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Manny's 83 K10 (INDEX)(56K) Manny answers his critics and FALSE ACCUSATIONS

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So sorry to hear that man, hope it's not something bad. This is why men don't like going to the doctor; we always hear the bad news (high cholesterol, prostate, tumor, cancer, yada yada).
 
wow sorry to hear that. hope it all works out for you. but then again that is awesome news about the engine.

betcha cant wait to hop up in there and take er for a spin
 
You can run a spicer life series joint without that plastic thing without a problem. The only real purpose that ring serves is to keep the cap stuck onto the cross. That plastic thing is the reason its kinda hard to get the cap off the Spicer Life series joints. Been workin for HAD quite a bit...those things crack and break prolly 25% of the time on install. The real seal is under that plastic thing, around the inside of the cap. Thats why life series caps are taller than the greasable caps. Much better seal system to offset the non-greasable nature of the joint. You'll see it if you look closely. That plastic thing is isn't crucial. No need to buy a whole new joint.

And you can use a cap from another joint with no problems as long as its a new cap. This assumes you are working with the same size and brand of joints. Also, say you drop a cap and loose the needle bearings on the floor and all you have is a few old caps with some bearings left in them. You can use needle bearings from another identical cap to rebuild the one you dropped.

Another important bit of ujoint trivia..See that little black plastic disc at the bottom of the cap in Manny's pic? That thing is very important...Make sure that it's there and hasn't fallen off during install. Sometimes they stick on the end of the cross when you pull the cap off. Something to pay attention to. If that thing gets lost, the will develope endplay...which is bad. :haha:
 
manny you know im pullin your leg. sorry to hear that bro. as long as you get it all together by this summer so u can pull me out when i get stuck we are good :)
 
Question though...

What kind of exhaust are you running on it?
Also What clutch are you using?
 
man what i think kidjethro is saying is that the plastic thing is just there to help keep the cap from falling off the joint. its not there for a seal. the real seal is inside the cap. so you should be fine wihtout the plastic piece you broke.
 
MuddinManny said:
Hey Chevy,

Exhaust: Doug Thorley Headers dumping into 2.5" straight pipe all the way back, through Flowmaster 40 series. True Dual Exhaust. NO BS SMOG CRAP! Truck is exempt. Over 24 years old.

Clutch: Centerforce Dual Friction w/HD Centerforce Throw-out Bearing and new clutch fork.

I can't wait to hear what it sounds like. I know the CF can hold that HP/Torque too!

Manny
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Nice! Should sound wicked sweet!
 
Man, your engine sounds alot like mine. I have a fully balanced 383 with coated Speed-pro flat top pistons and GM big valve heads with a 9.5:1 compression ratio. I have a mild CompCams camshaft too. I am using the Thorley headers as well, through 2.5 in pipe and flowmaster 50 series mufflers. I love the coated headers. You would have run into another problem with the long compressor too, namely the rear bracket that bolted to the stock exhaust manifold. The stock bracket won't work with the headers.
 
muddyblzr said:
man what i think kidjethro is saying is that the plastic thing is just there to help keep the cap from falling off the joint. its not there for a seal. the real seal is inside the cap. so you should be fine wihtout the plastic piece you broke.
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Yep. muddyblzr called it.

Take another look at that cap. If you look just inside the cap, under the black plastic thing and just above the tops of the needle bearings you can see the seal. It has 3 (i think) little rubber ridges in it. Hard to miss. No conventional ujoint seals crap out better than a Spicer life. Every Ford Superduty uses 1410 SPLS joints in the driveshaft from the factory. Same with the 2500 Dodge rams. I think the D80 equiped trucks use a 1480 at the diff?

Anyways, back to the seal thing. If you notice when you push the cap onto the cross with an intact plastic thing, it will "click" into place and stay there. Usually requiring some sort of tool (needle nose pliears work well) to pop it back off again. The plastic ring locks the cap to the cross. Now take your cap with the broken plastic ring and push it onto the cross. No click and it'll prolly push itself back off the cross slightly just from airtight seal created. :wink1:
 
manny, you 2.5" is going to be enough for it to breathe enough? i know you want some back pressure, but with 500+hp i would think dual 3" would be a definite
 
muddybuddy said:
manny, you 2.5" is going to be enough for it to breathe enough? i know you want some back pressure, but with 500+hp i would think dual 3" would be a definite
Click to expand...

Local exhaust shop told me that 3" of exhaust is fine for 400hp. If thats true, he should be covered.


Your motor sounds pretty good man, I just had a 383 built but I went with lower compression so I could run 89 octane (and use a power adder later). :D
 
txcol_sanders said:
Local exhaust shop told me that 3" of exhaust is fine for 400hp. If thats true, he should be covered.
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I'm not sure I understand, he has got like 538hp or soomething rediculous like that, so wouldn't he need a larger than 3" pipe?

Manny I would definately run 3" duals on there. You WILL see more power over the 2.5" setup because your engine needs to breathe, and breathe deep!
 
He was saying that 400 hp is good with a single 3" pipe. Dual 2.5 inch pipe is quite a bit larger in airflow area than a single 3". I think that the dual 2.5 is what he needs. Its a truck, if he goes too big on the pipe he will lose out down low. I know mudding is all about screaming down the pit, but that's not all the truck will be used for.
 
MuddinManny said:
Hey Seafarer,

Cool beans to your 383. We are very similar. To the best of my knowledge:
  • 11:1 compression ratio
  • 4 bolt main
  • 4340 Forged Chromoly Crank
  • Flat top forged pistons
  • CompCam
  • Dart Pro Series I Aluminum heads
  • Hydraulic Roller lifters and self adjusting rockers
  • Titanium sleeves
  • Edelbrock 7501 intake
  • Edelbrock 4249 Polished Tall Valve Covers
  • Edelbrock 8811 Hi Output Long Neck Water Pump
  • MSD Pro Billet HEI Distributor
  • MSD 8.0 Wires
  • Holley 850 CFM 4 Barrel Carb w/80 jets
  • Doug Thorley Cermaic Headers
  • Flowmaster 2.5" pipes w/dual 40 Series II mufflers
I know there is much more, but Mr. Janke is keeping that secretive. All I know is that this stroker is one bad mamma jamma heart beat.

As far as the A/C goes, I did get the A/C bracket that works with the headers to allow installation. Now I have to work with the situation to have new brackets fabricated!

I'm just gonna hafta see what this truck does. Hopefully I don't get too happy with the feet!

Manny
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Manny what are the Titanium sleeves in?
And are those self aligning rockers?

Sounds like a bad beast.....keep em coming?
 
76zimmer said:
Wicked.....sounds like a Maineiac talking :haha: :haha: :haha:
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Come on thats hittin below the belt! :haha:
Guys from here that listen to 105.7 WROR you know what I'm talking about (Men From Maine)... :bow: :haha: :bow: :haha: :bow: :haha:



But on the bright side, at least I don't say "eh" all the time like our Northern cousins. :haha: :haha:
 
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