sawing that wheel back and forth. The center-mounted line will be the one that allows for suspension travel instead....and is protected from harm much better.....
Something to think about. It's a setup I will eventually convert to on my D60. BTW -> Did I ever tell you I am a mudbog expert? HAHAHAHAHA
desertrat67
Hawk Driver
Manny, you wer trying for a confer truss for the 14 bolt, but have you seen Kerts stuff at DIY4X? he has an over the axle truss for the 14 bolt.
www.diy4x.com
www.diy4x.com
muddyblzr
1/2 ton status
what underside protection do you think you need? nothing is going thorugh those tubes. get an over the top the under the axle will make you lose even more ground clearance
the setup that greg is talking about is exactly how dodge does it. FOR MUD has it that way on his axle. I have never had the stainless lines on mine snag on anything.
NEK5
3/4 ton status
stainless definitely seems like the way to go.
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