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Manny's 83 K10 (INDEX)(56K) Manny answers his critics and FALSE ACCUSATIONS

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I love this thread. :saweet:

There's been some nice weather lately in Cali (mid 60's), so tomorrow I'm gonna go and re-torque all my suspension parts and do some further inspections/repairs where necessary. Good job on the D60 so far, and I can only expect it to get better in the coming days. :thumb:
 
MuddinManny said:
Walla2K5, Ryoken, HarryH3, Brocky, 76Zimmer and FOR MUD,

Thank you with all my heart for the kind words and support. It's guys like you that help keep this project going with such enthusiasm. I really appreciate your constructive criticism and tips! This truck is a part of all of us!
Manny
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Ok I'll take the engine then....:haha:
 
ryoken said:
Hey Manny....

Anything to help.. :D

Well, you could check your local auto parts, but thats a 50/50 shot if they'll have zinc chromate... Any bodyshop supply or marine store will have it...

It is available in 2 part sprayable too at any body supply place.. Little superior quality to the rattle cans, but the spray bombs are fine...

Also for top primers, epoxy will always be superior to any enamel...

If you have ANY questions on anything like this, shoot me a PM... :wink1:
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Better yet, if you guys don't mind post it up here to help everyone out.
:bow:
 
Manny having not replaced these slingers myself, I wonder if a piece of thick walled pipe long enough to go over the axle shaft would be a suitable driving device to seat this slinger? And possibly weld a piece of flat stock onto the end of the pipe for hammer blows. Whadda ya think?
 
You might have mentioned this before, but what kind of grease are you using? I think it looks like marine grease, but I want to be sure.
 
Chevy305 said:
You might have mentioned this before, but what kind of grease are you using? I think it looks like marine grease, but I want to be sure.
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X2, I also thought it was marine grease...
 
I can't believe no one caught this yet. The RTV between the knuckle and block, and between the block and steering arm are a mistake. The mating surfaces there need to be clean, and bare. The steering arm/block are clamped by the studs to create friction in the mating surfaces. It is this friction that keeps the arm from twisting on the knuckle. With the RTV in there, you are counting on the 4 studs to take all of the steering load. Its a recipe for steering disaster. Please take it apart and clean the surfaces and reassemble without RTV on any of those surfaces. Like you said before in this thread, fix it now or fix it later. Unfortunately in this case, later follows a potential careening ride off the side of the freeway when the steering failed.

If you're concerned about leaking, these machined surfaces, when mated together and clamped under the kind of force applied by the studs, WON'T leak.

I really don't want you to feel bad about this, the work you've done so far is much beyond my own attention to detail (or quality, I just replace stuff when it gets wet), but this is a serious safety issue.
 
I don't know why they would suggest sealer. and even if you end up deciding to use it, use VERY little. What you have down would spread out and cover almost the entire surface.
 
Ya its fine I have been running RTV under my bare steel arm and knuckles and have not had any slippage or failure. I too actually read the instructions when it comes to the K5:D.

Ira
 
grateful for my concern? is that why you called me dirt?

I'm just kidding around, you either misread my name, or just typed dirt because you type that word much more often than drip =)
 
As for why the rtv can be a problem. The studs are there to provide clamping force. they squeeze the two machined faces together, creating lots of frction. it's this friction that holes the arm in place. Put your two hands together gently, and twist. Push them together hard, and twist. The difference is easy to see. Now put grease between them, and no matter how hard you push them together, its easy to twist.

The conical washers are there to force the arm to move to a position where the each stud is perfectly centered in its hole. It actually prevents the block/arm from touching the stud. If the arm twists enough to push against the side of the stud, it takes a relatively small low to cut the stud. With the stud perfectly centered in the hole, there is a small allowance for the arm to flex (the material does flex, if only a tiny amount) without touching the stud, and weakening it by adding a shear load.
 
Yes, if the arm move in relation to the block, or the block in relation to the knuckle, it can cut the stud. This would be 'shearing' the stud (which is why loading a fastener in this way is called shear). When you tighten the nuts down, everything will move to where it needs to be. Its not critical that the studs not touch the sides of the holes at all, more that the arm is straight. Without the rtv, I would not question what you've done at all. As far as being a waste of time, the difference in driveability, even on road, is incredible with crossover. Offroad, you can't even begin to compare crossover to stock
 
MuddinManny said:
Okay, I understand the RTV explanation. I agree, but I know that the RTV amount I used did not disperse across the entire knuckle/block surface or the block/steering arm surface, so friction is still there. Maybe not as much as should be. I understand your example and have concern for safety.

As far as the studs, I understand everything you said, except that if the arm moves it'll take a small load to "cut" the stud? You mean that the block or steering arm would actually snap the stud or cut it? I also have a concern because right now the sides of the block and steering arm are touching the studs. I don't have the nuts torqued down yet so that may change, but I'm really beginning to think and feel this crossover is a waste of time and a headache.

Manny
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I have had a great deal of force on my studs and have not had any damage. If you keep the nuts torqued to spec there is no problem. The factory had a paper gasket under the steering arm so a little RTV aint gonna hurt anything. There a slight imperfections in the knuckle and the arm, the RTV is to take up these imperfections and keep the grease from leaking out per se. When you take the arm off you will see just how little RTV is left in there.

Ira
 
The only thing I'm concerned about after seeing the photos is the thread engagement of those upper steering nuts on the steering arm studs....

It doesn't look like they even go all the way through the nuts??....or is there something funny with the pics??

Ideally you'd like at least a few complete threads showing once the nut is fully torqued down, and from those photos it looks like you are a few threads shy of even being flush with the end of the nut??? :dunno:
 
Not to be overly picky or anything, but... You might wanna tighten those nuts down with a tool.. 110 is a good amount.. I'd tighten em down to a nice 60 to 80lbs with the old "feel" torque wrench aka bicep.. then go the rest when you get the torque wrench...

The reason being, with the rtv in there, you haven't "crushed" it all the way by just tightenin by hand.... it will "setup" then when you go to tighten the rest of the way, it will have formed itself into a thicker "gasket" at that point... creating more issues with the whole shear issue...

Just a thought... Tho at this point, it's probably too late anyway...
 
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x3 on the rtv setting up.

on another note. your outer shafts should have the ability to take full circle retaining clips. the reason people tack weld their caps on is because the c-clips tend to come off from hard use. the tack welds keep the cap from backing out of the axle. a full circle retaining clip will hold the caps on much better. you may only be able to use them on the outers, but that is better then not at all.

as for the u-joint that you are replacing. you only need to replace the part you broke. there is no need to take the whole assembly apart. just press out the offending cap and install the new dust shield. press the cap back in. keep the new joint for a spare. If you blow one up chances are at least one of the dust caps will survive.
 
MuddinManny said:
...There is no gap between the knuckle top and block, and block to steering arm...
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That being the case, we still don't see any threads sticking up past the nuts as pointed out above. Is that a camera trick / photo from before it was tightened all the way?

Not busting chops, just making sure the new edition of the D60 bible is complete & accurate. :D:D
 
Good to hear Manny...

I went back and took another peak at the pics, and yeah the surfaces do look mated well. Not to be redundent, but as the others pointed out, the studs appear short, couple threads shy of the top of the nut? Might wanna check into that before reassembly if thats the case...
 
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